Dr350 --->DR8000

Joined
Jun 13, 2018
Messages
10
So here is my build thread for a direct drive hub motorcycle conversion.
I started off with a 1996 Dr350. Took out 110lb worth of ICE parts and am now in the process the conversion.
I'm using a Qs8000 motor and a BAC8000 controller so the logical name I came up with was DR8000.

I've been thinking of doing a conversion since I saw the first electric motor cycle race at the Isle of Man TT race in 2010.
For this project I decided to go with a hub motor, a) for simplicity and b) I love the idea of a really silent dirbike which will not scare wildlife away when exploring the mountains.

Some Specs:
Weight of Electric parts:
QS8000: 44.8lb
BAC8000: 4.65lb
5 X 72V 24Ah NCR21700A cell batteries: 70.6lb

The total weight of the electric system would be ~120lb making the bike ~9lb lighter than the original. Although this weight will probably be accounted for with the battery casing, extra controller heatsink and msc parts.
I haven't decided if I will carry the charger on board permanently or keep it remote so that I can charge at home most of the time with the possibility of put it on the rear rack for when I want to bring it with me.

Power:

This motor is rated for 8000 watts however I'm sure as most of you know this is more of a suggestion. The batteries I am putting in can sustain 50A each so 250A sustained which would get me ~400 phase amps of continuous power and a peak power of ??? (Undecided at the moment) I'm planning on using Statorade after doing some initial tests to see how effective it is on a larger high power system like this.

Speed:

The rated top speed of the motor is ~90km/h. I hope to test this soon and will possibly implement some field weakening to go beyond this as required. My experience with smaller dirtbikes is that they feel sketchy past 90km/h so I feel the 90km/h speed limit something I can live with most of the time.

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The second order of business was making a decent torque arm. The ones that came with the motor were definitely not suitable.
This one on the LHS is going to be the primary torque arm as the axle flats are much larger on this side. The other side will get one also but more just for piece of mind and to ensure that the axle lines up and the wheel stays true to the rest of the frame.
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I decided to mount the controller where a radiator might sit on a bike with liquid cooling. I will have to check its crash clearence before deciding if it needs re enforcement.
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Progress: got the hub motor laced and put the new tires on. Also almost finished my battery case. Still need to modify the tank a bit so that it sits properly, it is coming along. :)
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Looking great! Excited to see how it performs for you.
 
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