I don't know how I managed to do this, but there is a trace that's improperly routed.
Luckily, it won't be too hard to correct. U2 pin 6 is going to the wrong place.
You can cut the trace with a sharp blade or the end of a tiny screwdriver. Just scratch across it until there is no more connection. The wire can be added on the bottom of the board, it will probably be easier there but on top will work too.
Did that, easy enough.
The way it was wired before, U2 would be on all the time and the LEDs would never turn off.
You may still have another problem, but let's try this first and see how it tests.
True again: now the LEDs are on all the time, Round 2:
Connect supply to Charger + and Pack – terminals. Slowly turn the voltage up to around 20v.
The master LED should not light up [It does, orange] and current should remain near zero [yes].
Next, connect supply to charger + and – terminals on board. You should see the master LED light up orange for about ½ second, then turn green. [stays orange all the time]Measure the voltage across the HVC terminals. You should see 10V-12V.[seeing 10.8V] Short the HVC terminals with a jumper. LED should turn red with terminals shorted, and then go back to green when jumper is removed.[It turns red, but goes back to orange]
I checked Q3 as above and see 11.0V again, same on Q2.
With power applied to the pack terminals, U1 pin 5 should be slightly negative compared to the charger (-) input.
Then I saw that R5 had a cold solder joint (or maybe I knocked it loose at some point, some of my components "stand" rather high) - fixed that:
no LED on C+ & P-
green on C+ & C- , red withHVC shorted, orange with EOC disable shorted
playing now with my 4s test pack (old cellphone li-"ions")
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