Attempted to bench-test the motor and controller. Threw together a quick and dirty 7S lipo pack just to get things to power up, got the motor, halls, contactor with precharge resistor, and a cheap scooter throttle connected.
Was tripping the contactor with a portable jumper pack.
I'm going to blame what happened next on a combination of sleep deprivation (I work overnights, and I wanted to get the motor to spin before I went to bed, so I was probably doing this at around 3pm aka my bed time) and less-than-optimal work lighting, but you'd be amazed to hear that thin red wires and thin pink wires look awfully similar
under the right/wrong lighting.
Because of that mix up, I mistakenly connected ~26v DC positive to what was supposed to be the +12v output from the controller. There was a spark, the controller lit up for a second, then shut off. I noticed that I mixed up those two wires, corrected the issue, and now I can get the controller to power up and stay on but I'm getting Angle Sensor error codes (3 blinks, 4 blinks) and am unable to talk to it via RS232.
Verified that I have a 5V across power and ground of the hall board, so that's at least getting juice still. For some reason I forgot to check if I still even have anything from the controller's 12V supply, but I'm assuming I blew up some part of the 12V regulator, which likely took out the RS-232 comms, and can hopefully be fixed by putting a new capacitor/diode in the spot the likely has a scorch mark. Also going to try to get the serial connection to work using another computer.
Well aware that posting that here means that I blew any warranty/chance of getting the thing fixed, but I'm going to own what was likely a $220 mistake. Ordered another one. If these controllers will actually work on my bike, I needed two of them anyways, and I'll be able to use my not-blown-up controller as a reference to figure out what to replace.
Also started playing around with another variation on the primary drive, which I like a lot more for several reasons (aside from the fact I could just make the entire thing on a drill press). I'll need to add some more detail to the motor model, but assuming I can still get to the water cooling barbs, I should be able to just grab a chunk of 6in x 2in aluminum box tubing. Can definitely do it if I use 6 x 3 tube.
The primary chain has a 1.5:1 ratio, which is enough to allow me to use stock sprockets to get about where I want it. As far as I can tell, a rear sprocket for a 1990-1995 ZX600 (probably more years than that actually) should fit on the bike (same 6 on 130mm bolt pattern and 110mm center bore) and allow me to run a 530 chain instead of the stock 520. Yeah, 530 is heavier, but with a 530 chain I can just use a keyed front sprocket from Mcmaster (or Tractor Supply, or Grainger, etc) because it's the exact same size as #50 industrial chain. Probably going to run a 45T rear sprocket and a 16 or 17 up front to hit my target 4:1 gear ratio.
All-in, the entire power unit (aluminum case, both motors, all the bearing blocks, shafts, sprockets, etc) will end up around 30lbs, which is right around the weight a motenergy etek-that-isn't-an-etek, with (hopefully) a lot more power. Aside from a bunch of additional holes and slots being cut in the aluminum that are necessary to do things like install/tension a chain, there's a ton that I could do to make this a lot lighter (aluminum bearing blocks instead of cast iron, aluminum sprockets, etc).
The countershaft section is narrow enough that I should have no problem fitting it on just about any frame with near-stock sprocket location, and the #40 primary drive chain is nice and short but well within the accepted working loads.