Idler wheel for cyclone mid drive kit?

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Jun 20, 2015
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idler wheel.JPGMy aluminum idler wheel didn't last very long [on my cyclone3000 kit], But it was so nice to have to work on it in the cold, wet mud and greasey christmas afternoon. I need a stainless steel chain idler wheel 4cm with 11 tooth [sprockets]

Does ceramic disintegrate when stressed? [If they are made with air holes they will] Or do they use some kind of super ceramic formula. I suppose I will have to waste money finding the answer to that.
 
Had problems myself with the idler pulley on a C4K, I just made the chain as tight as I could without an idler pulley.
On a side note, is it easy to change the LVC on the Cyclones?
Which reminds me I gotta get mine running again, crank arm problems, need new crank set.
 
Its not my daily, and havent ridden it much at all really. From the crank to the motor, I used a KMC 1 speed chain, and shimmied the motor by placing a hockey puck between the motor and the frame, seemed like a good fit in terms of the slack the chain had.

For long term, you will want better advice, then my couple months of riding a year or two ago.
 
I think the best way to adjust the motor mount to take up the slack in the chain would be to pivot the mounting from a different place [on both sides], under the crank .

I would rather pay 25$ for an aluminum idler. Or just wait for warm weather before making the idler roller fit. When the chain comes off I can pull the folding arm down to refit the chain onto the idler and other sprockets.
 
This guy did not use a tensioner
http://sapinski.com/2013/11/13/4500w-mid-drive-electric-bike/
I do remember doing that, and the chain did skip off the teeth, so the chain needs to be more wrapped around the small motor gear. But its worth giving it a go with a taught chain, a 44T to a 13T or 14T motor gear maybe fine, could even work with a 42T/14T.
Mine was 44T/13T with slack on the chain, and the pathetic stock tensioner and mine skipped. Taking the tensioner out, and giving the taught chain enough tension with no tensioner should work, its a matter of how taught you make it, and over time the chain will lengthen.

This is a guide from Luna
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/motors-and-kits/cyclone-3000w/55135-cyclone-documentation?p=62884#post62884

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Modified-Parts-Adjuster-Chain-Tensioner-Optimizes-Accessories-Tool/292854020538?epid=0&hash=item442f75b9ba:g:SvoAAOSw6iZcCnG7


Lots of mounting holes, for custom plates, or whatever, around frame, onto motor, whatever.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Motorcycle-Golden-Aluminum-Adjuster-Chain-Tensioner-Bolt-On-Roller-Tool/122450786549?epid=2168661485&hash=item1c82a2b8f5:g:41YAAOSwVm5Y9LcO
 
rebuild cheap idler.JPG

Now I need to get serious about finding a hard steel idler and ball bearing to fit. I found one on amazon but they drilled the hole to the wrong size. 5/8th inch OD [sold as a motor bearing] is 15.9mm OD. Oh sure just drill out the sprocket to 16.01" if I could afford such a large bit.
That one on MB is obviously aluminum or cheap zinc plated steel.

Does any one know where to buy REAL sprockets and bearing?

Luna stopped selling the cyclone because of the problems....?

NOT finding the right one. I need a 5mm bolt hole.
and if the pitch is 3/8th inch it will not fit the chain. half inch chain can use a 13mm pitch but not 3/8th =9.5mm

Sprocket 10 Tooth C Type, 40/41/420 Chain, 5/8 Bore, 3/16″ Keyway,
idler sprocket 3.jpg
 
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