I think a little clever dimensioning can accommodate for inserting the motor at a slight angle, but I sure have to make sureSlowCo wrote:If you want to slide the wheel into the swing arm dropouts surely the pin should be bolted to the swing arm afterwards and removable to be able to get the wheel assembly out later?
wineboyrider wrote:Good tip
marcexec wrote:Good tip
Thank you, I'll look into this too. I was hoping to find something IP67/68 rated, as it will be mounted inside the left rear "bubble" of the chassis (I'm out of room underneath the seat).whereswally606 wrote:Yet another good tip
Eddy, as I just went through this myself, you might want to consider triggering regen only from the rear brake. I solved this with a Schottky diode.EddySPalm wrote:I just paid my way out of any fiddly brake set-ups: Found a company who sells hydraulic conversion brake pedal especially made for my Vespa! Includes a cast aluminium brake pedal with brake switch and master cylinder. All I need now is to run my brake hose back to the disc brake.
Hey, thanks markexec! I was acutally thinking of using the "activate regen upon throttle release" function to begin with. Do you have any pros and/or cons with regards to this? I can only image what the different options will be like, as I've yet to try any of them...marcexec wrote:Eddy, as I just went through this myself, you might want to consider triggering regen only from the rear brake. I solved this with a Schottky diode.EddySPalm wrote:I just paid my way out of any fiddly brake set-ups: Found a company who sells hydraulic conversion brake pedal especially made for my Vespa! Includes a cast aluminium brake pedal with brake switch and master cylinder. All I need now is to run my brake hose back to the disc brake.
Let me know if you'd like a diagram.
Wait, are you saying the enormous rear brake that came with the motor might not be sufficient? It's like 10" in diameter :Omarcexec wrote:Shiny equipment there mate.
My thinking is that I want to be able to control the rear brake independently from the front, thus the disconnect.
With the weight in the hub (potential) rear braking force will be stronger than before, so I want strong regen to help the smaller rear caliper. See my thread for some pics.
As mentioned, the cable throttle on the clutch lever might be used to adjust. The Kelly has a few options to play with.
I don't think I'd want much "engine braking" on throttle release, coasting is more efficient. I can always "kick it off" with a light press on the rear brake. Added benefit is that the brake lights light up on regen for safety.
Hope that makes sense
No, I just want to have to have control, i.e. no regen on the rear wheel when I press the front brake.EddySPalm wrote:[..]
I wish this all made a little more sense than it does at the moment, you're saying you want to control the rear brake independently of the front. Did you have one common pedal for front and rear? Sorry that I haven't pressed your links yet, maybe if I read through yopur posts I would have understood more.
The wiring diagram for KEB72601 says different? It says to use 5V from the controllers' 5V output. I'm not branching in on my 12V (or actually 6V) system anywhere except that everything 12V will be powered from 60V-12V DC-DC converter.marcexec wrote: Keep in mind that the regen is electrically activated from the 12V circuit, i.e. the brake light, thus the diode.
Sounds like a very good solution for you! I was planning on using a separate switch, as I have so much room to fit it around the brake pedal Thanks for your input! I do appreciate it, it's just that sometimes my knowledge just doesn't cut itmarcexec wrote:Kellys work best fully isolated, so I'm using a relay to trigger the 5V from the 12V brake input.
Me too! And I completely forgot to thank youmarcexec wrote:Glad that what I found works out for you!