Also a couple cells that i disassembled the hot glue tore some of the battery wrap on a couple i tossed them tho probably best bet?
Am I getting safer? I got l thicker nickel strips. Added in battery spacers and top insulation.
Yea I replaced that. So here is something i dont get.... these Chinese cells! I max my welder out and they wouldn't stick but it's not the basic Chinese welder it's actually a good one they say. The 709A. The basic (forget model number) puts out 220A on the highest setting the 709A (mine) puts out 650A on the highest setting (obviously low voltage).flippy wrote: ↑Jun 21 2018 4:12pmbonus tip: also make sure you cover the entire cell with strip. it should not be possible to see the positive end of the cell. you can see you only cover half of the left bottom cell for example. also make the parralel strips longer so it goes over the side by about an inch. that way you can attach the balance wires on the side.
That's gotta have some thick stuff! I know when I do 3 welds the bottom of the battery gets pretty hot at 6xx amps...parabellum wrote: ↑Jun 22 2018 10:42amThat is not optimal, in KWeld tread they work around 1200A pulses for .15-.2 tabs and striving for up to 2000A for thicker Nickel. They are shorter but results are better then long low current discharges.
That is the interesting part, with higher Amps less energy is used to make better weld. K-weld is energy based spotwelder, you adjust the Joules you want in a weld, and pulse is reduced in time at for given current/resistance condition. Pulse is much shorter, giving no time to heat dissipation.