Recognize Nickel Purity...

rg12

100 kW
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Jul 26, 2014
Messages
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IMG_20200913_145936.jpg

What you see in the photo is a solder spot that was soldered onto 0.15mm pure nickel and the nickel was bent on purpose in order to catch it with a long nose needle pliers from the side and pull it out.

Everytime I did this test on pure nickel it seemed like it got pulled off of a nickel plated strip.

I tested every nickel strip roll I receive with the salt water test and the sparks test (caught a fake once with the spark test) and of course when welding pure nickel there is the need for alot more power from the welder than junk plated strip.

I just don't get why it looks like it got pulled with a top layer of nickel plating.

If you are going to say it isn't pure nickel just try it before replying, let a drop of solder (I use Kester 63/37) and let it expand so I know it's well soldered and then fold the strip backwards to expose the sides of solder joint and peal it with a set of long nose pliers and see that you get the exact same thing.
A darker non reflective spot that has a trim around it like the solder spot was pulled with the nickel that plated that non reflective material underneath.
But it only looks like it, I'm 100% sure it's not nickel plated strip.

Years ago when I used nickel plated strips it was welded with the lowest setting possible on the welder and when switched to pure nickel it took my old welder to the max and that same pure nickel strip showed the same result when I did the solder drop test.

What do you guys think?
 
I think you should buy an XRF gun.
 
DogDipstick said:
I think you should buy an XRF gun.

Just googled that...$5000-$20,000 for that...
I will stick to my dremel and salt and asking here for advice :lol:
 
rg12 said:
DogDipstick said:
I think you should buy an XRF gun.

Just googled that...$5000-$20,000 for that...
I will stick to my dremel and salt and asking here for advice :lol:

( strong, real,) Hydrogen Peroxide+ Heat... ( not that drugstore brown bottle, but 12% or greater ) makes ferros metal rust. Fast. VErY fast. In seconds.

Cheaper option.

Maybe it is just the layer of metal oxidation that naturally comes tihe the nickel iun atmosphere.
 
put 2 pcs in a jar of vinegar and add a tbl spoon of salt. hook them up to laptop power supply or battery, if the solution goes clear green colour, its nickel acetate (pure ni) if it goes brown or muddy,its got steel in it. take care the alligator clips dont go in the solution.
 
DogDipstick said:
rg12 said:
DogDipstick said:
I think you should buy an XRF gun.

Just googled that...$5000-$20,000 for that...
I will stick to my dremel and salt and asking here for advice :lol:

( strong, real,) Hydrogen Peroxide+ Heat... ( not that drugstore brown bottle, but 12% or greater ) makes ferros metal rust. Fast. VErY fast. In seconds.

Cheaper option.

Maybe it is just the layer of metal oxidation that naturally comes tihe the nickel iun atmosphere.

Thanks man, found a source for 35% so should rust super fast I guess
 
DogDipstick said:
rg12 said:
DogDipstick said:
I think you should buy an XRF gun.

Just googled that...$5000-$20,000 for that...
I will stick to my dremel and salt and asking here for advice :lol:

( strong, real,) Hydrogen Peroxide+ Heat... ( not that drugstore brown bottle, but 12% or greater ) makes ferros metal rust. Fast. VErY fast. In seconds.

Cheaper option.

Maybe it is just the layer of metal oxidation that naturally comes tihe the nickel iun atmosphere.

Just followed your recommendation today and bought me 1 liter of 35% hydrogen peroxide :D
What did you mean by heat?
Heating the liquid or heating the metal and dropping it into the liquid? how hot is hot?
 
rg12 said:
Just followed your recommendation today and bought me 1 liter of 35% hydrogen peroxide :D
What did you mean by heat?
Heating the liquid or heating the metal and dropping it into the liquid? how hot is hot?

Hydrogen peroxide has a specific heat of decomposition. It breaks down into water and oxygen. Alot of heat will boil it away: Much less than that is necessary.

Hot plate > 212F or >100C should do it. It just speeds the natural reaction ( that is happening and naturally decomposing peroxide). Do not approach auto-ignition temperature of anything that may be in the environment, mixxing with it.

Dont bottle it or do it in a closed room: makes pure Oxygen: that which is explosively flammable when combined with something ( gasoline vapor, wood ignited, propane in an engine)... that like to ( burn) combust.

If it s not under pressure you will see it decompose. We used to use it to give an instant "patina" to antiques and then sell them for alot of money.

"As H2O2 is heated, it looses stability rapidly and violently. The rapid and violent loss of stability then causes increased pressure which in turn may rupture or explode the container in which the hydrogen peroxide is being heated if that container is sealed and/or not properly ventilated. Heating hydrogen peroxide causes it to loose stability and decompose into both oxygen and water, the oxygen is release is exothermic decomposition which can combust if it mixes with fire. Heating hydrogen peroxide with flames can therefore cause an explosion when the exothermic release of oxygen occurs. Simply contacting high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide with other oxidizing agents may cause an explosion, this is why hydrogen peroxide is used in propellants and explosives."

H2O2 also makes a great disinfectant.
 
DogDipstick said:
rg12 said:
Just followed your recommendation today and bought me 1 liter of 35% hydrogen peroxide :D
What did you mean by heat?
Heating the liquid or heating the metal and dropping it into the liquid? how hot is hot?

Hydrogen peroxide has a specific heat of decomposition. It breaks down into water and oxygen. Alot of heat will boil it away: Much less than that is necessary.

Hot plate > 212F or >100C should do it. It just speeds the natural reaction ( that is happening and naturally decomposing peroxide). Do not approach auto-ignition temperature of anything that may be in the environment, mixxing with it.

Dont bottle it or do it in a closed room: makes pure Oxygen: that which is explosively flammable when combined with something ( gasoline vapor, wood ignited, propane in an engine)... that like to ( burn) combust.

If it s not under pressure you will see it decompose. We used to use it to give an instant "patina" to antiques and then sell them for alot of money.

"As H2O2 is heated, it looses stability rapidly and violently. The rapid and violent loss of stability then causes increased pressure which in turn may rupture or explode the container in which the hydrogen peroxide is being heated if that container is sealed and/or not properly ventilated. Heating hydrogen peroxide causes it to loose stability and decompose into both oxygen and water, the oxygen is release is exothermic decomposition which can combust if it mixes with fire. Heating hydrogen peroxide with flames can therefore cause an explosion when the exothermic release of oxygen occurs. Simply contacting high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide with other oxidizing agents may cause an explosion, this is why hydrogen peroxide is used in propellants and explosives."

H2O2 also makes a great disinfectant.

Oh man what have I gotten myself into......

So, can I just not heat it and have it rust over a few hours instead of instantly when heated?
I don't wanna end up in the ER while all the doctors whispering about the guy who was cooking meth in a battery building workshop :lol:
 
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