aaron_mason wrote: ↑
Sep 14 2018 2:04am
She's pretty similar! Same color , although the headlight is on the handlebars, not mounted to the front like that
. Specifically, she's one of these:
Unfortunately, like the first post's image, it just comes up as a minus sign in a circle. If you attach the image directly to the post, it'll show up for anyone that can see the post itself.
Similarly, while the links to the pages now work, the linked pages themselves come up blank for me except for a "toolbar" at the top that doesn't do anything. I've seen this problem with various google pages a lot, where they work sometimes for some people, all the time for others, and never for some others. For myself, they work once in a while, except for certain "shared docs" pages by certain users that work almost all the time. If you want to be sure that readers of your thread can read the linked content, I'd recommend inserting it into a post within the thread rather than linking it to elsewhere.
(additionally, external linked images and data can also disappear at any time whenever the site linked to goes away, or changes their TOS like photobucket did. Because members here often used PB for critical images, charts, data, etc, in image form, there's hundreds or even thousands of threads that are pretty well useless now because all that stuff is now inaccessible unless those members reupload it somewhere else and reedit their threads, or pay pb's ransom, neither of which is likely to ever happen).
My hope is that I'll be able to hook up the now-unused clutch cable to something that spits out 0-5v, and effectively use the variable regen as a variable rear brake.
You can setup a pot in a box with a lever arm/gears, and use the cable to move the lever. Of there are pot-throttle-boxes already existing if you want off-the-shelf. If the voltage range can be altered to use an analog hall signal (around 1v-4v) then there's several ways to use a hall throttle mounted inside a box for the cable to pull, or there's hall-based "trhottle boxes" that are even simpler than the throttle versions; easy enough to make if you don't need off the shelf.
For some DIY examples, you can look at Cboy's trike thread for a recent example. There's also a number of others but I don't have a quick easy search term set, because "cable throttle" also finds all the stuff about throttle cables.
BTW, make sure you get the "torque" throttle version of the Kelly, or whatever controller you get. They are also called pure-current throttle. These are much more controllable than "speed" or "PWM" throttle control.
As far as braking to zero speed, I think you're right in that it probably won't go there.
It might, if it's EABS.
Regular regen can't, because what it does is basically just take the voltage the spinning motor generates and put it across the battery, so when the voltages are equal, (motor spins down far enough) it doesn't generate any current.
More advanced regen (synchronous) "shorts" teh windings momentarily (flyback) to generate a higher voltage, once it's down to a certain speed, so it continues to generate a higher braking force, but it still has a lower limit to the braking speed.
"EABS" actively brakes the wheel by forcing current out of the battery into the motor against the rotation of the motor; it may also use regen methods at the higher speeds they're effective at, then switch to the toher method at lower speeds down to zero (like mine).
For an example of the capabilities of electric braking:
My SB Cruiser trike is a few hundred pounds with me on it, and much more than that with one of the dogs on it too, and even more with another dog (or more) in one of the trailers. I use "EABS" on the left rear wheel, and regular regen on the right, and between the two they drag the trike to a complete stop pretty quick from 20MPH (fastest allowed here), about two to three trike lengths depending on conditions/load, without using the either set of front rim brakes (there's two on the front wheel, none on the rear). Keep meaning to add them to the trailers, too, but never get around to it--has to change with the new trailer, especially if I haul anything like the piano I did a few months ago...).
Anyway, I'm just using generic cheap trapezoidal controllers, with pretty low current limits on both acceleration and deceleration. I'm sure you can get way better braking out of the kelly, depending on the motor itself. I"m using a pair of MXUS 450x motors, a 4504 on the left and a 4503 on the right; braking and acceleration are much more effective with these wider-magnet&stator motors than previous skinnier ones I've used. (FWIW, acceleration is under 4 seconds from 0-20MPH with just me on the trike).
But one thing you have to make sure of if using electric braking is that the motor's axle is very securely mounted, and that it is not going to subject the axle itself to forces higher than it can handle, repeatedly, or it can break the axle or the dropouts it's mounted in. Been there, done that. :/ Working on a radical way to ensure that never happens again.