Endless Sphere

remember not to swap around the red and black hall sensor wires (+and-)- only the blue yellow and green. otherwise youll be replacing the halls in your motor. there is an algorithm here on ES somewhere to find the best combination in the least moves- easy to google as well.

I find that by the time I've welded, fitted balance wires, insulated and packaged my battery, it's usually wider than 70mm.

I hope EG hasn't left the forum, I think some stuff went down late last year.
This was a great little how to thread for basic modding of bms's with some really good pics.

Out of production now but the adaptto controllers had the ability you are after. You can set all the parameters for power, Regen, charge voltage termination (say 80%soc) and then Max allowable voltage (for Regen). Super helpful for me as I live on a hill and Regen after about 5mts of riding for a bo...

Well hopefully I can be more helpful. I assume you are turning the wheel in your video, or is it powered and your using the throttle (best is slowly by hand). The idea is that each hall led will turn on as a magnet passes over the sensor indicating it is working. From the video it appears that green...

These are shit bikes in many ways including major flaws in the frame... Do yourself a favour and steer clear. Plus any a2b parts are pretty much non existent. They handle like crap at speed. lots of annoying intracies

I'd definitely be thinking dd hubby for efficiency, quietness and extreme reliability. I've done <8k Kms on several of mine (9c, lellie )and never touched them once. I love regen (hills), but it might not be an issue for you. 9c is a great choice for a basic hub. 8turn in a 26" wheel will get y...

Thanks AW for the extra info. The terminology gets confusing. The supply I used to test them was a single cell 18650, hence not the 5v.
I've ordered some ss41s now... Just have to wait for them to arrive.

Damn! I missed that spec, thanks for picking that up e-beach. I haven't measured the controller voltage but I assumed it was ~5v. I would be pretty confident that that is the issue....sigh, now to get that epoxy off
Cheers

Hi all I'm having a little trouble with a repair on a friend's Mac motor. He crashed on the motor cable exit side, munched his cables and blew the halls. The controller is fine (tested on another motor). I've pulled new cable though (what a bitch!) and squared that all away no probs. To order halls ...

Bms's are rated by 3 factors
Chemistry
No. of series groups
Max and continuous amp limit
Chose one that suits your needs based on this.
Give yourself 50-100% headroom on amp limit as its usually overrated.
Without details on your specific needs this is all I can give you.

Here a section of a weld I did on it a while ago. We (my son mostly :lol: ) smashed it up with a mallet, and had a look at its composition. In this section the weld is the lighter top most metal and a few mm below is the base metal. This one didn't fail like the one in question (well until the malle...

It hard to get a reasonable pic of it... Looks like rubbish on screen.
I guess it's probably as discussed, an unfixable failure. Good thing it's only a cheap vice but annoying that it's now useless. Mostly I fix stuff and use till its final death.

Hey MM
Did you sell this?

Hi For the welders or metallurgists out there, can someone explain to me what process causes this. I welded up a repair in my sons cheap vice that looked like cast iron judging but the grainy structure of the metal. The section for the weld was about 5mm thick and was the extension arm near the head...

FYI they look like KT parts (not made by gazelle), if you need replacement electricals (controller, display etc) you will probably be able to get them cheap off aliexpress or ebay.

Ha I knew that was going to trip me up.... Haven't used the simulator for s while....but I have never noticed that option. Thanks for pointing it out. If I plugin enough reduction to keep speed down to 3kph on a small hub it never overheats even on 25deg with zero human power and 100kg. OP should be...

hey kale A friend of mine built an e-barrow. He used a 250w unite motor (one with a built in 9:1 reduction) then reduced it further 4:1 using chain and sprockets. it was just a brushed motor and he didn't bother even putting a controller on it- just a hefty on/off switch (actually I think it was two...

That's awesome! What are the specs on it? Great video too, loved the time-lapse.

That's where the DIY bit comes in... I would build a battery housing to fit your frame first utilising highly sophisticated CAD (cardboard aided design) then fit your battery to the interior of the space you have left. Don't forget to include space for padding, insulation, wires and bms. Don't make ...

Has anyone repacked a vax battery?i just picked up a vax slimstick cheap, I'm thinking of putting some 3.5ah cells in it, replacing the old 2ah ones it currently has. Hoping there are no nasty surprises like the bms locking out when I pull the cells.

Gross! But effective I imagine.
I bent a few around into a carabiner shape using the neck as the catch. Works quite well for light loads ~1-2 kg
Great thread!

Or look at the nickel over copper technique. 0.1 of both is easy as pie and gives you .5mm equivalent in nickel alone. I tthinkthe topic is covered in the spot welding copper thread.

Well to put some positvity into the thread.... I recently did a trip with 120w of (2x60w) panels that you could have put on a bike trailer no problem at all. I was using a lifpo4 4s 30ah battery and charging via a sla solar regulator and with bms. I was able to charge at 5amps and so it was only 6hr...

Hate you add more bad news to your build EG, but I built up that exact frame and can add a few more draw backs. The front forks are shit... They look nice with a low friction coating but are dirt cheap inside with only a spring and no dampening. They are also manufactured with not enough rake so the...