Small motorcycle build help KM100

aerickse

1 mW
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
14
Location
MI
Hello, I am trying to put together a build for a 1980's KM100. The bike with engine/trans', (100cc) and fluids weighed 190 LBS. I have removed all of it! I do not know how much it weighs now. "much much less" I would say 80-100 I don't have a scale.

I am having trouble choosing a motor and controller, I don't know the bike is big enough to house a mid-drive W/ battery. Mabey? Thus I'm leaning towards a hub motor set up if possible.

Bike measurements: https://imgur.com/a/Pj41q5c Let me know if more is needed.

More information:
• Budget 600.00 (I know its small) But we are a small University Club.
• Tools are not an issue as I am an automotive technology major.
• Not afraid of DIY/Homebrew controllers if saves money.
• Performance: looking to get 40mph (I don’t know if that’s feasible).
• Use-Case: commuting around city, Range not an issue.
• I am making the battery with my classmates.
• We weigh 160 on average.
Looking at 17-20 wheels.




Does anyone have any recommendations? This is a budget student project, so I don't have a lot to spend.

Thank you in advance.
 
You'll need to provide much more information if you want any relevant suggestion.

Any picture of the bike?
What budget are you willing to spend?
What performance level do you plan to achieve?
What tools do you have access to?
What do you plan on using this bike for?

From what I can see on google pictures, your bike is a good candidate for a hub motor. You can get up to any wheel size you want if you use spokes and you'll have plenty of space for a good battery. A hub motor is a very good choice in most case, unless maybe if you want to do a super powerful racing bike.
Most of the hard work I see will be the motor and rear brakes attachment.
The fact that the front brake is using a very crappy drum design also seems to dictate a not so powerful setup (safety first, doesn't make you any good to have a lot of power if you can't stop it whenever you need).

You budget will dictate most of the technical choices. The battery is usually a large part of the total cost and that is generally speaking the first thing you want to sort out because all the other component will depend on it.

There are a lot of possible options, but each project is totally different, if you want to actually go further on your project and make it come true, you should first try to be clear about the questions asked hereabove.
 
Dui said:
You'll need to provide much more information if you want any relevant suggestion.

Any picture of the bike?
What budget are you willing to spend?
What performance level do you plan to achieve?
What tools do you have access to?
What do you plan on using this bike for?

From what I can see on google pictures, your bike is a good candidate for a hub motor. You can get up to any wheel size you want if you use spokes and you'll have plenty of space for a good battery. A hub motor is a very good choice in most case, unless maybe if you want to do a super powerful racing bike.
Most of the hard work I see will be the motor and rear brakes attachment.
The fact that the front brake is using a very crappy drum design also seems to dictate a not so powerful setup (safety first, doesn't make you any good to have a lot of power if you can't stop it whenever you need).

You budget will dictate most of the technical choices. The battery is usually a large part of the total cost and that is generally speaking the first thing you want to sort out because all the other component will depend on it.

There are a lot of possible options, but each project is totally different, if you want to actually go further on your project and make it come true, you should first try to be clear about the questions asked hereabove.

I figured I needed more info I will get right on it! thank you very much for your guidance
 
I edited the post and attached a link for pictures, let me know your guys thoughts.
 
aerickse said:
• Budget 600.00 (I know its small) But we are a small University Club.
Yeah, that's a bit short. I think the best way might be to save on the battery, or to try to find second hand parts for the motor and the controller.

aerickse said:
• Tools are not an issue as I am an automotive technology major.

That's a good point

aerickse said:
• Not afraid of DIY/Homebrew controllers if saves money.

I think you can forget it, it's a very complex subject, it probably will won't save you money and it will take you months/years just to understand how it works.
But who knows, if you have the support of your school and teachers I suppose it could be doable, in which case you can search on the forums for the lebowski controller.
I suggest you to put that idea aside for now, build the bike first and then, maybe later, update to a DIY controller.

aerickse said:
• Performance: looking to get 40mph (I don’t know if that’s feasible).

Should be no problem if you go for at least 60V

aerickse said:
• Use-Case: commuting around city, Range not an issue.

Ok

aerickse said:
• I am making the battery with my classmates.

Ok, but I think your budget might be short to do the whole thing if you go for a lithium battery.


aerickse said:
Does anyone have any recommendations? This is a budget student project, so I don't have a lot to spend.

My recommendation would be to go for a spoked hub motor, like this one:
http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/QS%20Motor%203000W%20205%2050H%20V2%20E-bike%20Spoke%20Hub%20Motor/258.html

I think the 2000W version should be sufficient to reach your targets without overheating. That's around 200 bucks I think.
Maybe a 1500W or even a 1000W could be enough, but I wouldn't be too confident because of the weight of the machine.
In any case, take a "V3" version.

Then try to find a no name controller on ebay. At least a 3000W if you don't want it to overheat:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=brushless+controller+3000W&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=brushless+controller+5000W&LH_TitleDesc=0

Around 150 bucks.

That leaves you with about 250 dollars, likely less with shipping.
So a lithium battery might be hard to get at that price

In my opinion, you'd need at least 60V and 20Ah, so either you manage to get some lithium cells somehow for this price and that will leave you with no money for all the other little things (brakes, fluids, screw, DC/DC converter, lights, tires, rim, spokes, etc.), or you go for a cheap lead acid battery and you might have a few bucks left to purchase those.

But again, if you manage to find all that stuff second hand, you might be able to build it cheaper.
 
You are my hero I was also thinking the 2000w my self. Your imput is appreciated so much. You just made my day.
 
aerickse said:
Dui said:
You'll need to provide much more information if you want any relevant suggestion.

Any picture of the bike?
What budget are you willing to spend?
What performance level do you plan to achieve?
What tools do you have access to?
What do you plan on using this bike for?

From what I can see on google pictures, your bike is a good candidate for a hub motor. You can get up to any wheel size you want if you use spokes and you'll have plenty of space for a good battery. A hub motor is a very good choice in most case, unless maybe if you want to do a super powerful racing bike.
Most of the hard work I see will be the motor and rear brakes attachment.
The fact that the front brake is using a very crappy drum design also seems to dictate a not so powerful setup (safety first, doesn't make you any good to have a lot of power if you can't stop it whenever you need).

You budget will dictate most of the technical choices. The battery is usually a large part of the total cost and that is generally speaking the first thing you want to sort out because all the other component will depend on it.

There are a lot of possible options, but each project is totally different, if you want to actually go further on your project and make it come true, you should first try to be clear about the questions asked hereabove.

I figured I needed more info I will get right on it! thank you very much for your guidance


We are in the process of building a 20ah battery out of reclaimed cells. The discharge testing is very time consuming but very very rewarding.
 
aerickse said:
You are my hero I was also thinking the 2000w my self. Your imput is appreciated so much. You just made my day.

We are in the process of building a 20ah battery out of reclaimed cells. The discharge testing is very time consuming but very very rewarding.

Glad I can help, keep us posted on the progress!

An important point: before buying your motor, discuss with the supplier and tell him what is the dropout (the distance between the two sides of your rear fork), as well at the type of brake disc you will using. They exist in different versions, small dropout for ebikes (I think its 150mm) and large version for emotorbikes (180 or 200mm, I don't remember). Also, ask for the V3, which provides better cooling (aluminum core instead of steel) and beefier wires.

Do you know what are those reclaimed cells?
Be careful not to select too crappy cells, they will need to be able to provide at least 3C of discharge reliably.
Reason being that if you have a 3000W controller, you'll need 3000/60V=50Amps of discharge from the battery.
If your pack is 20Ah, that will be 2.5 time its rated capacity, so 2.5C. Add a little safety marging because those cheap controllers don't monitor the current very well, and you'll need 3C.

So, when you are doing your discharge tests, try to check the internal resistance of each one of your cells and also try a few discharge cycles at 3C to see if and how the capacity drops and the heat rises.

Also, you'll need a Battery monitoring system, especially if you are using old unknown cells. It will monitor the charge and discharge of your pack and protect both the battery and yourself. Those are easy to find and pretty cheap nowadays, you can have a look at this thread which is full of great information:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=88676
 
Quick update and questions.

I received my motor, wheels and the controller order is being processed. I went with a motor with the fallowing specifications.

3kw electric bike hub motor:

Rated Power: 3000W
Voltage : 48V-120v
rpm : 860rpm @ 72v
Max torque : > 110N.M
Efficiency : > 89%
Hall sensor : yes, have two sets, one is for spare
Temperature : Yes
Drop out : 150mm
Axle size : 10mm x 16mm
Brake : disc brake PCD6*44mm
Freewheel : 6speed or 7speed
Net weight : 12.8kgs

Controller:
Available Motor Power 1KW-3KW
Phase Peak Current 210A
Current Rated 40 A Max 80A
Working Communication Hall Sensored
Waterproof Grade IP65
Weight | Instaliing Size 2.1 kgs | 280 * 117*
60 mm
Defaut Throttle Working Voltage 0.8V - 3.8V ;
Mosfets Detail 24 FET

Wheels 20" x 3" with tires.

Which leaves me with the final and most difficult of the puzzle pieces. Battery architecture and BMS

The cells I am working with are CGR18650E's. I have 120 tested ranging from 2300-2010mah.
I was wondering should I build a 72v pack or is that overkill?
I was thinking 20s 6p but now I'm second guessing my self. Can anyone recommend a good architecture for my need?

Side note: If needed I can most likely prossess more cells. But I'm running low.
 
aerickse said:
Which leaves me with the final and most difficult of the puzzle pieces. Battery architecture and BMS

The cells I am working with are CGR18650E's. I have 120 tested ranging from 2300-2010mah.
I was wondering should I build a 72v pack or is that overkill?
I was thinking 20s 6p but now I'm second guessing my self. Can anyone recommend a good architecture for my need?

Side note: If needed I can most likely prossess more cells. But I'm running low.

We want pictures! :wink:

About the cells, capacity is just one aspect.
The other one, which is just as important as capacity is the internal resistance. You need to measure it for each cell and check that all the internal resistances are low enough and match each other. Otherwise there's a good chance you battery pack will be weak, will heat a lot and won't last for long.
Also, you need to check the current leak: charge your cells fully, the disconnect them from the charger. Wait 15 minutes, measure the voltage and record it. Then wait for next day and measure again. Check how much the voltage decreased. If it decreased too much then the cell is toast.

Your controller is a bit on the weak side, but it might still need to draw 80A from your battery from time to time. Which means, if you're running 6P, that each cell will have to deliver more than 13Amps. That's quite a lot, even for brand new high tech cells. If you take a look at the spec sheet of your cells, they are rated at 4.9A maximum... You are well over that!
You need to add more paralleled cells if you want to avoid problems.
 
Pictures will be posted soon! I'm in the middle of moving so it's all totes untill the 1st. Also finals haha so alot of studying right now.

Can you explain amperage and how putting more cells in parallel correlate, my book doesn't describe the correlation if there is one.


One million thank yous
 
aerickse said:
Pictures will be posted soon! I'm in the middle of moving so it's all totes untill the 1st. Also finals haha so alot of studying right now.

Can you explain amperage and how putting more cells in parallel correlate, my book doesn't describe the correlation if there is one.


One million thank yous

My pleasure :)

I'll try to explain but it's not super easy, you might want to browse the forum a bit, some might have done a better job at explaining than me.

Basically, lets say that your controller needs 80 amps.
Your battery is 6P, which means 6 cells in parallel. Let's assume each cell has a capacity of 2000 mAh (so 2Ah). In your case it's more around 2.2Ah but let's keep the example as simple as possible, you can redo the calculations yourself with the correct figures.

So your total battery capacity is 6cells x 2Ah = 12Ah. It means that if you want to discharge completely your battery in exactly one hour, you will have to draw 12Amps from it continuously. Discharge rate is what is generally called C-rating. If you discharge it in one hour at 12 Amps, the C-rating is 1.

So, let's assume your controller only needs 12Amps: then you are drawing 1C from the battery.

Now, if your controller needs 24Amps with the same condition: you are now drawing 2C from the battery.

So, instead of discharging your battery in one hour, it will discharge at 1hour / 2C = 1/2hour =30 minutes.

If your controller is drawing 36Amps: then it's 3C, so 20 minutes, etc.

In your case, if the controller needs 80 amps, then it will be 80A / 12Ah = 6.6C = 9 minutes or so.
Which means that your battery will be fully discharged in 9 minutes, which is pretty fast, the battery won't like it.
In real life of course it will be more than 9 minutes, because your controller won't use 100% of the power all the time, so that's just theoretical. But it gives an idea of what to expect if you ride at full blast.

Now, let's look at the spec sheet of your cells.
From what I remember reading yesterday, your cells are rated like that (you might want to find ant have a look at the datasheet yourself to make sure my figures are correct, just type the cell reference in google):
0.5A continuous discharge
5A maximum discharge

Generally speaking, you want to use your cells close to the "continuous discharge" rating, because they are designed not to heat as long as you stay under this figure.
The "maximum discharge" means that the cell can take this rating as a maximum for a short amount of time (this time is rarely defined by manufacturers, so it can be anything between 10 seconds or one minute).

Your controller is rated at 40A continuous and 80A peak (peak=maximum discharge). So your cells need to be able to provide that. In this example I'll only consider the maximum discharge figures, but the same calculations apply to the continuous ratings.

You have 6 cells in parallel, so you add up the output of each: 6cells x 5A = 30A. Your controller needs 80A so the battery is only able to produce 37% of that power requirement (80/30 = 37). That's the absolute maximum your cells should be able to deliver. Anything above that might damage them. Maybe not kill them instantly (but maybe yes), but at least reduce drastically their lifetime.

The other way of calculating would be to use C-ratings. In this case, you can determine the C-rating of your cells: they are rated for a 2Ah, supposedly at 1C. Since according to the specs they can deliver a maximum of 5A, they are capable of 5A/2Ah = 2.5C. We determined earlier that you need 6.6C, so, here again 6.6/2.5 = 37% of what you need. Which is coherent with the previous calculation. Tadaaaa.

You can use any of those two methods,depending whichever you prefer or whatever data you have to start with.

So, your cells can only deliver 37% of your needs (according to this basic example at least, in your case it's a bit more since your cells are not 2Ah but 2.2). You have only two options there: either find better cells, capable of a higher discharge rate, or add more cells in parallel. The ideal would be a combination of both. Don't forget also that in this example we used the "maximum rating" of your cells, you want to use your cells at their "continuous discharge" ratings... and in your case that rating is 10 times lower while the controller needs are only half lower (40A)! So... well I guess these cells kinda suck.

Hope it is clear enough, I tried to keep it simple and some stuff is a bit inaccurate for clarity purposes but that's the idea.
 
You have described this way simpler, and more digestible than the book I bought on building Lion packs. :lol:

Thank you so so much. I am going to redo my calculations ASAP and get back to you.

Highest regards,
Alec
 
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