project e-trailer w solar charging

aum

1 mW
Joined
Sep 25, 2020
Messages
18
hi, folks,

i am in a process of making 2-e-wheels (direct-drive hub motors) trailer, with solar panels for battery charging.

basic idea is to travel the world, incl. bumpy roads in the middle of nowhere, and playing some music on the street, plus much more ...

planned overall weight of trailer (musical instruments, mini guitar amplifier, water, food, tent, laptop, clothes etc.) is
55 kg (122 pounds), trailer steel frame aprox.
30 kg (66 pounds), 1 e-wheel (golden motors EDGE VEC INT 48 V 22 A 5.3.1) is 7,5 kg, therefore
15 kg (33 pounds) for both e-wheels, batteries aprox.
10 kg (22 pounds), 4 pcs. solar panel (3x110 + 1x50 W)
8 kg (18 pounds), electronics and outer sides
10 kg (22 pounds), all together
125 kg (276 pounds), add +/- 20 kg (44 pounds)
150 kg (331 pounds)

Q1 - which steel profile should i use for main frame ?

currently i planned 20x20x2 mm (0.7874016 x 0.7874016 x 0.07874016) square steel frame, since the tow vehicle is pedal trike with male Caucasian motor (me, lol), i want frame to be as light as possible.

on the below scheme, only lower part of frame carries a load, and it also holds both motors in place. upper part (outer sides of trailer) will be lightweight custom 'plastic sandwich', and solar panels, all together not much (approx. 10, max 15 kg (33pounds)). for the bottom i shall probably use laminated wooden plank, 10 mm (0.3937008 inch).

cofin w wheels dimen metr.png

cofin w wheels dimen imper.png

welding will be done by me.

Q2 - where should i put center of gravity ? current options:
a) center of the frame box
b) 100 mm (3.937008 inch) behind the center of the frame box
not sure about this, since:
c) batteries and MPPT plus more electronics (aprox. 15 kg) will be in front of the trailer (separate triangular space)
d) i can always rotate the cargo so all the needed weight shall be in front
i do know that weight of any trailer must be in front, on the tow hook, or else the hook will lift back wheel/s, which spells 'accident'.

coffin cg where CUT.png

important here is the fact, that trailer, with 2 x 1000 W e-motors, will push the tow vehicle (ice sprint trike) uphills, as a help for climbing the hills.

sprint with eggy.png

since i have some more questions, regarding wiring of solar panels and boost charge controllers and batteries,

coffin w solar.png

Q3 - should i put additional questions into this topic (probably best to keep relevant info in one thread), when time comes, or open another thread ?

thank you very much for your input,

best regards,

have fun,

aum
s love nia

PS - i put same thread on Slovenian engineering forum, 0 replies in a week. so, you, ladies and gentlemen, are my only chance
 
Like trailers and your design, like the idea of extra power. Would not want an all steel frame to heavy, two motors are also to much. One motor should have all the power you need and pushing a bike/trike does not work well. Just my option.

Solar Charging ++
 
I have seen a few commercial designs where the trailer can assist the ebike, but not being the only power.

Motors in the hubs is a great concept, especially an axle-less design, allowing a floor lower than where the axle would be. Grin's All-Axle would I think be perfect, but not so cheap, especially with shipping from Canada.

Verticle CoG should be low as possible.

Longitudinal CoG should be as close as possible between the wheels. Tongue weight should be between 8-15%, so usually means the wheels are at 60/40 not counting the tongue.

Look at a plastic grid floor rather than wood to save weight

also aluminum rather than steel.

I would start a new thread for solar + batteries + mains charger topic, but cross-reference with links.

And another for hub motors + controllers + display.
 
fellas,

thx for the input.
22 eggy iso with solar panel.png
quote:
"also aluminum rather than steel" - project was started around april 2019, model 1 was 'eggy', aluminum frame, sexy rounded aerodynamic shape. it took me 3 months to get e-motors/wheels (golden motors EDGE VEC INT 22 A 5.3.1, i wanted regen braking, and i need rotation reverse for 1 wheel, since they are mounted mirrored), and i could not get 1 single soul to bend alu tubes, i tried a lot, and i mean a lot. round alu tubes 30/2 mm were chosen, and calculated weight was around 30 kg, therefore same, or even more than current steel - if we figure out that i can use 1.5 mm square steel, i save 25 % of calculated weight - approx. 6 kg. also, i will weld, therefore i will be intimately familiar with strength and every weld, plus, if something (frame) breaks in the god-forgotten place, like middle of africa, i am sure, at least 3rd village will have a steel welder, but an aluminum welder - heck, my sister's neighbor welded aluminum for a whole of his life, and he said he would not touch it ever again (he is retired), plus i requested cost calculation for eggy - guess the price ... no, guess again, add some more ... no, add more ... close, 1950 € for a cut-and-weld of aluminum eggy frame, no bending. the price of alu material is 50 €, approx. 80 if i include transport. alu welding is more expensive than diamonds. no thx.
beside, steel is stronger, so i can safely take smaller profile, and i end up somewhere the same.
calculated weight of steel frame, if i use 2 mm thickness, is 26 kg (plus angle reinforcement with small 3 mm thick steel trines), if i use 1.5 mm, just below 20 kg - what more could i wish, if the trailer is too light, i risk being thrown aside by side wind, or even ants carrying away the trailer, if i happen to fall asleep close to ant hill, lol.
so, no, no aluminum, but i already knew this suggestion would come up. it always does. steel vs alu - eternal debate.

quote:
"Longitudinal CoG should be as close as possible between the wheels" - not clear sentence, you could just say 'left' or 'right' suggestion of 'coffin cg where CUT.png', 3rd image.

quote:
"a new thread for solar + batteries + mains charger topic" - meanwhile i already talked, eye to eye, with local solar trailer 'inventor', i got most, if not all answers to my questions, the rest i will get from local store stuff where i intend to buy sunpower solar panels, and from some friends that (should) know the topic fair well, and from grin justin, i plan to get ca, with y-harness (for 2 motors), thermistor or two, logger (i wrote santa clause, lol), and perhaps satiator, plus small parts. yep, i did my homework.

quote:
"another for hub motors + controllers + display" - same as above, i already have motors, they have internal controllers, display will be CA v3 from grin (ole !).

quote:
"two motors are also to much. One motor should have all the power you need and pushing a bike/trike does not work well" - about pushing - i did had some worries about that, this is the reason i chose central tow hook, not side hook, as most commercial trailers do have. i have to custom-made central tow hook, i already started the work, and the question about the CoG is also related to this topic, so if i put enough weight / force on the rear wheel (of towing vehicle), i think i should be ok, how does it actually perform, we shall see. hopefully i will chose the correct CoG version, possibly left one image of 'coffin cg where CUT.png', 3rd image.
before i discuss 1 vs 2 motors, let me explain, that trike has rohloff 14 gear rear hub, schlumpf hsd (high speed drive) in front, so no place for motor there, and they both together perform excellent, i did 1000+ km of (much hill) travel. for a mid-drive, i found too late, i already bought EDGE motors. now to the topic proper - i did my homework, first quick calculation gave 300 W of needed power, for a uphill assist of calculated 150 kg of complete trailer weight, i added some extra, so i was looking to buy 2 x 500 w, just in case, and guess what, i could not get 500 w with regen braking and reverse rotation, the 'smallest' i could get were the one i did got - 2 x golden motors EDGE VEC INT 22 A 5.3.1. that's the story. i did some more homework, yt video explained that single 1000 W (as i have, 2 x 48 V battery is in plan) is more than enough for an electric bike, even without pedaling, but an electric bike carries, on average, a bike with a motor and a battery (let's say 25 kg), plus a raider (let's say 80 kg), all together 100 kg, while i have a trailer with 130-150 kg final weight, plus 17 kg sprint trike, plus 65 kg for a raider, all together 232 kg, and i am thinking about getting a small dog to, as a company, a bio-alert system, and as an urgent bio-tow motor, lol. it will be accomodated in front, trine compartment. small dogs are 20+ kg. 250 kg, mas o menos.

quote:
"Solar Charging ++" - not clear, but i can safely guess you meant 'the more, the merrier' - put as much solar panels / power as actually possible, that is 440/430 W (nominal), and i do agree, but not sure, i can't find sunpower's 170 W here in slovenia, so i either use (top panel, the main one) 110 W available, or order from england or germany a (quite expensive) sunpower 170 W panel. non-sunpower variants are all, no exception, too long for my coffin, lol. or, ie sunware, expensive as diamonds. gold does not compare here, lol.
quick comparison:
1st choice - sunpower 170 W, price (ebay.co.uk, 2 sellers, both 'last one', the rest are sets, 600+ gbp) 440 €, p&p included
2nd choice - sunpower 110 W, price 210 €, locally available.
so, for more than double the price, i get 60 W (35 %) more power. not much to think about, at least not from my perspective. i can, if i find out that it would benefit me, change 110 W for 170 W, once i am on the road; first goal is sweden, copenhagen, and germany is on the way. and i could try to squeeze 2 x 50 W or less, on the front trine part, must check.
before anyone comments that side and back (and possible front 2) panels, which are all mounted vertically, will not contribute (collect) much power, let me clearly state, they will all be foldable, and will be oriented towards the sun when stopped, and i can also open (orient towards the sun) the right and back one(s), during the travel, since they are not obstructing any passing vehicles, i only risk rabbits laughing at me, from the right side of the road (talking europe- and america-style roads, on england- and aussie-style roads, rabbits will laugh from left side, lol).

have fun,

godspeed,

aum
s love nia
 
longitudinal = "front to back" CoG

best right over the axle, at least clustered there, water, fuels propane, batteries

60/40% location for the suspension mount, so ~10% is on the tow ball

as opposed to vertical CoG (lower the better) or L/R, centered is best at least balanced.

Dunno how to be more clear than that, ask specific Qs if you like
 
oj,

i have finished welding part of the trailer, if you want to watch it (first test drive):
https://youtu.be/tiuQxHSLC0s

first test drive turned out to be a grand success. if you want, you can watch complete making-of videos.

020 20-11-07 testDrive - liveAnimals 2.png


i have used (got) 15x15x2 mm square steel tubes, but if i would do it again, i would use (available locally) 12x12x1.5 mm square steel tubes, way more than enough rigidity, with 3 mm flat steel corner reinforcements.
currently steel frame weight: cca. 35 kg (35 m 15x15x2 mm x 0.88 kg/m = 31 kg, add 2 kg for reinforcements and solar panel holders => cca.35 kg, not bad at all)

side and top/bottom panels will be from polyester-stryfoam-polyester sandwich, calculated weight cca. 10 kg

waiting for warm and dry weather, i have no warm workshop available right now.

best regards,

have fun,

aum
s love nia
 
I might be missing something. Sorry TLDR.
But.
If you have an articulated connection to the trailer behind you, such as a tow hitch, and you hit the go pedal coming out of a turn during lets say wet conditions, or you hit the brakes hard with the trailer at an angle to the bike, there is a chance that biatch is going to jacknife the crap out of you. If you don't know what a jackknife is in the vehicular sense I strongly suggest you look it up. With your trailer being heavier than you + bike it is a distinct possibility.

If you are not dead set on the idea of having the trailer push the bike, I would convert to having the bike pull the trailer. I.e. mount hub motor on bike and keep batteries on trailer. That would be the safe sex option here. There is a reason you are never going to see a motorized trailer aiding the vehicle pulling it with additional propulsion. Simply not a good idea and more than likely dangerous.
 
I agree with having the motor on the bike, and the battery or batteries in the trailer. I'd also put one motor on the trailer, for hills, with an electrical cable running from the trailer to the bike - that is much easier to engineer than a pusher setup. If you do keep the pusher setup, I suggest you raise the front of the trailer a few inches, as there really isn't enough ground clearance there for rough roads with potholes.
 
I've seen commercially sold motorized e-trailers that push the bike, said to work quite well.

Likely they put in better quality professioal design / engineering than what most DIYers can manage. . .
 
john61ct said:
I've seen commercially sold motorized e-trailers that push the bike, said to work quite well.

Likely they put in better quality professioal design / engineering than what most DIYers can manage. . .

I haven't.
Would be educational of you if you were to post a few links to that.
Not sure how much more engineering you can put into a tow hitch design but I look forward to seeing what you've seen that supposedly works "quite well"
 
Ciclon said:
Would be educational of you if you were to post a few links to that.
There's a number of posts and threads about various push-trailers, if you want to poke around the forum for them. Some should be in this list, but it's not comprehensive, and includes irrelevant stuff.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=push+trailer&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

I think "ridekick" is a commercially made one.
 
aum said:
basic idea is to travel the world, incl. bumpy roads in the middle of nowhere, and playing some music on the street, plus much more ...
From my personal experiences, the main issue I see with the trailer, that may or may not be a problem, depends on your definition of "bumpy roads". ;) When I lived in farm country, the gravel roads could have what amounted to ditches across them that a trailer or trike of this design would be trapped in, with the wheels stuck in the ditch and the frame laying on the road on either side. Regular cars (vs trucks with bodies that sit higher off the road) would also get stuck, especially in rainy/muddy conditions. (in the worst cases, even those trucks would get stuck. :lol: ) Riding regular bikes on these roads could really suck, especially after the graders would create "washboard" conditions leading up to and going away from such "ditches", while trying to minimize the ditch itself.


I build my trailers (and trikes) that use suspended-deck axle mounts something like yours, to make the deck lower for better COG / stability, but this does create a problem with irregular road (or parking lot, driveway, etc) surfaces. Under the wrong conditions, it is very easy to get into a situation in which the end(s) of the trailer are contacting the road surface, while the tires are not, or just barely are, and then you have no traction to get out of the situation without getting off the bike/trike and lifting it bodily over the obstacle.

"Beveling" the underside of the frame at each end to some degree helps with this, but it also means you don't have a flat deck on the bottom. For my purposes, that's a serious issue. Don't know if it would be for yours. Depnds on the stuff you want at the bottom of the stack in the trailer.


Something to consider for future versions is using regular wheels, chaindriven from frame-mounted motors. It's not as simple, but it can still create regen, and it makes for stronger wheels that can take more sideloading, and *much* better axle quality than the average hubmotor (I've broken so many axles with heavy-cargo bikes, trikes, and trailers...it's just ridiculous).

Also, you can setup a dog-clutch between the output of the motor and the wheel, that you can operate via cable from the trike, so you can physically engage or disengage the motors to allow easier pedalling should the motor system fail, especially if it fails in a way that leaves a shorted winding (that causes extreme drag). Not a likely scenario, but it does happen (I've had several motors fail this way over the years, some via windings, some via just phase wires inside the axle or motor, and the only way to pedal was to remove the motor wheel and replace it with a regular wheel until I could take the motor apart and unshort it). This kind of failure would suck if you were on the kind of ride you're planning. ;) So I would recommend carrying at least one whole spare wheel (no motor in it needed) just in case of this failure, axle failure, or that of just plain wheel failure in the middle of nowhere.


Q1 - which steel profile should i use for main frame ?

currently i planned 20x20x2 mm (0.7874016 x 0.7874016 x 0.07874016) square steel frame, since the tow vehicle is pedal trike with male Caucasian motor (me, lol), i want frame to be as light as possible.

Youv'e already got your frame built, but in case it helps, I used regular 1" square steel tubing for almost everything on SB Cruiser and it's trailer, and the Raine Trike. Stuff that doesnt' really carry a load but is needed for panels to bolt to (like the fender frames to make wheel wells in the SBC cargo area) is 1/2" square steel tubing. All the steel I use is recycled from old retail fixtures or bicycles, etc., so almost all of it is crappy soft steel and is fairly thick for the stronger stuff, so is heavy. But you can get good cromoly tubing from places like Aircraftspruce and similar supply places. It's not cheap, but it is significantly lighter than the other stuff I'm using for the same strength, as it doesnt' ahve to be nearly as thick or as large an outer diameter to do the same job.


But for the trailer and Raine Trike, for all the triangulation that is in tension, I have used steel rod welded corner to corner of the square tube frames, to save as much weight as I can. Doesnt' really work for stuff that would be in compression--tubing is a better thing for that. You don't have any triangulation on your trailer, but if you find it's too flexible and twists too much, which can cause breakage over time, then you can try this method.



on the below scheme, only lower part of frame carries a load, and it also holds both motors in place. upper part (outer sides of trailer) will be lightweight custom 'plastic sandwich', and solar panels, all together not much (approx. 10, max 15 kg (33pounds)). for the bottom i shall probably use laminated wooden plank, 10 mm (0.3937008 inch).
I've found that simple dog-ear pine fence planks are plenty strong, and light enough. I used that for my SB Cruiser's whole rear cargo box and upper deck, and would've used it for the main deck if I hadn't already built that a couple years or so earlier out of recycled white pine sign frames in planks about an inch thick and wide. I think these https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-1-in-x-6-in-x-6-ft-Actual-0-625-in-x-5-5-in-x-6-ft-Stained-Whitewood-Dog-Ear-Wood-Fence-Picket/50355966 are the ones I used. Whatever the cheapest ones were at the time. ;) I just handpicked them for as straight, flat, and unwarped as I could, with no knots, preferably no grain patterns, as those all weaken the structure (tends to split along those lines).

The main reason I used planks on the trike is that sheets of wood of any kind are "boomy" and the dogs ride in the trike and the noises aren't nice for them. Planks don't all flex/resonate together, so they are much quieter as long as they are not bonded together at their edges. In my case, waterproofness wasnt' required, as it's very dry almost all year here, with the exception of the occasional flashflood weather, or just sprinkles. IN the former case, even solid sheets wouldnt' keep all the water out :lol: and the latter case it typically isn't enough rain during a ride to get inside. But if I did need to waterproof, I'd use a flexible silicone, or soft rubber strips, between the planks to keep out water, while allowing them to flex separately to prevent noise. If noise isn't an issue for you, then don't worry about all that. :)

Regarding the "plastic sandwich", you can safely use coroplast (even recycled from old election signs and such if you like); it's tough and relatively flexible, easy to cut and shape, and very light for it's strength. Is also slightly insulative because it's full of air columns, if you seal the cut edges (tape, etc). It doesnt' usually boom either, because of the structure inside it, where solid plastic sheets often do.






Q2 - where should i put center of gravity ?

You should experiment with this based on your particular cargo load and expected terrain and conditions. But generally when I load up my trailers I try to get the load's main mass somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 way between the axle and the hitch. This usually results in good control of the load, without causing "dive" on the hitch during braking/etc., which can cause the front wheel of the bike/trike to lift (even just a little) and then traction and steering control is lost.


Regarding this, I would recommend putting your wheel axles closer to the rear, rather than centered. Something more like 2/3 of the way back--but this depends on how you intend to load the trailer up.

FWIW, moving the wheels back may make it eaiser to keep the trailer from getting "jammed" in ditchlike conditions (especially if you also move the hitch point down so the trailer points "up" more at the front, giving it more ground clearance), but it will also affect handling while it's pushing you.


I have yet to get the pusher part of my main cargo trailer implemented (requires rebuilding the dropouts, etc to accomodate the wheels and the disc brakes), but when I do I also have an antijackknife control system idea (not quite a design yet).

If you have never heard of Surge brakes on a trailer, look them up--that's what my idea is based on. What my trailer would do is have a slightly telescoping hitch tube, probably springloaded to keep tension and compression on it so it's average position is centered. Then a cable would loop around a pulley from one end of this to the other, fixed at one end and attached to a cable-operated throttle at the other, such that extension of the hitch tube (caused by the trike pulling on the trailer as I try to accelerate) increases throttle, and compression of the hitch tube (caused by the trailer pushing on the trike as I try to brake) decreases throttle. If I used DD hubs and regen, this throttle can be used thru a Cycle Analyst v3 or osme other elecronics to cause an appropriately designed controller (with variable regen) to increase power to the motors when throttle increases, and to apply braking to the motors when throttle decreases.

Basically, the trailer can't keep pushing on the trike more than a certain amount without automatically shutting down, so it takes human reaction times out of the equation (mine aren't all that quick), and should prevent the ability of it to jacknife me due to motor power (won't stop it form doing it due to braking failure and load inertia, of course). If I find that the system prevents being able to deal with some loading situations (shutsdown the motor or provides insufficent assist), a secondary "balance control" throttle can be added to the system that runs up to the handlebars to allow me to momentarily increase power, but return to the default balance as soon as I let go so the automatic system can do it's job.

It should be relatively easy to implement, depending on hitch design (I use automotive ball hitches because I'm not concerned with the extra few pounds, and they're very tough and relatively cheap, and very common).



Q3 - should i put additional questions into this topic (probably best to keep relevant info in one thread), when time comes, or open another thread ?
Personally, I'd keep the whole project in one thread, but it's up to you. :)
 
10-sec googling
https://www.atomiczombie.com/cyclebully-electric-trailer-diy-plan/

Then use this

site:endless-sphere.com CycleBully

to find past discussions here
 
I think your design is good, although personally I'd lean towards the motor on the trike simply for use without the trailer. The workmanship is outstanding. Add weight with more triangles only if you need it.

I made a non motorized trailer at one point, intending to do the solar panels, and go touring. It was coffin shaped, trying to be low for better handling in wind, particularly a cross wind. And then enough panel on the coffin lid to extend range, but not really provide all the charging. I never did finish the project, for various reasons.

I think if you ride slower, like 15 mph, you will find the trailer handles ok, after you learn how to load it to balance best. Its not a great idea to ride fast, like down hills with a big load. But you will be fine once you learn your limits with the rig.
 
Is that what you would call a "commercial "solution? Some dudes slapping a motor and battery on some pipe contraption?
 
Where did you get that idea?

> basic idea is to travel the world, incl. bumpy roads in the middle of nowhere, and playing some music on the street, plus much more ...

That low a ground clearance, will not work for bumpy roads.

Especially pay attention to the height of the hitch point, the attack angle, and departure angle
 
I had the same idea with a 800W motorbike and a 1.2kW trailer. Although the trailer was in weight a total of just 60kg (lots of aluminum, which is a nightmare to repair while on the road, yes), the project failed due to a tiny detail hidden in the solar panel descriptions: usually test environment is 1000W/m². This means, if a panel is put under a light source that provides 1000W/m², it gives the power it is rated for. Unfortunately the power of the sun at the equatorial line is around 400W/m². End of my story (I still have the panels here...).

Greetings from an ex Overlander (39½ months on the road and ended up in Cambodia)
 
oj guys

thank you all for your input

currently (2021-08-26), i basically got to electrification, meaning i need to figure out how to mount solar panels, how to connect them together, then connect them to mppt solar charger controller, next to the battery, and cycle analyst, and rear lights, and few more minor electrical users

here is the trailer (codename: tomb rider, lol) so far:

210826 trailer - before sol panels.png

for sides (and top cover and bottom), i ended using styrodur center plates, epoxy-laminated on both sides (inner 1 ply, and outer 2 plies), using altogether cca 8 kg of epoxy resin, and some 36 m2 of 166 g/m2 of epoxy cloth, plus 15 mm styrodur plates - altogether 8 + 6 + (approx.) 4 kg => 18 kg (30.86 lbs) for sides (little bit more than half of expected / planned (30 kg) - very good)
calculated overall weight so far: steel frame 35 kg + epoxy sides 18 kg = 53 kg (116 lbs)

so far this thread has quite increased in length, this is why i will open separate thread for electrification, and cross-linked both

rinesi quote:
"the project failed due to a tiny detail hidden in the solar panel descriptions ..." - yep, i just today stumbled upon similar 'small print' (actually this is from leaflet found packed with the solar panel) - sunpower flex panel safety and installation instructions: quote: "connecting panels in parallel ... additionally, if one of the panels were to go into reverse bias, for example by shading, damage to the by-pass diode in the junction box may occur. avoid shading either panels. sunpower does not recommend connecting these panels in parallel if shading will occur." duh, shading occurs always, no way to avoid that ... aaargh ! hulk mad !

john61ct quote:
"Where did you get that idea?" - my friend, all ideas come from god, this physical creation is her playground, and all of us just a players in the game, called 'life'

dogman dan quote:
"It was coffin shaped" - ma'man, during the 'early' phase of this project of mine, the codename was 'coffin', lol. next codename was 'solar rocket', now codename is 'tomb rider'. still looking for a final name, though, lol

i am aware of danger caused by braking with the trailer that is heavier than the tow vehicle - the heavy trailer could potentially push the tow vehicle, in this case together with the 'driver' / rider; having both physical heavy-duty v-brakes, and electronic regeneration braking setup on trailer, together with cautious driving, i guess i will be just fine

have fun

aum
s love nia
 
here is link to electrification phase:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1673365#p1673365

godspeed
aum
s love nia
 
john61ct said:
That low a ground clearance, will not work for bumpy roads.

Especially pay attention to the height of the hitch point, the attack angle, and departure angle
Definitely agree there. I recently built one of these and had to raise the top (to give more clearance to the panels on the side) twice. Now it mostly doesn't scrape the ground on curbs.
 
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