Ezip 1000 mods

TropoJet

1 µW
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1
Hi All,
Just bought an ezip 1000, I’d like to modify it. The gears are packed in grease, a good way to lube the gearbox? I was thinking of using a gear oil bath, and am wondering if the input-output seals could handle that without leaking.Has anyone had one of these apart and know if there are two lips on the contact surfaces, or if the seals are any common sizes? Also, I heard that the throttle controller has a speed limiter, does anyone know if that is changeable on the stock unit. If not, are there other controllers out there that don’t have that feature, not sure if I need to go to 48 volt yet. Thanks for any help.
 
TropoJet said:
Hi All,
Just bought an ezip 1000, I’d like to modify it. The gears are packed in grease, a good way to lube the gearbox? I was thinking of using a gear oil bath, and am wondering if the input-output seals could handle that without leaking.Has anyone had one of these apart and know if there are two lips on the contact surfaces, or if the seals are any common sizes? Also, I heard that the throttle controller has a speed limiter, does anyone know if that is changeable on the stock unit. If not, are there other controllers out there that don’t have that feature, not sure if I need to go to 48 volt yet. Thanks for any help.
Bump, i want to see this thing do 3kW with RC LiPo
 
I have been running 48v (12s RC Lipo) with stock controller for over a year. Always use a wattmeter, can get about 1800 watts peak on take off and tops out at 20 mph. It did about 15-16 mph at 36v. Bought a couple controllers to play with, one did not seem to have any current limit and hit 3k watts peak but the controller always made a high frequency sqeal. It would flip over on full throttle! Stock controller works best and 20 mph is cruising on this scooter!
 
Jesistak said:
I have been running 48v (12s RC Lipo) with stock controller for over a year. Always use a wattmeter, can get about 1800 watts peak on take off and tops out at 20 mph. It did about 15-16 mph at 36v. Bought a couple controllers to play with, one did not seem to have any current limit and hit 3k watts peak but the controller always made a high frequency sqeal. It would flip over on full throttle! Stock controller works best and 20 mph is cruising on this scooter!
You got the results I was looking for! :twisted: is it just a regular 3 phase motor with 3 hall sensors?
 
I have a Schwinn Stealth 1000, same as yours. I added a lifepo 36V 20ah in the same box below. I had to lower the battery box three inches to accommodate the added size. Added better discs and 5ah charger. She goes great, can run for 25 miles or 5 hrs on a charge. Best bang for the buck, check out sunthing on ebay
 
can i over volt the stock controller to 48v? at 36v the motor gets hot as is , but i have read that the stock controller will take up to 48v , is this true? i just fried one motor by over volting it lol dont want to do this to an expensive scooter.
 
The prevailing wisdom on the board (Not my own knowledge) is the voltage won't make it hotter, amperage will. The voltage will make the motor spin faster, the amperage will help uphill.

A little more info from Jesistak would be nice, such as amperage for the 12s, how any rows, etc. Any special trick to fcitting them, as allroads mentions? And chaindrive or gearbox? I have 750 watt in each to tear the chaindrive apart, but if the gearbox can take 20mph I could try out 36v.
 
attempted 48v with the scooter, worked out just fine , motor actually ran cooler which is the weirdest thing , it ran differently , like the controller was really trying to deal with the new power, by limiting it somehow ,controller got a bit warmer , i got more speed and torque , but the speed was maybe from 14 mph to 18 or 19 mph , i couldnt touch the coveted 20mph range which is sad, but its also carrying maybe 50lbs in batteries (6 batteries 3 10ah , 3 12ah ), plus me at 170 , thats already 220 in me and batteries alone , so im thinking ditch all these batteries and find me a lithium battery, im looking at some 48v 10ah , what do you guys think? it weighs about 14 pounds, the weight reduction should help make up for the range i will lose since im currently getting around 9 miles at 22ah , so im guessing a lighter vehicle will have quicker acceleration , top speed and a range comporable to my 22ah lead acid set up? . its quite sad though , my electra scoot n go with new motor , (24v 350 watt stock was 24v 250 watt) overvolted to 36v 500w will run at about 24 mph flat out and closer to 26 and up on a downhill. it also weighs half of the ezip . but lacks the amenities such as dual brakes, dual shocks , etc... but has a chain drive.

ideas on batteries? they are my biggest enemy currently , the lithium setups sound soo nice but cost big bucks to implement , were talking hundreds.
 
I overvolted an ezip 750 with a lower power rated motor to 48v with a 30 amp controller. 12s 20ah lipo

It does 33 mph and also goes well uphill.

It run reliably everyday for 2 months. Now something went south I suspect the motor but haven't open it up yet, still runs but at lower power.

Bought the same motor that comes with the ezip 1000 to replace the motor and should run reliably. Might need to adjust the gearing to get same or more speed as the 750 motor was 24v and the new one is 36v rated.

Actually, if you look at the specs from the Chinese manufacturer the 750 motor is rated at 450w and it says can be run at either 24, 36 or 48v. ( motor model XYD-6B )

The newer motor is rated 1000w 24 36 or 48v. Also has built in cooling fins on the body, and the magnets are Neodynium
Instead of Ferrite maybe on the 750 motor. I read neodynium demagnetizing temperature is 300 C way higher that Ferrite that is about 80-100 C. Seems stronger too, the magnetic resistance to turn the engine with your hand is 2-3x higher on the 1000w motor.

Both motors have the same 3 bolt mounting pattern so the 1000w motor is a great easy upgrade (motor model is XYD-14A)
 
Whatever voltage the motor is assigned, 24-36-48, they are designed to run close to 3,000rpm at that voltage for the Currie. So if you replace the 24v 750w motor with the 36v 1000w motor, it should actually not run as fast.
 
Yes I know I can expect lower rpm with the xyd-14 motor, but I can easily go from the current 85 tooth rear sprocket to a 55 tooth. Could also replace the 11 tooth in the motor for a 15 tooth but that will be too much.

It will run cooler at 1500w, and is a direct bolt on replacement, same bolt pattern as the lower watt motor. The 750 motor is actually rated at only 450w if you look at the actual Chinese manufacturer website (motor xyd-6b). The xyd-14a is rated 1000w.

We'll see how it works. Already got the new motor, but also sourced an entire ezip e-1000 scooter without batteries for $100, so I'll see what I end up putting together.
 
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