It's only a 3kw motor...it can't be that great. I'm sure I can over watt it somewhat.John in CR wrote: ↑Jan 15, 2018 11:48 pmThat scooter already has the best hubmotor on the planet on it as long as you don't run a pig heavy scooter with it. If you can Keep the all up load at say 400lbs or less and run the smallest 13" tire you can fit, then you'll be on your way to something special.
For the most part the roads are pretty level here. I intend to lose a lot of weight in the moped. Those 200 pounds of SLA's have got to go! I'll strip off stuff as needed to get it's weight down further. I might just strip it down to the frame and ride it "bare" with no cowlings or extra "stuff". I want this thing to be fast and as light as possible.John in CR wrote: ↑Jan 16, 2018 10:12 pm82V is probably a bit high for something the weight of a big scooter unless you live in a flat area. Assuming it's a standard wind (18rpm/volt) then a 20s pack will get you well over 60mph, and unless you're heavy like me and can keep the all up load below or around 400lbs, then you shouldn't have a problem running 100-110A battery side current limits to each half of the motor. As always, I suggest keeping the phase/battery current ratio below 2:1 . I run 1.6:1 on my ebike that was the fastest hubmotored ebike in the world for 4 years until beaten by Rovii's 2 or 3 times as heavy 273x80 double wide electric GXR. Mine was on a Cannondale SuperV. AFAIK, high phase/battery limit ratios create nothing more than unnecessary heat, especially when hills or hard riding is involved. Give me that flatter torque curve and maximum power and quick passing ability in the midrange speeds over making my bike too easy to flip. It's a no-brainer. Leave the big phase current claims to the guys with under-performing over-hyped common high slot count hubbies.
If you haven't already, play around with HubMonster on Miles motor spreadsheet, and for fun check out efficiency and power potential at high voltage. Maybe at long last I've found someone who can help build an economical 150V-200V controller and bring HubMonster to its true max potential in a mid-drive geared to put it in effectively a 10-12" diameter wheel still capable of highway speeds and more.
Thanks for that! I was thinking about that problem while reading your hubmonster thread. When I read that there are 4 sets of halls, I quickly realized that figuring out which hall set went with which set of windings has got to be a nightmare.John in CR wrote: ↑Jan 16, 2018 10:20 pmPS- Don't lose track of which set of halls go with which set of phase wires. If you get them crossed you pick up a bit more rpm from a 3% timing advance, and while it still runs fine (I used mine for a few weeks that way), it creates slightly more motor noise, loses a chunk of lower speed torque, and creates significantly more heat. I was unable to tell which was which after a crash mangled my wiring harness, but I knew something just wasn't quite right with the motor until I swapped them over. It's not just a matter of swapping the connectors either, because crossed halls means you have to get the phase wires in the correct order too when you move the halls. On top of that, the motor spins the wrong way on a "good combo", so swapping 2 halls is required as well.
Everything you said here I've seen too. I haven't opened up the battery bay yet, but the few cells I can see do not look bulged. I don't really care a whole lot. They are crappy SLA's after all...heavy, poor capacity, saggy and old battery technology. They are probably not useful for anything except recycling. They have sat for over 2 years in this state. If they take a charge, I'll be surprised.amberwolf wrote: ↑Jan 17, 2018 2:02 pmMost of the SLAs Ive run across that are "dead flat" at zero volts won't charge at all, ever again; they're destroyed. Many of them are swollen and cracked open at that point.
Occasionally I will get one that accepts a charge, but even after it's full capacity has flowed thru it from the charger, it still drops back to an extremely low voltage when the charger is removed, and drops to zero volts as soon as any load is placed on it.
Very occasionally one will accept a charge and rise to a useful voltage (but not it's normal range), and not drop to zero with a load, but it won't take a useful load, at least not more than a few seconds, before dropping too low to support the load.
I was estimating building a LIPO pack at 16S and 60Ah. That's slightly more voltage and capacity than the factory SLA's at 60 volts and 50Ah. The entire LIPO pack would weigh less than a single 12volt 50AH SLA. I'm seriously "getting the lead out" of this EV!
I hear an echo in there!amberwolf wrote: ↑Jan 19, 2018 2:26 amThat's a fair bit of space. It's not quite as big as my cargobox under the seat on SB Cruiser, but I could still probably put both of my EIG NMC 14s2p 40Ah packs in there. If they were paralleled, that'd be 58v full, 400A continous current capability (800A peak)--I expect that could give that scooter a kick of acceleration (if the controller can use it).
FWIW, those SLA look like some of the ones in the powerchair I have (though they're long dead). They make good ballast so it doesn't tip over, but that's about all they have going for them.