Thanks a lot for your feedback and the link. I'll need some time to review Jeremy's post - I hope it's OK to come back with more questions in case his post doesn't resolve the issue!?
Now, this is a picture of the external shunt: One of the 2 thick black wires goes to the controller's minus pole, the other to the minus pole of the batteries. And the 2 thinner red wires (in between the black cables and one above the other) are connected to the 2 red wires of the Turnigy.
Now, as far as I understand, shunts usually get looped into the minus (grounded) side of the electric circuit. As for the red wire soldered to the smaller yellow circuit board of the Turnigy (and which is connected to the low amp connectors of the external shunt) is actually one
wire that's stripped of its insulation at the point where its soldered to the yellow circuit board. Then there are the + and - pins on the side of the Turnigy. To me that seems like a total of 5 wires. Last but not least, it almost sounds like I'll definitely have to remove the internal shunt of the Turnigy?!
I'm sorry if I'm a bit dense here, but how do I have to wire the Turnigy in order to get it to display measurements?!
1) How can I connect the Turnigy (it's black wires) to the external shunt without needing to run the heavy battery/controller leads up to the Turnigy? Woudn't that be the - part of the shunt circuit?
2) Can I connect the red wire of the Turnigy to the shunt's 2 low amp connectors and
the reducer's +12V (I put in a 48V/12V reducer to run everything that requires 12V), which would be the + part of the shunt circuit?! Or....
3) Would I in any case need the + and - pins on the side of the Turnigy connected to +12V and -12V of the 48V/12V reducer? But then, what about the red wire in 2)?!
Again, I'm really sorry for being really
slow here. But electric circuits just aren't my thing
Thanks so much.