What information do you need to not work blindly?Dauntless wrote: ↑Jan 17, 2018 4:51 pmYou asked a question that is sophisticated, requiring a sophisticated answer.
But there might be a simpler thing for you to look for. Only part of your picture loads for me, I'm still working blindly. Get a second identical 25w speaker to hook to the other side, do not use the 12w at all. What MIGHT have been happening is you were lowering your impedance below where it wanted to work, OR you might have overloaded the one side by having no speaker at all and that is what shut it down. You need a match to both sides. A pair of 25w 4 ohm speakers might work just fine on this, whatever it is. But I'm still not sure what it is.
Talk about anything and everything here within reason.
What kind of resistor should I buy? And I have a JBL bluethooth speaker of 7.5w, can I espect my 25w speaker to run a least twice as loud as the JBL one?liveforphysics wrote: ↑Jan 18, 2018 5:35 amThank goodness Amberwolf was on this thread.
Balancing channels stopped mattering after the days of tubes and output transformers.
The right side of that modern chip amps has no idea if the left side is on the same planet with it or not, let alone if it's connected to a speaker.
Your popping sound is from the step-wave function of connecting or disconnecting an input source, you can fix it by adding a resistor typically if you care, but it's not going to be related to over-powering your speaker or putting excessive heat into the voice coils of the drivers.
The amp only puts as much power into the speakers as you request of it by turning up the volume knob, and it's always better to have more amp than speaker for sound quality reasons if it's something you care about, but either way with any amp, just turning it down until the speaker isn't mechanically clipping or overheating it's voice coil is the solution (or throw the voice coil pair in series if for some reason you can't control yourself on the volume knob after it starts sounding awful).
The watt rating of a speaker is a measure of how many watts RMS it can handle, not how loud it is.
Loudness per watt of power is efficiency, which is often not spec'd.
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Um, no, it definitely mattered after tubes, but I know that from actually working with them after tubes while it mattered? DID it matter to tubes? Never had the chance to find out.
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