Building a LiPo pack with high discharge (burst 300A) and BMS

pbert

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May 8, 2019
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Hi,

Based on your experience with LiPo packs what would be good cells to use to build a 52V with around 15AH and continous discharge of 120A and bursts of 300A ?

As a bonus if anyone has experience with a good BMS that can handle these currents also would be great to know.

It is going in an Electric Motion Sport bike.

Thanks.
 
double or more any c rate spec

consider bms for charge only

discharge directly from cell tabs

regularly monitored for balance and ir
 
what do you mean by directly discharge from cell tabs ? I have to connect the cells together with some wire so what do you mean by direct from tabs ? thanks.
 
ah sorry, i understand what you meant. You mean just to discharge without BMS, directly from cells to controller. ok thanks. How about any particular LiPo cells, any suggestions for ones that are better and from where to buy in states or Canada ?
thanks.
 
These figures are no problem. If you only use a battery once.

How long do you want this battery to last?
 
@flippy, more than once :) why are you guys saying the battery is not going to last ? For example if i use cells rated for 15A and 2C then i put 10 in parrallel it should be fine ? would give 150 at C and 300A at 2C, or am i not understanding something ?
 
15Ah is pretty small for a motorcycle. You should be able to find 22V 8ah 30C LiPo packs at Hobby King, or maybe even larger now, I haven't checked in a while. 4 of those packs (2P, 2S) will give you 16Ah 44V. (52V at max charge). That should give you a max of 480A. That's 300A with some headroom.

Warren
 
@www.recumbents.com awesome, thats the info i was looking for! thanks much. 15AH is small but it is for a buddy that just does trials and wants a smaller battery to be able to run for about 30 minutes only and then swap out.

im going to go take a look at the cells you suggested. thanks again.

and any suggestion for a bms to charge or just get a balance charger ?
 
pbert said:
@flippy, more than once :) why are you guys saying the battery is not going to last ? For example if i use cells rated for 15A and 2C then i put 10 in parrallel it should be fine ? would give 150 at C and 300A at 2C, or am i not understanding something ?
no, stuff likie hobbyking pouches will not live long in these conditions. expect well under 100 cycles. probably less unless you have a strong steel frame to keep the pouches from puffing up, so say 50 or so cycles before you cant trust the battery anymore.

if you want a battery that lasts 5 years or more you need to skip pouches and focus on high discharge 18650 cells.
 
@flippy i looked at 18650 cells but i would need a lot to be able to support 300A peak discharge. you have any suggestions of 18650 that could do this ? i was looking at Sanyo NCR2070C 20700 3500mAh 30A but would need 10P14S for a total of 140 cells, which gives 35AH battery and that is not the goal of this pack im trying to build.

Are you saying the packs from hobby king are no good or LiPo in general ? The batteries that come with the Electric Motion bike are LiPo so i imagine it is ok to use LiPo ? or im missing something ? thanks.
 
Everything is a compromise. If he's using this battery for racing 100 cycles may last him 5 years. Be sure he knows that LiPo has much higher power density and less voltage sag but that it's more volatile than the newer cell formulations. There are lots of instructions on the web about the care, feeding and storage of LiPo packs. Hobby King has several levels of LiPo cells. There are other places to buy LiPo as well. I agree that the cheaper ones should be avoided. Generally the higher C rate packs are of better quality.

You can bulk charge the battery and then balance with an RC style charger periodically. Hopefully his controller has a low voltage cutoff.
 
www.recumbents.com yes it is a Kelly controller and i will verify about the low voltage cutoff, either way ill wire in a voltmeter and little alarm sound circuit in order to trigger at 3.1V.

Do you have any suggestions for better quality LiPo ?

thanks.
 
pbert said:
@flippy i looked at 18650 cells but i would need a lot to be able to support 300A peak discharge. you have any suggestions of 18650 that could do this ? i was looking at Sanyo NCR2070C 20700 3500mAh 30A but would need 10P14S for a total of 140 cells, which gives 35AH battery and that is not the goal of this pack im trying to build.

Are you saying the packs from hobby king are no good or LiPo in general ? The batteries that come with the Electric Motion bike are LiPo so i imagine it is ok to use LiPo ? or im missing something ? thanks.

no, you are looking at the wrong spec. why are you looking at capacity when you need to be looking at discharge currents?

also: if you have a kelly controller you are much better off just cranking up the voltage of the battery as high as the kelly will allow and just lower the battery amps so you dont have to deal with 300A cables and connectors.

lets go even further back to basics, i think you made some beginner errors.

what kelly and motor do you actually have to power and is there a power limit for the class the bike needs to run in?
 
Your last point is a good question. I dont know if there is a power limit in the class the guy is racing in. I'll ask him and then see.

He needs the high amps in order to produce more torque though, so i dont think upping the voltage and lowering amps fits the riding style. More amps equals more torque , more voltage equals more top speed. He needs torque, so more amps.

I'm not looking at the wrong spec. I mentioned both the capacity and the discharge (30A per cell). The goal of this battery build is to build one able to put out 120 continuous and 300A peak and have a low amp hours in order to make the battery lighter. So i was saying if i use cells that output 30A continuous and i put 10 in parralell i can build a battery that outputs 300A continous but that it breaks the other goal of this build which is to build a smaller capacity battery. hope that is more clear.
 
I actually have cells like this available for sale. 8Ah and 120A discharge Turnigy lipo cells. Im building a 20S 1p "mini monster" 72V 120A battery in my own thread as a matter of fact. Any 2p pack should be able to give you 300A burst, a 3p pack 360A no problem.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=100921&p=1476444#p1476444
 
pbert said:
He needs the high amps in order to produce more torque though, so i dont think upping the voltage and lowering amps fits the riding style. More amps equals more torque , more voltage equals more top speed. He needs torque, so more amps.
you are partially right. you are right in the aspect of power flow between the controller and the motor. there this rule applies.
this rule does NOT apply between the battery and the controller.
(this is a biginner mistake that happens a lot, so this is why i am asking basic questions.)

the controller always gets the battery voltage. the motor voltage is dependant on speed. so when stationary you only have a few volts in the motor so you need massive amps to get the watts you need to get moving. voltage x amps = power.
but the controller does not suffer from this. it always has the battery volts going in. so you can have a 100V from the battery and 100A draw wich means you get 10kW at the motor. with a 50V motor you would need 200A for the same power. the motor will accelerate the same.

torque is determend by the motor and the amps going into it, not the battery voltage. higher volts simply means you can reduce the current draw and possible get higher speed if the motor can take the power load. but that is simply limited with a rpm limit.
the trick here is to prevent sag in the battery so you can push as many watts into the motor side of the controller as possible.

pbert said:
I'm not looking at the wrong spec. I mentioned both the capacity and the discharge (30A per cell). The goal of this battery build is to build one able to put out 120 continuous and 300A peak and have a low amp hours in order to make the battery lighter. So i was saying if i use cells that output 30A continuous and i put 10 in parralell i can build a battery that outputs 300A continous but that it breaks the other goal of this build which is to build a smaller capacity battery. hope that is more clear.
those cells dont do 30A proper. you need serious high current cells (like the samsung 25R) that can deliver the load -constantly- without having massive voltage sag. so you need low capacity cells used in power tools. those dont heat up and can take high current abuse without wearing out in a few dozen cycles or burn your bike down due to overheating and dont sag under high loads. these cells can also be charged much more agressivly (up to 4A per cell!) without dying too fast. so 30 min full fast charge from 0% SoC is possible while staying within spec.
 
This is your battery right here:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphene-6000mah-6s-75c-lipo-pack-w-xt90.html
 
flat tire said:
This is your battery right here:https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphene-6000mah-6s-75c-lipo-pack-w-xt90.html

hobbyking never stops amazing me, i want to see 900A being passed over that poor little XT90 connector. :lol:
 
remember to half published C rates
 
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