turnigy wattmeter - is Ah reading cycling ?

curious

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I have one of the first original wattmeters from RC days. It cycles Ah reading along with other statistics which makes it a very inconvenient fuel gauge, you have to keep staring at the display until it gets to Ah reading. Does the Turnigy clone behave the same way ? Can it be programmed to show Ah permanently ? Is there any other cheapo integrating Ah meter ? CA is an overkill ($-wise) for this particular project.
 
Yep. The Turnigy clones still cycle the display.

If your are handy with AVR assembly code, and have a programmer it is possible to modify the code so it shows Ah all the time.
 
adrian_sm said:
Yep. The Turnigy clones still cycle the display.
If your are handy with AVR assembly code, and have a programmer it is possible to modify the code so it shows Ah all the time.
Thanks. Within my abilities, but too much hassle getting the toolset, programmer, etc. If I ever go that far I'd do my own instrument cluster, there are certain things I want to look/work different from CA.

Has anyone used this gizmo ?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10786
Shows Ah on one of the screens :)
 
curious said:
Has anyone used this gizmo ?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10786
Shows Ah on one of the screens :)
Just ordered one. Will let you know how it works.
 
Toolset is free. AVRStudio
Programmer is ~ $30 + shipping Atmel AVRISP STK500 USB ISP Programmer

Somehow with age I keep loosing that hacker mentality :) I've done many assembler projects in my younger days, from 8080 and 8051 in 80s to PPC and IA-32 (including SIMD stuff). But getting familiar with new toolset and new micro architecture takes at least few days (if toolset is particularly bad - much longer), and there has to be a high enough goal to overcome laziness. The older I get the higher is this threshold :) Writing an alternative instrument cluster is a good one. But for now I need a simple fuel gauge :).

Just ordered one. Will let you know how it works.
Thanks.
 
Finally got the HK-010 Power Analyzer in and got it hooked up. Works great. Found out my controller draws 31A at open throttle. When you set it in Watt mode, it stays there. Which is what I want anyway. Shows amps, watts, battery voltage, and ah use in real time. I didn't try any of the other features as I really didn't care about them. You can see them on youtube videos if interested. It was worth the $18.99 just for the Watt mode.
 
It doesn't matter what kind of battery you have. It reads the voltages, watts, amps, and ah used. That will be the same for any battery. Lead, lithium. nicad, whatever. The other modes supports just lithium. Lipo, LiFe, and LIon. Up to 6s for balancing.
 
In Watts mode, there's 4 values. Amps give real time amp draw. Watts gives real time watts usage. Volts give real time voltage from the battery pack, including sag if you or on the throttle. AH gives the total AH used since it was connected to the battery. You use this info however you want to. I have a 14s1p 5ah pack. I know that i start out at 58.8V, and I know I want to stop at 50.4V (3.6Vx14) resting. It's that simple. OR, I know I have a 5ah pack. When the AH meter reaches 4ah, I know I'm getting close to the end. You don't need to keep track of time or distance.
 
chekola said:
I see , it does sound easy then.
I have 24 v 15 ah so its simple as just cycling tll i hit 7 - 7.5 ah and then going back , have i got that right ?
In theory that would be correct. In reality, you have to take other factors into account. Say the first 7ah where all used going downhill or with a 15mph wind. You would certainly need more than 7ah for the return trip uphill and/or into the wind. But at least you would know when the battery got to the point that using it more might damage it. No meter is a replacement for a brain, not even a CA. Try driving a car with a 20mph tailwind and using half your gas and then turning around and driving back. You'll end up walking if you don't stop and get more gas.
 
I also got one of these HK-010 and in the watt meter mode it does indicate Ah continuously, so it is indeed possible to use it as cheap fuel gauge.
But there are few convenience issues also: (i) you must press a button to enter watt-meter mode every time you start the trip, (ii) if you exit watt-meter mode (for example to check battery balance) Ah value is lost, (iii) like original wattmeter it does not remember Ah value when power is disconnected.
 
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