What is the Best BMS for LG Chem batteries?

Lonewolf

10 µW
Joined
May 2, 2019
Messages
5
These LG Chem Modules are Used... They were purchased from Tech Direct.
https://www.techdirectclub.com/lg-chem-module-16-cells-solar-rv-golf-car-battery-60-vdc-each-2-6-kwh/
The original voltage: 60.8 (3.8V/cell).
Voltage now averages about 59V.

I would like to put these in an EV.
I plan on a series parallel configuration. 6 in series for 360V in parallel with another 6 to increase the Ahr from 40 to 80Ahr. it will be used with a Siemens 5W13? motor (Ford Electric motor). I'll use a RMS DX100 capable of 300Arms continuous (regen will be used). I'll also be using a PFC30 30A charger.

Yewsuck has had experience with these units and suggested a Chargery BMS. However, his configurations were quite a bit different than mine. (Thanks for the Help yewsuck!!!)

I was interested in some of the new bluetooth BMS's on the market now. However, I am concerned that they will have an issue with the high voltage or current I will be using.

Does anyone have a suggestion on the best BMS for this application?
 
I sure hope some of the great Gurus on this board can help this gentleman. He is still learning and needs your help. He is trying to build a 96s2p system for an auto conversion. Each module is 16s ,hence, 6 modules of 16s with another set parrelled. The chargery i am using with my system only goes up to 24s, so i use three for my 96s system. I am using my batteries in a quite different use. He needs a BMS that can monitor and might need a BMS that can handle and display 96s and is more auto friendly. Thank you guys.
 
anybody have to pin outs for the bms from the battery
think 15 wires out of front and 12 wires out the back??
bms would be nice but want to at least monitor each cell

thx
 
Your build parts list seems really poorly selected with respect to cost/performance ratio.

You can buy a whole running Nissan LEAF for the price of that motor controller choice.

A wrecked Chevy Bolt would give you a 60kWh pack, inverter, harness, dash, and a 200hp motor.
You can buy a whike salvaged Bolt for less than that motor controller cost alone, and it would give you double the HP.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-cars-auction/chevrolet/bolt+ev
 
swo said:
anybody have to pin outs for the bms from the battery
think 15 wires out of front and 12 wires out the back??
bms would be nice but want to at least monitor each cell

thx
I have a pinout from EV-West and they have connectors available for 25$ each pair (one front and one rear connector). you will have email a request as they do not have them shown on their website.

I hope this helps...
 
liveforphysics said:
Your build parts list seems really poorly selected with respect to cost/performance ratio.

You can buy a whole running Nissan LEAF for the price of that motor controller choice.

A wrecked Chevy Bolt would give you a 60kWh pack, inverter, harness, dash, and a 200hp motor.
You can buy a whike salvaged Bolt for less than that motor controller cost alone, and it would give you double the HP.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-cars-auction/chevrolet/bolt+ev
I would agree. I started this project/hobby in 2006. there were almost no AC motors available at that time. I got a really good deal on NOS Ford/Siemens motor and slowly acquired more of the system over the years as I restored my Vette in parallel.
3 years ago, I had my system assembled. however, I needed to troubleshoot my motor issues. the battery pack (marine deep-cell batteries) froze, broke the casings and leaked acid all over the place. this was quite a setback and I have slowly built up a SLA pack to bench test my motor. now that I got it working, I decided to upgrade from SLA (1020 lbs) to the LG chem (480 lbs)...
 
In 2006, the parts you've got would be great. In the last 13years, a LOT has improved!
It's kinda like if you started a computer build in 2006, and then 13 years pass, then you would need to re-consider the part choices and performance objectives in the project.

Lonewolf said:
liveforphysics said:
Your build parts list seems really poorly selected with respect to cost/performance ratio.

You can buy a whole running Nissan LEAF for the price of that motor controller choice.

A wrecked Chevy Bolt would give you a 60kWh pack, inverter, harness, dash, and a 200hp motor.
You can buy a whike salvaged Bolt for less than that motor controller cost alone, and it would give you double the HP.
https://erepairables.com/salvage-cars-auction/chevrolet/bolt+ev
I would agree. I started this project/hobby in 2006. there were almost no AC motors available at that time. I got a really good deal on NOS Ford/Siemens motor and slowly acquired more of the system over the years as I restored my Vette in parallel.
3 years ago, I had my system assembled. however, I needed to troubleshoot my motor issues. the battery pack (marine deep-cell batteries) froze, broke the casings and leaked acid all over the place. this was quite a setback and I have slowly built up a SLA pack to bench test my motor. now that I got it working, I decided to upgrade from SLA (1020 lbs) to the LG chem (480 lbs)...
 
I say scrap it all and get some worthwhile hardware. 15 years ago it was interesting to have any EV at all just because they were so rare. That time has long passed so why put effort into making something redundant and lame?

If you see things differently and have a good use for the car then by all means go ahead, but consider this point of view when figuring out your objectives.
 
Same pack, same configuration, I rebuilt the modules so instead of 1p 16s they are 2P 8S with a connector on each module to Check them easily. 16 model S BMB’s onto a custom BMS to control them. The modules have 4 10k thermistors so comparable with the Tesla BMB’s but obviously only room for 2 per BMB, I am yet to decide on what ones I will actually read. The problem will always be cooling but I’m running the p85s motor and for short durations. The pin out diagrams are available, the plugs I have found on cnconnections.com but it’s probably easier to swap the plugs out for something off the shelf or make fly leads to plug directly onto your bms. I don’t think they are going to be readily available as the modules are replacement packs for the recalls before they found out the BMS was at fault, hence why the odd cell is out of balance. Most modules are fine but some will have a cell well out of balance.
 
Been working on mine as a 32S2P total system (4 LG Chem 60V batteries from Tech Direct Club) for a 120V 1000A burst. Used an Orion 2 72 Pin BMS. Used this as a wiring guide after I verified it with Cell Tap Validation Tool. Should get some good kick out of this battery pack. Using it for an electric sandrail project.

If you needed a 48S2P, you will likely need the 96-120 cell configuration for the BMS. Don't shock (kill) yourself, that battery will do some (permanent) damage at 180V and 1000A bursts.

 
I built two 11S battery packs with LGChem cells.
Both packs does not use BMS.
Both packs are pretty well balanced for over 3 years right now all cells within 10mV difference.
good enough for me.
honestly I dont see any need for BMS
 
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