Making a DIY half-face respirator when stores are sold out

spinningmagnets

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This thread is about the engineering challenges of making a reasonably effective DIY respirator. All responses that do not specifically address that will be considered "off topic" and they will be moved to an appropriate thread.

With the shortage of N95 "disposable" dust masks, I feel that the best way forward is to identify ways to make an effective respirator that can be sterilized and re-used, along with a readily available filter media that can be replaced as often as necessary.

A "mask" catches your cough and sneeze to help reduce the probability that you might infect the people that are near you when you have some type of flu. A "half-face respirator" covers your mouth and nose to prevent you from breathing-in a mist from a nearby person who has coughed or sneezed.

The top pic (below) is the now-famous "N95" mask, and the bottom pic is a half-face respirator. Notice the metal strip across the nose-bridge to help hold the shape of the filter to your face in that area.

screen-shot-2020-03-21-at-115636-am.webp


510hhBYkDhL._AC_SX466_.jpg


As a woodworking enthusiast, I have occasionally used a "dust mask" to avoid breathing in fine sawdust that was floating in the air (table saw, router, etc), and I found them to be grossly inadequate, especially if I was suddenly required to talk, which flexes the "barely adequate" seal around my face. It may "catch" my own cough, but as far as breathing-in the air near me, it was less effective than holding my breath for half a minute.

I am not a certified medical professional, but I have worked for many years in the past with a "hazardous waste" clean-up company, and I was required on many occasions to work while wearing a respirator.

A popular alternative DIY filter media for a viral breakout is the "HEPA" filters for home air-conditioning units, or HEPA vacuum cleaner bags (HEPA = High Efficiency Particulate Air). Be aware if you are using a common dust mask, a HEPA filter of the same size will be somewhat restrictive to flow the same amount of air, due to how dense it is, in order to capture smaller particles. For a HEPA filter to flow the same amount of air, it should have more surface area.

I like cylindrical bottles for the filter housing because the filter media can be held on by a common "hose clamp". In order to provide a stiffer place for the hose clamp to tighten against, I am showing a white disc with holes that I cut out from an HDPE kitchen cutting board. It drills and cuts with a jigsaw quite easily. Another method shown here is the red plastic sheet that was cut into a ribbon from the lid of a common plastic storage bin. Either one of these reinforcements can be epoxied-inside the bottle. Large hose clamps can be found in the large hardware stores in the sections where a clothes dryer vent is socked, or the central air conditioning duct section. Or, you can connect two hose clamps to each other to make a larger one.

The bottle can be cut shorter to make the filter housing more compact, or the extra length can be filled with activated charcoal from an aquarium supply. If you add charcoal, wrap it in a paper towel to prevent breathing-in any charcoal dust. The standard water-bottle cap opening is adequate to breathe through, and a single filter is adequate for a trip to the grocery store. The common industrial OSHA respirators (shown at the top of the post) have two filters because they must be able to operate for a 12 hour shift without becoming clogged.

Respirator1.jpg

On the left is a common 9-ounce water bottle for scale, next is a slightly fatter "one liter" beverage bottle (with filter media attached), then a half-gallon vinegar bottle I had that is 4-1/2 inches in diameter, and last is a one-gallon jug of chlorine bleach, 6-inches in diameter. I found the soda bottle with the paper filter on it easy enough to breath through, but the half-gallon jug would provide double the filter area if that was desired.

Respirator2.jpg

The entire premise of this build is that it's not ideal to be depending on disposable masks that make a poor fit, and you must constantly be looking for an additional supply. If you make a respirator that is formed to fit your particular face, it will fit well. Then, use a filter media that is readily stocked and easily found, along with being very affordable. HEPA vacuum bags are such a filter material, along with the filters from central air conditioning units.

Respirator3.jpg

The video I am linking to here is a useful starting point, even though I feel that there is significant room for improvement. Be aware that the bottle in this video is a THREE-liter size.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QODJN3UHluA

[youtube]QODJN3UHluA[/youtube]

The filter media (sheet of HEPA filter paper) can be thrown away. The respirator itself can be sterilized by wiping it down with alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, or heating it to a minimum of 140F / 60C for 30 minutes. Higher temps will reliably kill all pathogens in a shorter time, but higher temps may also damage the respirator depending on the materials used to make it. It can also be exposed to ultraviolet light (UV).

If you are fortunate enough to have acquired a factory-made half-face respirator that fits you well, do not throw away the filter cannisters after they have been used up to the allotted amount of time. They can be gutted and then covered with new filter media made from HEPA filter cloth.
 
Making the face-cup

One option, a semi-rigid flexible and heat-shapable plastic/rubber (Polycaprolactone)...You make a mould (or 3D-print) of the shape you want, you put a measured amount of this plastic into boiling water to soften it, then press it into the mould.

Found here https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-M...d=1&keywords=instamorph&qid=1585610581&sr=8-1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3wA323FD6M

[youtube]O3wA323FD6M[/youtube]

There are now dozens of youtubes about making a DIY respirator, and the most often used candidate is the top or bottom of a plastic 2-liter soda bottle.

Respirator4.jpg

In order to form the shape around the nose, a strip of thin steel sheetmetal is glued onto the outside of the nose area. This type of thin steel sheetmetal can be easily found in the roofing repair section as "flashing". It can be cut with heavy scissors, metal-cutting shears, or a hacksaw (the file the edge smooth).

I received a tip, you might find a "full face snorkel mask" at a sporting goods store, or online. There are now several youtubes

head-sea-vision-full-face-mask.jpg
 
Options for the seal between the face-cup and your face

Here is one option for the seal between a rigid 3D-printed mask and your face that I found to be useful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_VGrbBqprY

[youtube]-_VGrbBqprY[/youtube]

Silicone caulk can be spread into a ribbon on a glass window or table, and once allowed to dry, it forms a rubber ribbon that can have one edge glued into the seal-edge of DIY respirator. spreading it on glass means that it can be easily removed by a wide razor blade.

An Idea I like is to cut a foam ribbon to make the seal between the respirator face-cup and your face, but the foam may the the type that is porous enough it can allow contaminated air through to the inside. I would take the foam and coat it with a thin smear of silicone. Silicone can be sterilized by wiping it with alcohol, or heating it to "just above" the temperature where a virus would be killed. Of course if you get the DIY respirator too hot, it would damage the type of plastics that are commonly used.
 
Powered air purifying respirators / PAPR's.

I have used PAPR's and having air pumped to my face instead of me having to pull air through the HEPA filter with my lungs can be exhausting over two hours in the "hot zone". Here is a useful video...(face mask up-cycled from a CPAP machine) The filter, air-pump, and battery are usually mounted on your belt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS6GA83nbds

[youtube]oS6GA83nbds[/youtube]

12V / 24V DC aquarium air pumps (18V cordless drill batteries and chargers?). One option is to use EGO cordless tool batteries (lawn mowers/weed wackers, etc) which are called 56V. They are 14S an would run 48V fans for "server" sized computers, easily found.

One more option is a portable UV light disinfection for incoming air

Here's a video showing what a DIY PAPR loks like and how it works, Not everyone has a 3D printing machine, so each 3D printed part would have to be improvised, but this will still show what the end goal is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmNIEDDCqSk

[youtube]lmNIEDDCqSk[/youtube]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrDdqXzEwHQ

[youtube]vrDdqXzEwHQ[/youtube]
 
I'm liking the simplicity of the 2ROBOTGUY mask found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4231792
 
Cool topic. I Like the printable mask, and its simple square filtration insert, which would be easy to mass produce and keep in the strategic stockpile. Said stock pile should also have machines needed to make stuff, not just products. I mean a glove factory in mothballs, a crapton of gown material, etc.

I was telling my wife the other day, perhaps our strategy in the future should not depend so much on one use masks. Our stockpile for emergency should have something resembling the chemical/ painting mask, but with a simple cartridge made of the same material as the N 95. Masks could then be cleaned in bleach 8 times a day, and just the very simple cartridge tossed out. Maybe find a process to clean the cartridges too. If not actually bloody, bleach clean then dry in UV light room. Just during a crisis I mean.

Fortunately I have a servicable chemical respirator around for paint spraying, if it comes to that. For a simple face covering, cloth is fine. I have seen several mask designs that include a panel of hepa, or even vacuum cleaner bag filters, but those will simply leak too much to be very effective at actually protecting the wearer.

But if we all wear a cloth mask, at least nobody coughs in your face actually wetting you. You can make a simple cloth mask by folding a cloth three times into a rectangle. fold the corners into a W shape, then staple on a rubber band, elastic, or pony tail hair tie. No sewing.

Next time,,, and there will be one,,, personal stock pile of N 95 type industrial masks at the house. We had gloves, use em for various things. But only one industrial dust mask, which can't be cleaned easy. The paint mask can be.
 
Improvised materials for the various components of an effective mask/respirator are important to identify. Just knowing that it is "possible" opens up an entirely new world of options.

There are dust masks in the hardware stores that do not actually work very well. It is easy to mistake them for a useful filtering protective cover. They might encapsulate any coughs or sneezes of the wearer, but they provide little protection from breathing-in the contaminated air around you. In this way, the "N95" mask reduces the possibility of an infected person from infecting others. A respirator protects the wearer from getting infected. In fact, if the respirator has a "exhaust valve", your breath can infect those near you.

An N95 spec mask has several specific features other than the shell being the filter medium.

1. It has two elastic straps instead of just one, this helps to provide a "better" seal around your face, especially if you have to talk with it on. Face movement disturbs the sealing effect.

2. It has an exhaust valve, so the wearer only breathes in through the filter media. Any exhaust goes straight out the "flapper" style of check valve.

3. It has a bendable and shapeable strip over the nose bridge. That area is the hardest part to attain a good seal. Every face has a different shape, so you will never find one mask that fits everyone.

4. The "P100" spec dust-mask has a higher performance rating than the N95...

With all of this being said, I opened up a certified official P100 that I have had for over a year. My work gave me several when I had to sweep out an area known to have rodent droppings in it. I noticed the seal was made from a thin foam that was similar to a mouse-pad on my computer. Even if you made a seal that was from the sleeve of a dish-washing glove, I immediately noticed that this was a very good way to go. It would work well, and would be easy to replicate.

Respirator5.jpg
 
spinningmagnets said:
I noticed the seal was made from a thin foam that was similar to a mouse-pad on my computer.

neoprene (of which there are several types; you want something that very easily compresses so it formfits around other shapes it's pressed against, so much less dense than a mousepad).
 
Paul, EM3ev has masks and quick delivery.
 
If you want a mask for protecting yourself, it does all come down to the seal on the face. This includes any adjustments made by the user.

My wife retired from handling very hazardous waste once a week. They used supplied air masks that covered entire face, which were very fussy about the fitting. But they were pouring very strong shit that would cook your lungs to goo in one good breath. The real key though, was that the mask was positively pressured, so leaks were from in to out.

Make your homemade stuff the same way if you are serious about self protection, fan and filter, so the leaks are all hepa filtered air going out the vent. Can cover the vent with a cloth mask.

My own experience was that if the painting mask fit lousy, you'd figure it out in a half hour, after you got high on the lacquer. Then if you looked in a mirror, you'd see the paint on your face where it leaked. My leak was always where my nose meets the cheeks.

Thank god, so far in my town all I need is a simple cloth mask, which I wear to hopefully encourage others to do the same. Yesterday I did the two week stock up at the grocery, which now limits the number allowed inside. About 2% wearing any kind of face covering. Not good.

IMO, the only way we can get the world back to work, is if every employee has at least 4 surgical type masks per day, and nearly unlimited supply of gloves. We need to get cracking on having GM and Ford make masks.
 
Someone sent me a tip, if you are looking for an affordable elastic strap, the cheap style of bungee cord has a LOT of them. maybe not the most desirable type of elastic, but as a last resort, they would be easy to find.

Respirator6.jpg

I agree about the edge seal, it is the key element. Right now I am drawn to the idea of using a common foam (perhaps thick weather-strip for windows?) and gluing it into the mask. Use a sharp razor blade to shape the foam to be as perfect a fit as possible, and then coat the foam with a thin smear of silicone.
 
Went out today, lots of people with them fabric masks either home made or purchased.
Walmart had a line up outside, and cart cleaners inside which was optional to use. 3 employees told us to not come as a pair, but the majority, aside from children, were couples.

Mile high TP stock.
Lots of cleaners though I did not find Bleach at Waltons or CanaTire.
Shelves were full.
I overheard someone say the NE has had empty shelves, thats a primarily low income, immigrant area, cheap houses, high crime, where most of the murders happen.
Calgary, Alberta Canada

Regular gasoline at the pump is $0.59/Liter, 4.54L/gallon, C$2.68/G $1.93usd/Gallon.


Today’s AAA
National Average
$1.883
Price as of
4/10/20
 
There is a supply of rubber band I have plenty of.

To my amazement, my order of surgical masks arrived today. No guilt, its N95 that the hospitals are so desperate for. 50 of them will supply my extended family for a few months.

What I found, is that a pretty tolerable good seal is achieved by wearing the surgical mask under the home made cloth mask . Pressing down the surgical mask with the cloth helped it seal better, along with the metal nose strip.

So I may have some actually significant self protection when I have to shop now. The cloth mask will help also, with making my use of a medical mask socially acceptable. Nobody needs to know what is under my cloth mask.

I just saw an article about a study done in Korea. Basically, both plain cloth and surgical type masks are able to let virus through, when a patient that is sick coughs hard. This is where the idea that a mask cannot help comes from I think. However, if the mask is worn by the general population, it should help with spread by people just breathing normally, by containing the larger water droplets in the mask vs they just spray out in a 4 foot radius.

Obviously virus passes through both surgical and cloth masks, not to mention few will be accustomed enough to work in a respirator to keep it and the hands uncontaminated for long. But if there is any reduction in aerosol virus in Walmart, its worth the effort to wear any kind of face covering. What has made this one so contagious, is people feel healthy, while they breathe out virus for 3 or more days. Regular flu, you do it for a few hours, then go home sick and stay home 3 days.

I'll be keeping the surgical masks cleaner by covering them, then wash the cloth in the laundry, and put the surgical mask in the sun for about 4 days. Should be clean enough to reuse then. No work for me, so ten masks should last me 10 weeks or more, before re using any of them.

No mask for my exercise, I'm riding with more than enough distance, out here in the western deserts.

No sight of toilet paper yet, but i'm not out there daily hunting either. About May 1, I will be needing it.
 
Dogman Dan - Just use a hose for your TP alternatives.

What will your reuse routine of the N95 mask look like?
Is there a CDC approved cleaning regime for N95 masks?
 
Is there a CDC approved cleaning regime for N95 masks?

Air dry for five days. Or...dry heat to 160F for 30 minutes, or...immerse in 70% alcohol for a couple minutes (no methanol, only ethanol or iso-propyl)

CDC disinfection guidelines for reu...rategy/decontamination-reuse-respirators.html
 
Lots of old T shirts, and a washing machine, if I do run out of TP. Ill get some somewhere by next month. Just not going to visit 10 stores at the peak infection rate week for it.

Might take less than 5 days to refresh a surgical mask in my climate. They don't look like they can be baked to me. I don't have N 95 masks, just the kind your dentist would wear. But I should not have to reuse the ones I have more than every 10 days, even if I went out daily. 5 days if both the wife and I went out.

Bear in mind, the standard for clean is much much higher for medical use. But as a mask to contain your own, thinking you are still healthy, spit, it just needs to be clean enough not to infect you. I am careful now about washing both hands and face ( actually just showering right away) once I come back home from a shopping trip. I have a set of covid shoes that don't get used any more than weekly, and the clothes stay in the garage till the next shopping trip too.

One of the really key things is not touching your face, or the mask, while you wear it. Fortunately I worked enough in respirators this comes easy for me. Soon as I get out of the store and back to the car, I sanitize the hands in alcohol. THEN I touch the keys to open the car. Load the stuff, carefully remove the mask, then sanitize hands again before I get in the car. Inside car door, keys, steering wheel, etc NEVER touched with dirty hands.

Trip to two stores in one trip? TWO masks.

At home, I have it made. The RV in the yard swallows all the fridge food, which sits 3-5 days in there before I really need it. So my fridge stays pretty clean. Bleach mix in a windex bottle for stuff like cans, boxed foods, and also any mail that just came in. Then even mail and such still sits a few days before I open it. Stuff from ebay a bit different. Nearly always an inner package that has taken long enough to get here to be pretty clean. I open the box, and wash my hands, then touch the inner bag.

Spent yesterday sewing cloth masks. My sewing as poor as my welding. Something to do though, and by the end of the day, I had made pile of masks, 4 of which actually usable. Saw the guy from North Sails on the tv and got inspired. Hard work sewing masks, for a novice. Looks like it would be easy, but sewing the pleats in a flat mask very hard. My wife sewing really good masks on her machine, but she can barely see since her eye surgery got canceled. My machine is an industrial machine, and like learning to drive in a race car.
 
I worked as a laborer for a hazmat company for several years, and during one series of jobs, we used a bleach spray to decontaminate anthrax in the post offices of Washington DC and New Jersey (I didn't make it to the Florida job).

Pathogens are specific, so for instance, heat would kill anthrax. But...not a microwave irradiation, because the spores do not have any moisture to heat up...like putting an empty coffee cup in a microwave oven. With no liquid in it, the cup does not get hot.
 
spinningmagnets said:
I agree about the edge seal, it is the key element. Right now I am drawn to the idea of using a common foam (perhaps thick weather-strip for windows?) and gluing it into the mask. Use a sharp razor blade to shape the foam to be as perfect a fit as possible, and then coat the foam with a thin smear of silicone.
i'm not sure if you mean the silicone to glue the foam to the mask, or to seal it to your face?

i'm pretty sure you don't want silicone grease (or uncured/wet silicone sealant) on your face like that, but petroleum jelly shoudl be safe enough. if you mean to put the silicone on it and let it cure, most of the common silicones at hardware stores are fairly "stiff" even in thin applications, regarding conforming to your moving/changing facial shape. (also, some of them put out toxic fumes for quite a while after "curing", sometimes weeks...you probably don't want those on your face either).

there are more flexible ones, but not usually in common stores--it's stuff you use for mold making, prosthetics, hollywood effects, etc.; it's probably a lot easier to just use the right kind of neoprene foam to seal with originally, so that it conforms better.

most of the window seals i've worked with are meant to have significant crushing / deformation pressures on them, so they generally are also kinda stiff and not truly form-fitting without those pressures. using that much pressure on your face is likely to be uncomfortable at best, over more than a few minutes; the necessary straps will be kinda cutting into the back of your head and neck, etc.

if it is very open-cell foam, and very lightweight, it may well compress and formfit correctly, but it may also be so open that it lets air (and contaminants) thru as well, defeating the purpose.


so it might not be as simple as it seems....
 
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