Key lock toggle switch to throttle key

Hi,

I wanted to change my throttle grip that includes a key lock.



Only my current key-lock is just a toggle switch...



The throttle only seems to have a single blue wire for the key-lock, yet the key-lock from the controller is a 2-wire connector as it's just a circuit breaker.

Is it possible to wire a throttle key on/off switch and if so how with only one blue wire?

I assume this blue wire is positive output not input and is simply a key on/off to sending bike volts(48v currently) out the blue wire from the positive yellow input via the volt meter indicator?

All advice appreciated.

You'd have to have the wiring diagram for the throttle/key unit, to know where each of it's wires internally connects. If you don't have that diagram (not just names for the wires, which can be mistranslated), then you will need to use your multimeter on continuity or ohms, with the throttle/key unit not connected to anything else, to determine the wiring.

The keyswitch requires two wires. If it is the typical keyswitch, it connects the battery voltage to the KSI (keyswitch / ignition) wire of the controller.

So you need to find out whcih wires on the throttle/key unit are connected to that keyswitch. Sometimes a wire is used for more than one thing, as a "common". If there is a voltmeter or battery meter on the throttle/key unit, then it is likely the keyswitch is connected on one side to the battery voltage line that runs that meter, and the other side is just an open wire.

But because there are low-voltage parts inside the throttle/key unit, you can't just try connect9ing things; battery voltage would destroy them and anything connected to them (like the controller's throttle input, making the controller useless.

Thanks for the reply. You are correct, the throttle voltage is 4.2v , where as the current main voltage is 48v (54v).

Getting a multi-meter has been a god send, I finally understand my controller wiring!

I've just pimped my eBike to the max and am so, so happy, not to mention chuffed that I only blew up one set of brake / indicator lights (@ £10) and shorted one 30A fuse - not bad for a noob :lol:

Turns out, the current key-lock is a toggle, with a permanent live that feeds back to the key-lock signal on controller, that then sends main voltage down 'power indicator / volt meter'.

Where as the new switch-gear with key, takes the permanent live on the 'yellow' power indicator input, but the display doesn't get powered till the key is turned, then the main voltage is sent down the 'blue' key-lock / electric-lock voltage output for controller key-lock input / feed-back.

Doing this hacking made me realise that I am surprised these vehicles pass EU safety as there is a permanent live going to a metal toggle switch on top of the bike, open to the elements and given to kids!

As I plan on over-volting 60v (72v), I'm glad I realised this issue, so now it is better insulated with a key that has a rubber handle!

That also freed up the old 'power indicator' main voltage output from the controller, that only flows when key-lock is triggered, that I now run to a 36v/72v DC-DC step-down converter to 12v. (yup didn't realise the brake and other outputs aren't stepped down by the controller other than for the 4.2v throttle.)

So having blown up one set of indicators and brake lights, I wired 12v-80v brake light and tail light to the main voltage and so when the bike is on, I will always have a tail light and brake light triggered by both front and rear hydraulic brake sensors.

I then Amazon primed a DC step-down converter, 4 new indicators with DRL for less than £5 - bargain, the metal brackets for front forks cost more :lol: oh, that's when I bought a multi-meter as well , a box of terminals, a crimping tool, 30 WAGO connectors, a control switch-gear for (horn, indicators, lights), a 12v horn, and a 20w 12v LED head-lamp.

Then I wired the 12v output from the converter to the old electric-lock toggle switch, so I can run the bike in main voltage mode with just a brake light and tail-light, but if I flick the old 'power on' toggle switch, it activates the 12v circuit and turns on the indicator daytime running lights, as well as activates the horn and indicators and I can turn on the main head-lamp with the lights button independently.

This also now means if I park the bike, no one can mess with the bike and turn on the power without a master key.

So yeah, very happy with results so far and loving the journey, experience and having so much fun messing with this eBike, I've only burned £10 and a fuse, not electrocuted myself, and only spunked less than £70 on parts, with half again on tools.

It's the new 60v battery that is going to cost the most, but either way, my cheap Chinese kids toy is looking pretty dope and is now packed with loads of functionality and safety features.