Ya think? Noc, have you taken apart your scooter at least once? Like completely apart? Have you figured out how you gonna fit those 10 Leaf modules in the scooter? That is a big honkin' controller you bought. Have you figured out where you gonna install it in the scooter?inedible wrote:you're moving really quickly here, and you're getting in over your head I think.
Hi, I have been reading different threads for a few days, trying to fix my problem. This is an email I sent to Motorino in Vancouver.mistercrash wrote:This is what I had to do to get to the top speed you want. Replace the controller with a $450 USD Kelly, the motor with a $420 USD QS MOTORS 5KW 12 inch hub, the battery with 10 Nissan Leaf modules totaling $1290 USD, and then there's the less expensive stuff like the the DC/DC, and all the power wiring plus other stuff like a contactor, fuses and relays which all had up to maybe an extra $500 USD. And all those prices don't include shipping cost or custom fees. You will need to have quite a few tools to help you modify and fabricate stuff to make everything fit.
The top speed you want will not happen with the controller and motor you have. I mean you might get to 75 km/h by adding more batteries and modifying that little controller but you can't ride more than ten seconds at that speed before your 500 W motor starts heating up very quickly. And that controller, no matter how much you modify it, it will not last. It is just not built to take a 200+ pound scooter to high speeds and give lots of torque to get there fast. The batteries from Motorino don't give the power you need, they are pretty weak and they will sag in voltage too much, no sense spending more money to get more of what will not work. If you want the performance of a small motorcycle then you will need to get small motorcycle components, electric ones that is.
OK Noq. I would like the tech's contact info if you please. Should I say that you highly recommended him? I was thinking same about the controller being the culprit here, but I have read about a few others having wiring problems on their Motorinos. I already checked the wiring harness from the front handlebars down, and I thought I fixed the problem of some connector insulators coming off, and shorting out. My plan is to upgrade components, so I will start with a 48v-96v controller, just to get it running, and then do the upgrade on motor next, then to Li-Ion batteries, cuz I want to get as much out of the SLAs as I can first.Noq wrote:Thanks Nick. I'm at 84V fully charged. The XPh looks good to mod but the Ruckus wouldn't have a lot of space to work with. You can see inedible's thread and how he modded it. You're right, that's Blaine. Not gonna talk about how much I spent because it's stupid, but it is state of the art and that's what you pay. I'm glad I did it in the end. I still think you have a controller issue. You should try swapping controllers real quick just to see if that fixes everything at once. You want my tech contact in Vancouver? He's full of spare parts and would likely diagnose you for free if you brought him your bike, and charge you very little to get you going.
I inspired this!? I've created a monster.Noq wrote:Thanks mistercrash and others for the inspiration.
Hi Noq, Peter just emailed me back. No solution yet. He wanted me to check my breaker for continuity, but it's OK. It looks like I may need an EXORCISM on that damn thang, b/c it behaves like it is POSSESSED. It stops and goes when it wants to. How long does it take to recharge your batteries now? I am not concerned so much with speed ( I am old) as I am with range. I would like to be able to ride to Trail, (70 KMs) charge for a few hours then be able to ride back to Nelson at between 30-80 KPH. There is a very popular music fest in Salmo too every summer. It's about same distance. So, with all the new leathers, etc, do you look like the TERMINATOR now?!? L0L https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8Fyf4R-nzINoq wrote:Hi! I'm back with a couple updates. Everything is running smoothly, except I have a speedometer problem. It seems that when I pass 92.5KMPH, the speedo deducts about 50KMPH at that point and reads 46KMPH, 47KMPH, etc. climbing upwards. My guess is that it's counting two rotations as one and dividing the total speed by two, throwing off not just my speedo but my odometer as well. I'm going to try adding some additional poles to see if that corrects the problem; otherwise, I've got to talk to the tech's at Grin who make the CA's and let them know there's a top-end issue with their speed counters. They tell me they've never seen this before, but they've also never seen a bike go this fast before so they're not sure how to address this problem.
I get good mileage. If I drive very conservatively, I can do about 150KM per charge. But since I don't, I average 80-100KM per charge, or even as low as ~65KM if I try to keep up with my gas-bike buddies. Things that kill the battery include accelerating from dead-stop on an open throttle, and maintaining speeds of over 100KM on the freeway. At full speed, it costs a constant 100-190A to maintain, not to mention a lot more power to climb up to that speed. If I drop down one volt on the throttle, I cruise at around 20-80A (values dependant on wind resistance more than anything else). So it costs around triple the power to go only ~15-20KMPH faster, which is not really worth it if you're concerned with economising battery power. In addition, doing those kind of accelerations is pretty hard on the battery. I don't think they're designed to deliver 10C like that.
(VMin so low because I did this on a nearly-dead battery. Stupid, this hurts the battery.) From full charge, a 500A+ acceleration will not take the voltage nearly so low; maybe around 75ish.
So my rack broke.
I wasn't too happy about that. At least my bin didn't fall off; it was held on by the metal fastener plates that spanned that point. I was able to get the new one installed and it seems to be a bit stronger with welded tube supports instead of that flat plate, although there isn't any reinforcement at the point of breakage. The part was $38.
Mistercrash, here is where we were able to fit that controller (just barely):
Note the accumulated grime. I might have to add a rubber flap there to combat it.
I definitely hear what you're saying about migrating to a steadier, insurable moped frame. I'm actually considering something else at this point: migrating to a motorcycle frame. Doing so would confer several advantages. First, I'd be insurable, which is good (same as the Vino). Second, I'd be way more stable than you ever really can be on a moped at those top speeds. The small front wheel and tiny, light frame just aren't meant to go past 100KMPH. An identical Vino frame would probably have the same issue. Actual motorcycles feel a lot more confident at those speeds, although there's a limit if I use this wheel because it's very small compared to motorcycle wheels, which means small contact patch with the road, which means potential for skidding. Third, I'd have extra room for additional batteries. The tech at QS Motors told me that I could run the 8kW motor at up to 120V safely. My mouth watered I'm not amp- or torque-limited, but I am voltage limited. Another 40V or so could see me blast wayyyyy faster on the high-end, clearing 150KMPH I imagine. Fourth, I'll have room to put more batteries in parallel, thereby increasing my range. I'd love to go farther per charge. This can only be achieved with the additional space a motorcycle frame provides. So that's the future plan. For now, I'll continue riding on this build because I haven't had any major problems yet (legal or otherwise), although sometimes I feel like my frame is too rickety to withstand the pressures of high-speed braking and I have this nervous sensation that my front wheel is going to pop off at high speeds as the weight transfers to the front...
I bought a new armoured leather motorcycle jacket and armoured leather gloves. Now I've got pads on my knees, forearms, elbows, shoulders, spine, knuckles, and palms. My boots are strong leather too. I feel safer. For the winter months, the plan is to layer with UnderArmour, a heated jacket, and my leather on top of that. For rain, I can put on a waterproof snowboarding shell and snowpants over my armoured jeans. For cold hands, it's possible to get heated riding gloves that connect on one line to the jacket, which itself runs off the 12V. Voilà!
Nick, check your PM's for my tech friend's info!
That would be the reason why I want to convert a genuine motorcycle. The steel and welds of the Motorino scooters look like they're barely strong enough for a kid's tricycle. I wish my Yamaha Vino was done now, I get nervous riding the Motorino after seeing the difference between the two frames, so much that even though it has a top speed of 90, I ride it at 40. I'm glad that only your rear rack broke at the speeds you're riding. I look forward to see which kind of motorcycle you choose for your next project, I'm sure it's going to be awesome.Noq wrote:So my rack broke.