Electric motorcycle battery/Kelly controller panic!

Electric wolf

100 µW
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
9
Good morning! I’ve seen this forum Providing help to people, and I just wanted to see if you guys could help me out with something-since you all seem like you are well-versed in this! I have an electric motorcycle with a cover controller that needs to be installed and I’m having some serious problems...For starters I just ordered a 72 V lithium ion pack and upgraded it from a 72 V lead acid set up. I tried to turn the breaker on after I installed the battery with my old controller and it shuts off immediately! I tested the voltage and it’s saying 100v! The only way it will stay on is if the charger is plugged in?!?! So I figure it’s a good time to upgrade the controller and switch to the Kelly. But now I’m having trouble finding the app to connect Bluetooth. I’m also having some trouble with figuring out the wiring setup. I’ve got it down to about 11 wires that I’ve traced back to their respective positions. Please any help would be greatly appreciated 😭thank you in advance
 
Here is the Kelly BT ap, As for the wiring, it depends on which Kelly controller you have. But here is where you can find the wiring diagrams:https://kellycontroller.com/support/

Here is my Kelly KLS controller wiring:


My suggestion would be to go through my thread on my build to get an idea what you are looking at, see sig. My concern is why you are showing 100V on a 72V battery.
 
I would immediately suspect your voltmeter. Replace the battery in the voltmeter. Try measuring a known voltage from something else like a wall outlet. The most you should see on a 20s pack is about 84v at end of charge.

Is the breaker staying on or tripping? I'm not clear on what exactly is shutting off.
 
fechter said:
I would immediately suspect your voltmeter. Replace the battery in the voltmeter. Try measuring a known voltage from something else like a wall outlet. The most you should see on a 20s pack is about 84v at end of charge.

Is the breaker staying on or tripping? I'm not clear on what exactly is shutting off.
I thought the same-so with a fresh battery I did test it-120v for my receptacle. I don’t think so because it doesn’t make any clicks or move into a reset position-but maybe I’m missing something? The display screen comes on-but it slowly fades to black. If I can post a video I will very soon
 
JimVonBaden said:
Here is the Kelly BT ap, As for the wiring, it depends on which Kelly controller you have. But here is where you can find the wiring diagrams:https://kellycontroller.com/support/

Here is my Kelly KLS controller wiring:


My suggestion would be to go through my thread on my build to get an idea what you are looking at, see sig. My concern is why you are showing 100V on a 72V battery.
Exactly! I started to charge it with the 5amp charger it came with-but it tripped the gfci receptacle it was plugged into. So I switched to the 3amp charger I had already to fully charge it after installation-and When I came back to check my charger ring light was on but it did something I never seen it do-it was blinking rapidly. I have to check and see if they sent me a 96v or a 72v just to be sure. And I have a KLS7230H Kelly controller.
 
Update: cheap Chinese voltage meter labeled backwards. Measuring in AC instead of DC? 82.5 is the new voltage. Sorry for the mistake!
 
Ok so the breaker isn’t tripping-so I think I may have damaged the old controller? I don’t have any resistors in my original setup-so maybe it blew up my controller possibly?
 
Did you actually hook up the battery backwards because of the meter? That could have popped something. I don't know if Kelly is reverse polarity protected?


If not, was one of the wires an ignition wire?

It shouldn't be that close, but maybe high voltage cutout?
 
Voltron said:
Did you actually hook up the battery backwards because of the meter? That could have popped something. I don't know if Kelly is reverse polarity protected?


If not, was one of the wires an ignition wire?

It shouldn't be that close, but maybe high voltage cutout?

I think the polarity on the battery is right-I hooked it up to the old controller, so the kelly is untouched. I’m just confused on what wires the wiring harnesses hook up to. At first-I connected the battery and test rode it. It was all good. Then I decided to fully charge the battery, and when I took it out-it cut off after turning on...it would only stay on if the charger was still plugged in!?!? At first I thought high volt cut out too-but it works with the charger in...🤷🏻‍♂️
 
I have a 3000w 72v setup-recent battery swap from lead acid to lithium ion. With the bat at around 85% everything worked smoothly-but then I decided to fully charge it after using it…Now it won’t stay on. Every time I go to start it-it comes on for a sec-then the screen flickers and starts dimming out and it shuts off. It seemed it was tripping the 100amp breaker at first. I let it sit for a couple of weeks and it worked fine after that-but as soon as I fully charged it again-it was back to shutting off at start. Just replaced the breaker for one with a higher amperage, and got the same result-without it tripping. Also swapped out the old controller with a new Kelly kls 7230n and nothing. Maybe the wrong battery was shipped to me and this is higher than 72v? Maybe that is the problem? Someone….ANYONE…PLEASE HELP LOL. Will cash app anyone who figures this out for me a helpers fee!
 
A 72V lead acid battery pack is around 76V fully charged. A 72V (20S) li-ion pack is around 84V fully charged. So, it could be that the much higher voltage is the problem. Mostly because the BMS (Battery Managment System) in the pack or controller have a HVC (High Voltage Cut off). But with a new pack and controller that shouldn't be a problem. Is there anything else in the system that can't handle the higher voltage? And have you measured the voltage of the battery pack when fully charged? I do hope you got a new Li-ion charger with the new battery pack?
 
SlowCo said:
A 72V lead acid battery pack is around 76V fully charged. A 72V (20S) li-ion pack is around 84V fully charged. So, it could be that the much higher voltage is the problem. Mostly because the BMS (Battery Managment System) in the pack or controller have a HVC (High Voltage Cut off). But with a new pack and controller that shouldn't be a problem. Is there anything else in the system that can't handle the higher voltage? And have you measured the voltage of the battery pack when fully charged? I do hope you got a new Li-ion charger with the new battery pack?
Yes I did get a 5amp charger with the battery pack-the voltage was measuring at around 82v. I did switch from my old controller to the new Kelly, but I only connected the motor and hall sensors harness. Still got the same shutdown. Recently I experimented and plugged in the charger before turning it on-and it stayed on!?!? I took that opportunity to drain some of the voltage by leaving it on for about an hr. Now it comes on perfectly and rides with no issues. What could be making it cut out when it’s fully charged? I have no clue…
 
SlowCo said:
Seems to be the programmed High Voltage Cut off value in the controller being to low. Can you change that yourself?

I can’t with my old controller-but I should be able to with the new Kelly controller. I just haven’t figured out how to wire it in because I don’t have any wiring diagrams for my motorcycle. I’ve traced most of the wires-but a hand full of them I’m still not sure of. I’m also a bit confused about some of the terms used in the Kelly wiring diagram for the other two harness plugs (foot-SW?, grey meter? for example).0C3D2745-CD6D-4A90-9ED3-FEB4ED970EED.png
 
Just a guess, but some golf carts have a foot switch that's like a deadman switch, that cuts things off if you're not stepping on it.

I'm guessing meter is voltmeter, and D-grey is the wire color, dark grey
I don't think it meters shades of grey. Lol
 
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