StudEbiker wrote:So what exactly is the "correct" lube?
The lube it came pre-lubed with. If you can see the clutch section itself, it's not supported correctly and it is doomed to fail. If you lose or replace or even water down the factory lube with anything else, it's doomed.
Do you know how they work? It's little oval shaped pieces with a little flap of spring steel behind them, the ovals are sized so the shaft can fit through, but once the ovals try to roll, they are too larger on the long-axis of the roller to fit the shaft and rollers in the outside housing, so it binds and pushes the rollers against the shaft surface, and it's only the friction of that hardened steel roller pushing against the shaft surface that transmits all the torque. Anything that reduces that friction between the oval roller face and the shaft directly alters the torque holding of the clutch, and no lube means they gall to the surface and fail. This is why they have extremely specific lubes for this application.
More importantly, if you have it exposed so you can just add lube in the side of the oval clutch rollers, it's doomed from the start, as they can not function as a bearing, they can only function as a clutch that needs to be supported by bearings.
The smart option if you want to give one the best chance of surviving is to get the type Miles used on his bike, a sealed package with an inside sleeve and a roller being for support on each side, then NEVER LUBE IT.
Each carcinogen vapor exposure includes a dice roll for cancer.
Each mutagen vapor exposure includes a dice roll for reproductive genetic defects in your children.
Each engine start sprays them into a shared atmosphere which includes beings not offered an opportunity to consent accepting these cancer experiences and defective genetics life experiences.
Every post is a free gift to the collective of minds composing the living bleeding edge of LEV development on our spaceship.