Here is a Prius MK1 Service Summary copied (anonymized) from http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Mk1 ... ssage/3991
Incomplete, but a good start!
Start of quote :
I live in Xxxxx Australia, and have helped some of the other Australian owners
on a number of issues. My direct email address is xxxxx@...
As to question of sourcing CV joints - they are from a 1998 Corolla, so easy to
source in Australia. The thing to remember is that many mechanical components
are from Corolla, but the internal combustion engine is from Echo.... it is just
the HV battery that is in a league of its own!
As to your questions about quantity and type of oil etc for service, the
following are my aggregated notes (including info from posts by others on the
group) on this subject, pulled into one document:
Prius Oil Change Ã¢â‚¬â€œ used Toyota Echo (all years) filter Toyota#90915-YZZE1 - but
oil still in good shape after 11,000km without a change in interim, so able to
go considerable mileage between changes, due to engine-off in traffic. I used
4.3 litres of "Caltex Havoline 5W40 Fully Synthetic" oil A$58 fm Auto-One; plus
STP (long-chain oil to prevent dry-starts) plus Nulon E10 (teflon
friction-reducer for used petrol engines), both of which I strongly recommend;
Oil plug needs 14mm spanner; Re-use the squash washer on the oil plug, unless
damaged. Need smaller c2.5-inch small-car filter removal tool (normal filter
grips are too large).
Others note Ryco filter Z386 (not specific for 1999 model, but stated as right
one for 2001-3 ones imported to Oz), or via US web site, NPN Toyota Prius Oil
Filter Brand: NPN #423553~A6000174968 Fits: 05/2000 - 07/2003 Toyota Prius
(Echo engine is claimed on motoring web site to have 10k km minor service
interval, but forum purists suggest oil+filter changes every 5k km, with 5W30
per manual but maybe thicker 10W40 if very hot climate Ã¢â‚¬â€œ need 3.5 litres for oil
Things to do at other major intervals, see:http://www.toyota.ca/cgi-bin/WebObjects ... tenanceMen
Note slightly different Toyota part numbers for oil filter for Mk2, but maybe
washer numbers and plug bolt is same:
Prius 2001-2005 4CYL (1NZFXE): Engine Oil Filter#:90915-YZZF2 Drain
Plug#:90341-12012 D/P Washer#:90430-12031
There is a 'crush washer' to be replaced on the oil-draining bolt. Rarely, this
gets forgotten and can result in slow leaks later. 5W30 is correct. Synthetic
oil (eg Mobil 1) is popular particularly with Prius drivers who intend to extend
their oil change intervals [up to 10k km], because it resists thermal breakdown
and stays the same viscosity better, through longer periods of use. The Prius
engine is famous for not releasing much 'wear metals. Whether or not you choose
to 'go long' is entirely your decision. Don't forget to change the engine air
filter as well.
Instructions to change Prius Oil and Filter:
Drain from oil pan, drain plug on bottom of engine, oil filter on front side of
engine, access from bottom while draining engine oil.
When removing oil filter, oil flows out. Make sure rubber seal comes away with
filter and discard.
Wet new oil filter rubber seal with engine oil as a light smear.
Only tighten by hand - but not overtight (read instructions).
Refit oil pan plug (14 mm), making sure crush-washer is fitted (else slow
Use funnel to pour new oil into top rocker cover.
Pour very slowly or oil will overflow.
Initially pour 3 litres (rec to use fully-synthetic, 5W30 Mobil 1 SuperSyn or
Castrol R-5w30 Synthetic)
Start engine (to fill oil filter with oil and to check for leaks).
Check level on dipstick, and add oil to 'full' mark.
SPARK PLUGS: best rec is to use NGK IFR5A11 (Iridium Type) good for 100,000km,
"Spark Plug for MK1 Prius (NHW10): I would rec using the NGK IFR5A11 (Iridium
Type) every time I get a misfire code it's because the wrong spark plugs are
used. The savings are not worth the trouble it can also ruin the coils if you
use the wrong plugs. You will get another 100,000km with no problems Ã¢â‚¬â€œ Xxxx
Xxxxx. Toyota Master/Hybrid Technician, Xxxxx"
TYRES: Recommended tyre pressure is 2.3bar all-around per Toyota, but NHW10
group suggests 2.6bar (and elsewhere 35psi-Front and 33psi-Rear but Xxxxx
Xxxxx goes as far as 38-hot or 40-cold, which is near max allowed pressure).
Recommended tyre upgrade for Prius is "Michelin HydroEdge 185/65R15" $113ea '800
treadware' 90,000 mile warranty, per web, but Xxxxx wonders if maybe 65 too low
a sidewall for alloy rims, so better 70 or 75 is better, to allow for potholes
and driveway edges etc. Xxxxx also thinks that 185 is a bit narrow, so could
tweak to 195 or 205? Peter recs "Bridgestone B391" in 165/65/R15 or "Yokohama
DNA ES 02 - 165/65/R15/81H"
HV BATTERY PROBLEMS: If the Prius HV battery is too weak to use the car:
If Turtle comes on, let car re-charge its battery, do not turn key off while
it is doing that for 5-10mins or longer.
If you do find that a flat HV battery causes car to not start:
A. Connect jumper leads from another car (which you keep running) to your 12 v
battery in the boot.
B. Keep the key OUT of the ignition
C. Press and hold the start button on the HV battery charger in the boot of the
car ( top left hand side above the HV battery) until the charge light comes on.
D. Wait (around 10-15 minutes) until the charged light flashes and beeps a
couple of times.
E. You should now be able to put the key in the ignition and start the car
F: Don't try to start the car while the charger is charging. It will put the
charger in a fault mode (red LED comes on)
LOSS OF POWER: A loss of engine power (ICE) output can be caused by any of the
following basic problems to be checked first:
(a) Air filter element for cleanliness;
(b) Air flow meter for cleanliness of the hot wire (Cleaning of the hot wire
airflow meter sensing wire is a delicate but not technically difficult procedure
and the procedure is posted on the Prius Mark I site using artist brush, not
Also seehttp://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowle ... &id=50&c=9
(c) All vacuum hoses for air leaks (loose hose connections or split hoses); (d).
Ensure that the air intake connections between the air cleaner and the engine
are tight so that all air must enter the engine via the air flow meter. Any
loose connections can allow air to bypass the air flow meter and even very small
air leaks in the induction tract (air cleaner to engine) can cause serious
engine performance problems.
1. Engine oil - 3.4 litres (if no filter change), 3.7 litres (if filter also
API SJ/ILSAC, GF-2, SAE 5W-20
API SJ/ILSAC, GF-2, SAE 5W-30
API SJ/ILSAC, GF-2, SAE10W-30
API SH, SAE10W-30
2. Coolant - 5.2 liter for engine, 2.6 liter for inverter assy and
motor/generator - Toyota genuine long life coolant, no freezing -12degC @30%,
3. Transaxle including differential gear - 3.5 litre - Toyota genuine
auto-fluid, type T-IV. The transaxle filler plug location is very difficult to
tell from the drawing in the manual. It seems it is visible between a couple of
unknown pipes. The fluid level should be 5-10mm below of the filler plug. The
oil drain plug is located on the center of a cover that is connected to
transaxle body by 12 bolts.
4. Brake fluid: Toyota brake fluid 2500H
5. A/C compressor oil: ND-OIL8 (HFC-134a or R134a, scroll compressor type)
Cruise control US$176 (2001-on model which should be same) #08501-47801 fmhttp://www.trademotion.com
as at 2007
End of quote.
Hope it helps!
There is always a way if there is no other way!
The writer of this post accepts no responsibility or liability resulting from attempts to repeat or perform the procedures described in this post. This information may be used at your own risk.