Suzuki GSX-R e899 K2

I got now my first official test run result:
https://youtu.be/DodpG162VS0
 
1/8th mile speed looks good. Was that the only 60ft time you had? If you drop your air pressure in the rear tire, at some point it will hookup and slip just the right amount for peak thrust. Crank up more field weakening and your 1/4mile speed should pep up. If you can get the 60ft time down, its likely a mid to low 12second bike.
 
Yes, I run it only one time!
It was a deal with the manager of the event to present and run my bike one time to the crowed of people and I have only the costs for the 200km trip distance (one way).
For June I want to shorten the wheel base (-10cm), decrease the pressure und want to start with field weakening. Let’s see how it works then!
Actually I am very happy with this result, also regarding the mistake by spinning wheel at the start!
If they heared that I run last year the 14,468 and I said my aim is to beat it they start laughing because the track will go high at the end.
Well let’s say the Emsiso controller worked much better than the Kelly’s I used before!
 
- reduce the pressure
- shorten the wheel base distance (-4")
- activate field weakening (50A @ 90% stator voltage)
 

Attachments

  • Radstand verkürzt.JPG
    Radstand verkürzt.JPG
    67 KB · Views: 2,803
All those things will help, but the field weakening you want to be say 500amps not just 50amps. It's a dragbike, you don't need to save any motor thermal capacity for your return to the pits.
 
Luke, let me see first, field weakening option is working or not.
If the speed will increase (above 150 kph) than I will continue by increasing it!
 
70% of controller phase amps of 800Arms or of hubmotor current which is given with 703A from manufacturer side?
So 560A vs. 492A?
Than Luke‘s comment with 500A seems to be good?
And you both think that I do not destroy the motor by this value?
It’s first time I am handling with field weakening option!
 
I would do 70% of max controller phase current. If it is a good controller it will probably not hit that level but back off earlier for other reasons...

But no reason not to start low and try anfew runs upping the field weakening, just dont expect impressive results before hitting the 70% mark.
 
Lebowski said:
I would do 70% of max controller phase current. If it is a good controller it will probably not hit that level but back off earlier for other reasons...

But no reason not to start low and try anfew runs upping the field weakening, just dont expect impressive results before hitting the 70% mark.

+1
This is sound advice.
 
In parallel to this season Ihave started with one of the project phases for future update and ordered an ordinary PVM 10Y-Design rim in 6x17“ but she will not stay in this small dimension!
 

Attachments

  • C75E7297-A2DA-4C89-9E48-BC68F33FBB2C.jpeg
    C75E7297-A2DA-4C89-9E48-BC68F33FBB2C.jpeg
    58.9 KB · Views: 2,608
Also a new rear tire is ordered:
Shinko Hook Up Pro in 200/50-17 and some blue screws ..,
 

Attachments

  • DB97CB62-96DB-4451-A50B-AA4B0669150A.jpeg
    DB97CB62-96DB-4451-A50B-AA4B0669150A.jpeg
    33.3 KB · Views: 2,557
  • F6BADAFA-FCA8-4ADF-A30D-DCC4DF04AA6D.jpeg
    F6BADAFA-FCA8-4ADF-A30D-DCC4DF04AA6D.jpeg
    65.2 KB · Views: 2,557
  • 23F1D5B7-479D-44CF-A758-DF9628BDF40F.png
    23F1D5B7-479D-44CF-A758-DF9628BDF40F.png
    51.3 KB · Views: 2,556
Ok, here are some results from my last 1/4 mile event:
- I deaktivate field weakening ( recommendation from manufacturer, because of missing manual instruction)
- first run, spinning wheel and drove 13,1 seconds,
- shorten again the wheel base to 6“ over (15cm).
- second run with new pb of 12,278 seconds
- my best 60 feet time was 2,072 seconds
- had 3 controller cut offs ( 2x over current at start line and 1x undervoltage, 20-40m before finish line)
- won against brand new 600ccm GSXR
- best Topspeed was 172kph.

I hope to get as soon as possible the manual for field weakening option!!!
I was the only one with an electrical motorcycle
There was one Carbon Tesla running a 10,6 but has a lot of traction Problem up to 1/8 mile before he gets grip. On sticky track he will be definitely faster ...
 

Attachments

  • 8DB0A931-86F5-4FBE-B388-1DF4B664159C.jpeg
    8DB0A931-86F5-4FBE-B388-1DF4B664159C.jpeg
    47.6 KB · Views: 2,466
  • 292D3F54-542B-473A-A9C0-B34A14BD8A2A.jpeg
    292D3F54-542B-473A-A9C0-B34A14BD8A2A.jpeg
    78.1 KB · Views: 2,466
  • 4EA3FDCA-DD29-43A0-B1E4-9553C4041EC6.jpeg
    4EA3FDCA-DD29-43A0-B1E4-9553C4041EC6.jpeg
    39.6 KB · Views: 2,466
  • FFB1585C-C3EC-4619-AE72-0D96BEC52C31.jpeg
    FFB1585C-C3EC-4619-AE72-0D96BEC52C31.jpeg
    37.5 KB · Views: 2,466
Nice. Did you get more grip when shortening the wheel base?
Look forward to see what time you get with field weakening.

Btw any pics of that carbon Tesla? I've seen video of a Tesla running 10.7 I think. That car was "stock", but stripped for everything inside the cabin to lighten the load. Carbon roof, door panels, frunk and trunk should save some weight. Wonder if they went all in and got those carbon ceramic brake rotors? Maybe even carbon wheels? I've heard carbon weight savings of 40-50 kilos, and as all that weight is rotational mass it could actually pay larger dividends then carbon fiber panels.

I look forward to see who goes all in with the new model 3 when the awd version arrives, swap for carbon panels, carbon ceramic brakes and carbon rims. I think model 3 might have potential for setting quick lap times at tracks as well as their battery cooling is improved and it is a lighter car then the MS. With carbon brake rotors, wheels and panels it should accelerate even faster, handle better and put less strain on controller, brakes etc. According to musk model 3 handles better then Bmw 3 series.
 
Yes I got no spinning wheel (more grip) by shorten again the wheel base! At first run I got spinning wheel and run only 13,1 seconds.
Sorry I did not make a photo of the Carbon Tesla.
They are using magnesium wheels I think but need 19” rims and it seems that there are not existing any special drag tires so they are running on normal slicks. They told me that als the carry important equipment got a real canon layer and not a water transfer print carbon layer.
 
The stance of you bike is awesome. Aggressiv, dark low rider. Seems ready to rumble that bike.


YANp1Jf.jpg
 
Thanks a lot for that compliment.
I hope to get it faster also with the actually setup via solving the problem with over current and activating field weakening.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4297.JPG
    IMG_4297.JPG
    112.5 KB · Views: 2,403
Regarding a comment from NEDRA member it seem that I have actually the fastest hub motor ev on 1/4 mile.
Only a time issue that somebody will break it but let´s say I´ll try to decrease the time in future, too :wink:
Have to find now other P- and I-values to solve the problem with hitting secondary current protection at 900Arms.
 
Here you can fin a short movie clip about the last weekend:
https://youtu.be/2cKYegvmx3k
 
Got now new toy equipment and already made a short test with our family van blocked by car and speed limit :D
Have to find now a good position at motorcycle to get it fixed.
https://youtu.be/I8HfYE3COk0
 
SEASON 2018 GAME OVER

I do not need pity, I am looking forward!
Yesterday I made two successful test runs on my test area @ Bamberg Aeroclub airplane field , starting @ 115V ( not fully charged).
After the two runs the batteries were near to empty (109 V DC vs 117,6 V DC.
I wanted to bring them back to storage mode voltage (around 107VDC).
Therefore I drove again.
During the acceleration the controller switched off and I thought it was the undervoltage limit (99V) of the controller.
So I stopped, switch on the system again and start acceleration more soft, only cruising the 1,1km landing field to the end to get the voltage down. On the way back the bike getting slow until stillstand and it felt like activating regeneration!
Well to be honest I am not the strongest man and it would cost me a lot of power to move the 363 lbs bike back on my trailer, where the transporting ramp has 20 degree.
I brought it first very slow in front of the seesaw and push it from the back much slower onto it.

Today I checked the rotation of the motor and what should I say ... It’s very hard to turn it at free wheel.
Also when I switched on the controller there will come a tone from it (the controller) and a red light.
So in the evening I will try to read out the error code and hopefully get a good feedback that the controller is alright!
As I said I am looking forward.
That’s not the end for me and I will start to continue with my work but it’s the end by using a hubmotor!
To be continued ... and it will take time!
For every progress I will inform you

So enjoy the short video:

https://youtu.be/Vjs1iPXfV2A

Btw: 0-100kph = 4,4 sec
Another video on Youtube show the smoke coming out of the motor and failure code said short circuit at motor windings
 
Well... of course this is frustrating, but better the motor than the controller! I was surprised what the hubbie could take up to now and I wonder what your motor choice will be. Rock on Rovii :twisted: !
 
Both has the same price!
Hopefully the controller will alive and not also damaged.
A short video showing smoke is coming out of the motor:
https://youtu.be/WNyHEaxCDNM

He shows error code 2220 (Short circuit of motor windings).
I have to remove the wires to see it´s only motor problem!

Otherwise I have to think for a cheaper option with motor controller choice!
 
Back
Top