Vectrix Battery Connectors help

Hi All,

Double posting this across the V is for Voltage forum and here, since there's a lot of members that don't visit both. (Or at least their names don't match across the forums). Hope nobody minds, and someone can help:

I just received the cells for my booster battery today. In the end, I chose some Multistar 16Ah cells. These are capable of 10C sustained, and 20C burst up to 10 seconds. I bought 36S worth of the cells for $450 USD, which was the decider - It was going to be $900 for 3Ah of LTO that would last forever, or $450 for 16AH of LiPo that would last 2, maybe 3 years - Remembering that's all I need it to last for. (Moving to another country in 2 years time)
These cells have been rated around 0.8-1.2mOhm per cell, so I should be able to get a pack with around 30-40mOhm internal resistance. This is compared to the current pack which is estimated at 400mOhm (based on the Cycle Analyst and voltage sag). This should result in a much zippier bike, and hopefully more range.

I've been trying to watch videos by the guy at 300mpg on how to remove the battery to get an idea of how I can tap in. I can't tell 100% from the video, because he skips so many steps, but it looks like the original NiMH battery has a SB120 blue to join the two packs, and in the video, bare wires for battery/controller connection? Searching this forum suggests that they're Anderson plugs, but no indication whether PP, SB, and whether 120A, or bigger. Can anyone clarify what size and type the connector on the controller/battery cable are? I am guessing SB120 grays as the most common type, but haven't seen any photos to confirm.

So, my other questions are:

1. How to parallel the booster? I'm thinking one of two possibilities: (a) use a SB??? double adapter. (b) Put a second eye terminal on the existing pack, and run an 2AWG cable to the helmet storage, and put the LiPo pack there.

I'm thinking (a) makes it more universal (I.e. no matter what pack I have in the future, as long as it has a SB??? connector, it will fit), but will be more work. I also need to strip the bike down once to order parts, put it back together, then strip it down again to insert the cable.

I'm also thinking (b), if done very carefully, would mean that I could keep the controller "live", while I insert a second cable, so that there's no issues with current inrush. Speaking of which...

2. Do I need to do any kind of inrush current control? From what I've read on the board, it seems like the bike already has inrush protection. From other threads, people are talking about using light globes as an inrush protection. If I do need inrush protection, the Y connector is looking better - Connect up the LiPo pack through the light globe, quickly connect up the main pack, then remove the light globe and plug in the booster pack. Doing it with the eye terminal method would rely on never losing continuity. If I slipped, ever for a second, not only will inrush be a problem, but there will be an almightly 150v spark when it reconnected.

I'm probably overthinking and over-planning this, but now that I am reliant on the bike as a daily commute option, I'd be loathe to open it up, and find I need to leave it apart for a few days to a couple weeks waiting on parts. So I appreciate any hints, tips and advice in making this a smoother upgrade.
Thanks.

Tried your luck on the AEVA forum? I know several guys with Vectrix battery swaps there, surely they can help?

Actually haven't. Hadn't even heard of that forum until you mentioned it. Will look now

You should be able to parallel the booster by putting between the shunt negative and the positive-most battery terminal.

You can disconnect the main anderson and anderson splitter (mounted on the top battery) while you connect the booster.

There is a small pair of molex connectors that have an LED on them - thats the inrush protector for the bike. They would probably be put together already.

Disconnect these when you disconnect the two anderson connectors. To reconnect, reconnect the anderson pack splitter, connect the inrush limiter (turn off the CA with the switch in the glovebox first, it draws current) the LED will light for a second or two, and then reconnect the main anderson.



The battery pack on the bike is custom, and different from a normal conversion (there were a few aspects of the normal conversions I didn't like, most noticeably having to hack up the battery cover.

Thanks Heath. That's helpful. I'm taking it apart this weekend, so to know what to look for will save me a fair bit of time.

Using M8 eye terminals tapping in those locations also means that it doesn't matter what size andersons they are.

Should be a fun weekend!

Well, the booster battery connector installation went well. At least, I now have a SB175 connector in the boot reading the same voltage as the Cycle Analyst.

Haven't plugged in the booster battery yet, as I am still building it.

Bike turns on and rides as normal, so I'll call that a win.

But... As soon as I plugged in the charger, I heard a crackle, and the BMS warning light flashes for a second or so, and it doesn't charge.

99% sure it's unrelated. I can't see how I can get the bike working again, but destroy only the charger, but I haven't really had a good look at how the wiring of this goes. The charger was making a funny noise since I've bought it, so it was possible it was on its way out, and this was coincidental. This is the lowest voltage I've charged from, so it's possible the extra strain on the charger caused it to go.

If that's the case, I'll just get the biggest custom charger I can that will fit. If not... Could be a long diagnosis process... Wish me luck.