13S2P // 13S4P
in parallel
= 13S6P
would mean your just paralleling with wire instead of strips
Very minimal difference for the extra conductor, but I'd use like 10awg wire to parallel the two packs, connect neg to neg and pos to pos and hook up a connector and go to it. In those terms, my masterpiece drawing below would be top right, freehand drawing.
you'll need to pay attention when charging those 2 packs unless you plan to charge them as a single unit. If you plan on leaving it as one unit, you could parallel each group, I did that with the Makita's that were in 5S2P, so I'd put two of those in series to make 10S2P then just connect the + and - of another set, so it'd be 10S4P but only connected at the positive and negative. But like I said I tried solid copper wire, going across each parallel set. Probably safer to connect + and - then each parallel set.
I screwed up the one on the left, just ignore every 2nd green horizontal line. Besides one end always ends up on the opposite side on 5S2P. I configured those Makita's in so many different ways :lol: :lol: :lol: The one on the right is what I ended up doing, because I did it once on the way of the left and had a group go bad and had lost a few Makita's 5S2P. So far left box is one brick of Makita 5S2P, the second box from the left is another brick of Makita 5S2P, and each group is wired together on each brick. The free hand drawing on the right and smaller, a masterpiece yes tyvm
Your battery
13S2P parallel with 13S4P
Yes I would put extra wire
one in the middle of the 2P
and another wire in the middle of 4P
to even out the electron flow, might not matter, I dont know, not much extra work.
Get some 10awg solid copper wire, solder to tabs
Get some insulted 10awg silicone wire, solder to solid copper wire as shown in my masterpiece drawing below.
