i think my controller dosnt work properly is there a way i can test it.. heres the problem.. if i run the motor without any load it works fine, when i put a load on it it starts making a grinding noise, i thought maybe the controller isnt giving enough amps or something like that... does anyone know why this is happening
how to test a controller
- Thread starter husainh1
- Start date
There's quite a few threads about it, mostly over in Ebike Technical and in the Motor Technology section, and Technical Reference, but basically it sounds like you may have the wrong hall/phase combination, if it is a new controller and/or motor being hooked up for the first time.
If it is something that previously worked fine, and now suddenly doesn't, the first thing I'd check is your connections--a pin on a hall sensor may be backed out slightly, or corroded, or not crimped/soldered correctly. (same on any other connection between motor and controller).
If anything happened between the time it worked and the time it didn't, exact details of that would be helpful in solving your problem.
Details of your system and setup could also be helpful.
If it is something that previously worked fine, and now suddenly doesn't, the first thing I'd check is your connections--a pin on a hall sensor may be backed out slightly, or corroded, or not crimped/soldered correctly. (same on any other connection between motor and controller).
If anything happened between the time it worked and the time it didn't, exact details of that would be helpful in solving your problem.
Details of your system and setup could also be helpful.
John in CR
100 TW
Please describe the grinding noise....like a rubbing intermittent in sync with the rotation, a continuous rubbing, or more like a rapid bumping/knocking?
Like most electronics, controllers typically work or don't work. Like AW asked, was it working before and the problem is new, or is the controller new to you?
Like most electronics, controllers typically work or don't work. Like AW asked, was it working before and the problem is new, or is the controller new to you?
amberwolf said:
so it is a new controller but i tested it out and found the right combination and it worked for a while but then it stoped, i didnt even do like 200km on the new controller....
the controller is 18 FET IRFB4115 INFINEON CONTROLLER (MOTOR WITH HALL SENSORS) the motor is the one that came with the scooter idk what it is but its 500W
its a 60v battery... the dc to dc converter is also new..
i tested out the throttle and it looks fine,, i opend up the controller and the hub moto,r so there are no bad wires, i traced it from the board inside the controller to inside the hub mottor everything looked fine... i used a multimeter to test the hall sensors and they were working fine also.
i guess the best way to describe it is ,as if someone is switching the power on and off realllly quickly. so i twist the throttle and the motor moves and quickly comes to a stop then moves and quickly comes to a stop really fast... i got desperate a few days ago and i took the scooter out for a test run and i found out that the problem only happens when slow speed so it kinda stops happening when im going like 40km/h (24miles/h) but its reallly bad when i start from a dead stop...
here is a link to the video
http://youtu.be/C3OBlNKgS24
Ok, well, there's a few possibilities that would cause it to shutdown and restart.
If your controller can't handle the current pulled by the motor, if it has a protection against that beyond the usual current-limiting PWM (which would cut back power on the motor just enough to not exceed the limit, normally), it might be shutting down and restarting.
What causes that could be in the motor, where perhaps a winding is shorted just a little to something, either itself across several loops, or the stator laminations, etc, and it only happens to really short under a mechanical load for whatever reason.
Or it could be int eh controller, where a FET or FETs (or gate driver(s)) are failed, or are not screwed down to the heatsink properly and are overheating, or a capacitor is bad and allowing a lot of noise thru (which would happen more at higher currents, probably) and causing a cotnroller reset, etc.
Another possibility is yoru battery is cutting out under hte load--this happens way more often than controller failures or motor failures. It oculd be because a cell(s) is not fully charged (or damaged), and the pack's BMS is cutting power when the high current of startup/etc causes the voltage on the cell to drop below the LVC.
Could be a poor connection inside the pack causing the same kind of end result.
If the BMS is not acutally cutting power, but a cell or cells still have problems, it could cause enough of a voltage drop to make the *controller's* LVC engage, and cause it to turn off, then back on as soon as voltage rises again.
You'd have to measure the pack voltage while riding (or putting the motor under load while stationary, etc) to see if that's what's happening. If it is the pack cutting out, you'd probably see *all* power on the bike go away momentarily, so a meter measuring at the packs' output connector to the bike would probably show 0V or very very low V for the time of the cutout. If it is the controller cutting out, you'd just see a dip (maybe large) in the pack's voltage, but not down to nothing.
If your controller can't handle the current pulled by the motor, if it has a protection against that beyond the usual current-limiting PWM (which would cut back power on the motor just enough to not exceed the limit, normally), it might be shutting down and restarting.
What causes that could be in the motor, where perhaps a winding is shorted just a little to something, either itself across several loops, or the stator laminations, etc, and it only happens to really short under a mechanical load for whatever reason.
Or it could be int eh controller, where a FET or FETs (or gate driver(s)) are failed, or are not screwed down to the heatsink properly and are overheating, or a capacitor is bad and allowing a lot of noise thru (which would happen more at higher currents, probably) and causing a cotnroller reset, etc.
Another possibility is yoru battery is cutting out under hte load--this happens way more often than controller failures or motor failures. It oculd be because a cell(s) is not fully charged (or damaged), and the pack's BMS is cutting power when the high current of startup/etc causes the voltage on the cell to drop below the LVC.
Could be a poor connection inside the pack causing the same kind of end result.
If the BMS is not acutally cutting power, but a cell or cells still have problems, it could cause enough of a voltage drop to make the *controller's* LVC engage, and cause it to turn off, then back on as soon as voltage rises again.
You'd have to measure the pack voltage while riding (or putting the motor under load while stationary, etc) to see if that's what's happening. If it is the pack cutting out, you'd probably see *all* power on the bike go away momentarily, so a meter measuring at the packs' output connector to the bike would probably show 0V or very very low V for the time of the cutout. If it is the controller cutting out, you'd just see a dip (maybe large) in the pack's voltage, but not down to nothing.
