Endless Sphere

The unfortunate side effect is scumbags will be stealing bike batteries just for the recycle money

It actually looks way safer than a small wheel scooter going that speed!

I was also thinking you could mould one out of some kind of epoxy while the brake is off the bike but you got it covered

Yes... Using a cheap generic one not made of tool steel is good.

Passing the magnets induces an electric current, that's where the heat is coming from. If it was just a stationary magnetic pull, it wouldn't be heating, it's the moving a conductor thru a magnetic field Faraday thing.

Hummina Shadeeba wrote: ↑

Oct 24 2019 3:32pm

Low cogging yet bad on knees I don’t understand.


If it’s drag, a magnetic drag, where is the energy going exactly? Call it whatever u want but where is the energy going

The energy is going into heat... As the iron rotates thru the alternating magnet fields it's slowly getting hotter.

The cogging feel of spinning a motor shaft by hand is deceptive. You feel the resistance as it builds to hopping towards the next magnet, but it's easy to miss the force it would take to slowly ease it to the next neutral point, instead of just letting it jump there. They balance each other out. On ...

No, it was a little different, but same basic idea... Or a different iteration of it from the same company.

Yes... The whole 36v, 48v, and 52v thing is the mid point voltage of a pack, which is why people sometimes call them by the series number... A normalish lithium cell is 3.6v halfway charged, and 4.2v fully charged. So a so called 36v battery is 10 groups in series, so 42v fully charged. 48v is 13s, ...

There's hardly anything that's lighter and more efficient than a single stage reduction with belt or chain. Unless you have special space configuration issues, or need to slave multiple motors together, it's not worth the weight and efficiency hits. Most non crank drive, non friction rc drives basic...

Damn DAND! That sucks!

If some are higher than 4.2v, then the BMS isn't working right, as keeping groups from going over 4.2v is one of it's main functions.

That's another way of saying record your results somehow... So in a year or two you can look back and compare to get a rate of decline in function of the pack over time.

But 36v nominal packs aren't 12s... they're 10s? And if you want that voltage you mention, why bring up 10s since its not a 36v pack you're describing any more?

Huh?

Pretty sure most packs designed for 36V are 12S, to support 43 - 44V in use, charge at 49 - 50.4Vch max. No, its pretty standard that going by the mid point cell voltage, 3.6v, that 36v packs are 10s, 48vpacks are 13s, and 52v packs are 14s. And if you charge a 36v nominal, 10s pack to 50v instead ...

The ratings aren't a direct indicator of how much you will get, as it changes with the discharge rate. What that is saying is it holds roughly 2.2ah, if you take the electricity out at .2 c discharge rate. It doesn't mean it you put 10 together for 22ah that you can pull 22 amps out for an hour. Its...

The heat build up goes with the watts... running higher volts, but lower amps for the same power can reduce overheating.

Exactly... I wouldn't go that low on voltage on a 10s though.

I think you can run it on the charger also and see how much you're putting in...

You can buy RC wattmeters pretty cheap that will log how much actual watthours you're getting out of a pack...

Using 5 amps isn't the same thing as amp hours... .

Re the one picture, I think they're actually uninsulated solid copper wire, not solder. But yes, that's some big blobs all over.

These are plucked from the sphere, so sorry if I don't give proper name credit. The first one shows basically what you're talking about... A single row of cells, paralleled together, then hooked to the next row. 25r_welds.jpg The same kind of thing, but soldered, with the red lines showing where som...

If the battery is actually putting out voltage, you can usually probe the hall wire plug, and the throttle, and see if they're getting voltage to see if the controller is alive. Pictures help... Without seeing the plugs it's harder to tell you what to poke.

Re the motor voltage, most systems are designed to run at a legal speed somewhere, so the 36v is wound to come out at roughly that speed. A 48v is wound for less rpms per volt, so it goes the same roughly legal top speed. It won't damage them changing voltage... It just changes the speed they were d...

Yes, and big company systems like that are just that...a system, and built for manufacturing efficiency, so every wire and every connector is built just as big as it needs to be. If you up the power thru the software, then maybe your main battery connector melts a little. Then you beef that up, and ...