Help me ID this controller and what voltage I can use it with

I’ve got this controller from a few years back.

When I purchased it, it said “24-60v” in the listing...but when I got it, printed in it says only 48-60v

I’m using it with a 24v battery and it working but something keeps cutting out when I go wot.

I personally think it’s the BMS of the battery...a simple reset of the battery (turn key that is built in battery on and off) and it works again...provided I don’t go full throttle again. The battery is a super old lithium and must have a weak bms.

Is it possible for the Controller to cut power off?

Yes the controller could do it as it hits LVC. Normally the controller will come back as the voltage rises with no load. It sounds like the battery is done. A BMS shuts down to protect the battery from over load or a low/bad cell group. Since you need to turn off and on to regain power, it is most likely the battery,
If the controller said 24v/60v that is a wide voltage sprean and sounds like it doesn't have a LVC.
BATTERY.

Dan

Couple good ways to test. First is to use a voltmeter on the battery output. If it drops below the normal level after the cutout, but resets to teh normal level after power cycling the battery, then the problem is the battery. If the voltage doesntchange, its the controller.

Or you can test teh cotnroller with a different battery, or the battery with a different controller.

Did you notice there's a webpage listed on the lower left? I can't read it for the glare. There is company CHZD http://www.chzde.com/

I assume the whole thing resembles the Panlogic, even if the numbers don't match. Did yours come with a foot pedal? These people put more into explaining their PWM than the controller itself. Maybe you didn't get the controller you ordered, they do have 24v-60v. I'd say that one you can take at face value and wonder how it's even running at 24v. Brushed motor needing Hall throttle, not much I can offer.

Thanks guys.

Good idea to test the voltage before and after cutout. I’m thinking battery as well.

So here’s the thing I’m confused about...what happens if I run an 18V battery with a controller that’s not designed for it? I tried an 18v battery and it worked like a champ...no cutting out

If the battery has a bms and it physically works...what’s the worst that can happen???

unclejemima said:

If the battery has a bms and it physically works...what’s the worst that can happen???

Click to expand...

Overcurrent. Unexpected LVD or HVD. Controller burnout (if phase resistance/inductance is different than what the controller expects.)

Clearly the thing does not have a 48v cutoff, which would be around 42v usually. In order to develop the full 1500w though, it would need to run on 60v.


Sounds like it has no LVC to me, or at least a very low one. Most likely your cut off problem is the battery, its a 45 amps max controller, so that's enough to sag like hell under load on any battery/bms system intended for 20 amps max.