bluetooth BMS?

I have received 5 boards on saturday, but done nothing with them so far. This is just a quicky update for parties that would be interested.

Looking the boards over, the mosfets are probably SOT428 or TO252 packages. They are already smallish for any amount of current handling that I'm likely to ever use. THen you get to this awesome picture they sent me. Notice how none of the C-, P- or B- connections are used to interconnect the boards. It's just a balance board at this point. And that's 100% fine with me. All I want for LTO is a balancing board anyway. If you can read that squiggly stuff, please post a translation!

Board%20wiring%20and%20interconnections.png


Feature number 3 says "balance the current 60mA-1.2A". Looking at the tiny shunt resistors and mosfets on the board, this is pretty laughable. No way is 1.2 amps possible except for maybe .1 seconds before something burned out. I'd believe 120mA, but NOT 1.2A.

I need to get 7S balance cables for it. They got lost somewhere. OH well...not very expensive and I don't have any since no battery pack I've ever run across is 7S. Otherwise, this is what I got.

7S%20modular%20BMS.png


On a final note...
Feature number seven says this "Subsequent expansion of feature boards, such as the Bluetooth interface board, APP mobile software can be obtained from the store." I got an APK for the boards and I have BT modules from my 16/20S smart BMS's. I'll be plugging in a BT module and loading up the app on my phone. Who knows...it might work!

Sorry for the craptastic pictures, better ones to come soon.
 
Sorry about that. The balance leads are only 6" long. Will yours come before i can send them?

The description may cover future iterations. Larger balance current, add on Mosfets boards, etc.
It would be nice if they copied the bt and sw smart bms use.
Keep us updated.
Mike might want a 33s model if it works. Mosfets rating no issue for him, as he has an enable wire on his charger.
 
Phew, I've gone through all 18 pages of this thread today to make sure this is the BMS I should order. My bike is 24s 10AH lifepo4 powered, and I never run more than 65A peak or 25A continuous. I'm looking forward to be able to check how charging is going without having to go outside this (southern hemisphere) winter :)

So with that in mind, will the 70A version be good enough, or will the 150A version offer better reliability?
 
ElectricGod said:
I am moved into my new house and found my box of batteries. I had no problem connecting to the BMS on my 16,000mah 16S LIPO pack. My phone connected immediately. My guess is the BT module was either fully awake or in some kind of low power receive only mode.

I wired up the 18s version of "BMS battery" smart BMS. when I try to connect with the android application from their website, it does not remain connected and a message "connection refused by xiaoxiang BMS" shortly sowes up. I tried the "smart BMS" application and the behavior is the same : it does not remain connected.

did u figure out how did u woken up ur BT module ?

EDIT : 4hours later and 3 different applications attempts, I got success with the one of the link below :
https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/smart-bms-software-download/
NOTE : some explanations given (such as BT module behavior, ...) w. the link above
looks nice...
 
patrickza said:
Phew, I've gone through all 18 pages of this thread today to make sure this is the BMS I should order. My bike is 24s 10AH lifepo4 powered, and I never run more than 65A peak or 25A continuous. I'm looking forward to be able to check how charging is going without having to go outside this (southern hemisphere) winter :)

So with that in mind, will the 70A version be good enough, or will the 150A version offer better reliability?

The BMS won't be physically larger by going to 150 amps vs 70A. All that's different is the number of mosfets. Considering the cost difference and my general point of view that more is always better, I'd personally buy the 150 amp version. I'm pretty happy with this BMS, but haven't really tested them a lot yet. Moving killed all EV activity for a good while!
 
made_in_the_alps_legacy said:
ElectricGod said:
I am moved into my new house and found my box of batteries. I had no problem connecting to the BMS on my 16,000mah 16S LIPO pack. My phone connected immediately. My guess is the BT module was either fully awake or in some kind of low power receive only mode.

I wired up the 18s version of "BMS battery" smart BMS. when I try to connect with the android application from their website, it does not remain connected and a message "connection refused by xiaoxiang BMS" shortly sowes up. I tried the "smart BMS" application and the behavior is the same : it does not remain connected.

did u figure out how did u woken up ur BT module ?

EDIT : 4hours later and 3 different applications attempts, I got success with the one of the link below :
https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/smart-bms-software-download/
NOTE : some explanations given (such as BT module behavior, ...) w. the link above
looks nice...

Never had this problem with the correct app. I posted some ways back pictures of the app I use. I tried the other apps and could not get them to work. Maybe that's what you've been trying too...aka the wrong apps.
 
One more question, is the screen useful or can everything be displayed on an android phone? I'm particularly thinking of the need to track down a weak cell, can I view all cell voltages simultaneously on a phone?
 
PRJzzQ4.png


Brand new pack (50Ah) first charge.

So no, you dont need the lcd, but it is much more practical then using the app
 
Thanks for that flippy, looks like I won't need the screen afterall!
 
patrickza said:
Thanks for that flippy, looks like I won't need the screen afterall!

I got the LCD for all 3 of this style of BMS that I have. Mount it someplace meaningful and you don't need your phone except for when you want to make a change or want more detailed information. If you are using your phone all the time, then yes, it is a superior interface, but for quick checks of status, the LCD is super convenient. I recommend getting one and then deciding if you really want to live without it.
 
cwah said:
flippy said:
PRJzzQ4.png


Brand new pack (50Ah) first charge.

So no, you dont need the lcd, but it is much more practical then using the app

Which BMS is this?

These...

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Smart-Display-300A-8-24S-Cells-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Board-Balance-BMS-Coulomb-Meter-Lithium-iron/2856009_32827394534.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.39cf3de2laE1VG

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Smart-Display-16-32S-Cells-300A-200A-150A-100A-70A-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Board-Balance-BMS/2856009_32826469363.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.39cf3de2laE1VG

There's lots of sellers on aliexpress that sell this BMS. I know of several people and myself that buy from IC GOGOGO specifically. They do a good job and don't mess around like a lot of Chinese sellers do. Buying experience is never perfect with the Chinese, but IC GOGOGO is better than most. I'll buy from them again.


I'm about to place an order for 4 20S smart BMS. If anyone wants one or anything else from IC GOGOGO, go look at what they have and then PM me. You can paypal me money and I'll add what you want to my order. Don't bother if you are NOT in the USA.

This is the BMS I'm ordering. They have been discussed in this thread a lot.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/16S-Lipo-LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery-Protection-Board-60V-48V-Li-ion-Cell-Smart-Phone-APP-Computer/2856009_32872975737.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2b6f3de2aYQcmU
 
Replaced P- mosfets, replaced shunts, upgraded copper busses and added 5.5mm bullets for B- and P- connections.

16-20S%20smart%20BMS%20upgrade%204.jpg


16-20S%20smart%20BMS%20upgrade%205.jpg


Original vs upgraded shunts.

16-20S%20smart%20BMS%20upgrade%203.jpg
 
are those EC5 plugs? what is your limit for using those? (in amps)
i see they start getting melty around 40+ amps.
 
flippy said:
are those EC5 plugs? what is your limit for using those? (in amps)
i see they start getting melty around 40+ amps.

If you are asking me a question, then both those BMS have JST connectors on them.

5.5mm bullet connectors are good for 150 amps.
 
Very, very interesting thread.

Actually, I just bought one of those BMS 2 days ago, without even knowing they were already discussed here. Pretty happy to see that apparently that wasn't too bad of a choice.

I've purchased the 300A model, for my LiFePO4 23S 2P (72V 40AH) A123 pouch cells battery pack.
This one:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.147.63171b15jsMHbW&id=554867081787&ns=1&abbucket=6#detail

I think the wiring and configuration should be pretty straight forward, but there is only one thing that I'm not sure of yet:

My plan is to use two of these batteries in parrallel, for a total of 80AH. So I'll need 2 of these BMS in the end. The thing I'm worrying about is the bluetooth: will it work fine if I have two BMS working at the same time? Is the app able to switch from one BMS to another? Can I change the bluetooth device name in order to know which BMS is which? Also, is is possible to change the password for something slightly more secure than 1234?

Any relevant information regarding this particular matter would be greatly appreciated.
 
Dui said:
Very, very interesting thread.

Actually, I just bought one of those BMS 2 days ago, without even knowing they were already discussed here. Pretty happy to see that apparently that wasn't too bad of a choice.

I've purchased the 300A model, for my LiFePO4 23S 2P (72V 40AH) A123 pouch cells battery pack.
This one:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.147.63171b15jsMHbW&id=554867081787&ns=1&abbucket=6#detail

I think the wiring and configuration should be pretty straight forward, but there is only one thing that I'm not sure of yet:

My plan is to use two of these batteries in parrallel, for a total of 80AH. So I'll need 2 of these BMS in the end. The thing I'm worrying about is the bluetooth: will it work fine if I have two BMS working at the same time? Is the app able to switch from one BMS to another? Can I change the bluetooth device name in order to know which BMS is which? Also, is is possible to change the password for something slightly more secure than 1234?

Any relevant information regarding this particular matter would be greatly appreciated.

Why do you think you need 2 BMS? What's your max current draw? If it's less than 300 amps, then 1 BMS will work. If I'm running LIPO. I like to have each string of packs on their own BMS if I'm using dumb BMS. With smart BMS, I no longer care as much. There's no reason why you can't run from a single BMS if you are running at less than 300 amps. Since you are running LIFE (meh), I see no reason for dual BMS.

I have probably 10 smart BMS. The little 16-20 smart BMS talked about here so much don''t let you name them. My best option is to record the MAC addresses for all of them and that's how I keep track of which one is which. I also label the BMS with the MAC address. For these better 24 and 32S BMS, that's not a problem...name them as you see fit. REgardless of BMS type, connecting and disconnecting from one to connect to another is straight forward and easy. The 16-20S BMS don't even need a password to connect...talk about NOT secure!

There's an option in the phone app that lets you name the BMS something meaningful to you...such as BMS1 o24S100AH. The default name is BMS-ANT. The "Modify BT ADDR" is the option for this. And yes to changing the password.

24S%20main%20page.png
 
ElectricGod said:
Why do you think you need 2 BMS? What's your max current draw? If it's less than 300 amps, then 1 BMS will work. If I'm running LIPO. I like to have each string of packs on their own BMS if I'm using dumb BMS. With smart BMS, I no longer care as much. There's no reason why you can't run from a single BMS if you are running at less than 300 amps. Since you are running LIFE (meh), I see no reason for dual BMS.

Mainly for two reasons:
1-I'll have two battery blocks, which I may swap from time to time depending on what I'll want to do (lighten the bike, go for long range, go for 144V instead of 72, etc.) This gives me flexibility.
2-I plan to change my controller soon for at least 5-600Amps (battery continuous current), if I manage to find a good one.
Right now with the sabvoton one BMS is enough, but I'd like to leave as much room as I can for a better setup in a near future.
I actually see no reason for not having 2 BMS, it's not like those things are super heavy or expensive.

ElectricGod said:
For these better 24 and 32S BMS, that's not a problem...name them as you see fit. REgardless of BMS type, connecting and disconnecting from one to connect to another is straight forward and easy. The 16-20S BMS don't even need a password to connect...talk about NOT secure!

There's an option in the phone app that lets you name the BMS something meaningful to you...such as BMS1 o24S100AH. The default name is BMS-ANT. The "Modify BT ADDR" is the option for this. And yes to changing the password.

Great, thanks for the info!
 
Dui said:
ElectricGod said:
Why do you think you need 2 BMS? What's your max current draw? If it's less than 300 amps, then 1 BMS will work. If I'm running LIPO. I like to have each string of packs on their own BMS if I'm using dumb BMS. With smart BMS, I no longer care as much. There's no reason why you can't run from a single BMS if you are running at less than 300 amps. Since you are running LIFE (meh), I see no reason for dual BMS.

Mainly for two reasons:
1-I'll have two battery blocks, which I may swap from time to time depending on what I'll want to do (lighten the bike, go for long range, go for 144V instead of 72, etc.) This gives me flexibility.
2-I plan to change my controller soon for at least 5-600Amps (battery continuous current), if I manage to find a good one.
Right now with the sabvoton one BMS is enough, but I'd like to leave as much room as I can for a better setup in a near future.
I actually see no reason for not having 2 BMS, it's not like those things are super heavy or expensive.

ElectricGod said:
For these better 24 and 32S BMS, that's not a problem...name them as you see fit. REgardless of BMS type, connecting and disconnecting from one to connect to another is straight forward and easy. The 16-20S BMS don't even need a password to connect...talk about NOT secure!

There's an option in the phone app that lets you name the BMS something meaningful to you...such as BMS1 o24S100AH. The default name is BMS-ANT. The "Modify BT ADDR" is the option for this. And yes to changing the password.

Great, thanks for the info!

I haven't done this...maybe someday soon...but get a blue tooth terminal app for your phone. It's just a bunch of AT commands like back in old RSR232 modem days, but the BT name can be changed on any BT module to whatever you want. I don't know what BT module any of these modules use, but this is for the HC05/06 modules. The AT commands will be the same most likely.

http://www.instructables.com/id/AT-command-mode-of-HC-05-Bluetooth-module/
 
after 3 battery cycles of satisfaction, the BMS does not accept load anymore:
it powers off as soon as load is applied and an "IC front-end error" appears in the event log...
does anyone knows what that is ?
 
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