Thanks, I was an aircraft structure specialist in the USAF, but I am just now learning to weld. I did lots of fabrication work in the past so it's nice to know I can still do it when I need to.kfong wrote:Nice craftsmanship!
Looks like a class machine.PHC wrote:Hi liveforphysics,
I used a CM185 swing arm that I modified to monoshock. It saved me alot of work doing it that way and matches the size of the Honda Solo.
Nice work and defintiely will follow your progress. I ride an '81 Goldwing and the "pod" or tank as you call it is very long and wide. Maybe with the dash lid removed it can narrow down to proportions more suited to this project. Eaither way, you'll find the solutions that work for your build.PHC wrote:I ordered many parts off eBay from Classicscooterparts including the new rims and fenders. I have most of the parts I need now, but I still would like a new handlebar. I received the silver powder paint for the frame just now. The next part I need to make is the motor mount for the PRM132. i am still thinking about how to mount the batteries so they are invisible. I have a plastic tank cover from a 1982 Honda Goldwing I got for $10 off eBay coming this week. If the size is right I will hide the controller and possibly some batteries as well. I may get small hard shell saddle bags for the batteries.
I agree so I am going to set them forward of the rear axle. I may put 2 batteries under the fake tank I am going to build. Balance on a small bike is essential so weight distribution is my main concern.oatnet wrote:Yeah, I keep looking at this layout, and thinking that is exactly what I would like in a light motorbike. I think the power of the 50cc version wouldn' t have been adequate, but with electric.
I have some balance concerns with the battery weight in Panniers - I think you will underload your front wheel, unless the pack is very light.
If you like the style, but don’t want to build from scratch have a look at the Honda S90 from 1969. It has a very similar layout and is a very small light bike. I considered it before I decided to build the Solo replica. All the replacement parts are available from classicscooterparts on ebay including new wheels, seats handle bars. The frames go for under $75 some times. The great thing is its better then converting a bicycle because it has real brakes and the speedometer is taped off the front wheel. edit: Found one.johnrobholmes wrote:Awesome project! That is my style of bike
Thanks for the information. The controller is the Alltrax AXE-7234. Its programmable so I can limit the current draw to a percentage of the max. I don't plan on going full throttle everywhere I drive so wont that be a big factor in how badly I stress the cells? I could also make 2 smaller packs in series parallel. Two 48 volt packs would draw half the current from each pack and double my range and C rate wouldn't it?oatnet wrote:Volts will give calculated unloaded RPMs, but under load you still need watts to achieve higher RPMs and efficiency. While I applaud your use of LiFePO4, as you mention the 2c cont. discharge rate (40a on 20ah cells) on the pack will be an issue. At 72v, that would only give you 2.8kw into your motor. At lower speeds where your motor is, say 50% efficient, that will give you 1.4kw at the shaft - less than 2HP. Maybe that is enough power for a 180lb moto, but I have 70lb ebikes with more.
Which leads me to ask, how will you limit current to keep the batteries at the rated discharge? I don't see a BMS listed, so I assume the controller will draw what it wants. If you put a mere 100a controller on this, you will be pulling 5c continious, which will age the cells pretty fast - you might only get a 100 cycles or so from your pack at that rate. Headways do 5c and are lighter/smaller, a123 prisimatics do 20c+ and are lighter/smaller still.
That s90 frame doesn't inspire me like the beautiful frame you are building now does... Thanks for brightening my world with it!