lead in the uk

passpato

10 W
Joined
Jun 18, 2011
Messages
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I am looking for some SLA's to build a bike for my mate on a tight budget. I have a Heinzmann hub to fit that draws a max 33 amps but most of the batteries i've seen have small contacts on the top of them not rated to carry that sort of ampage.I don't know what the batteries will surply.
I have a Ping on my bike but he can't afford one.Does anyone have any suggestions for a cheap alternative in the Uk?
 
passpato said:
... I have a Heinzmann hub to fit that draws a max 33 amps but most of the batteries i've seen have small contacts on the top of them not rated to carry that sort of ampage...
You're right. It'll take a lot of SLAs to provide that 33amps and still gives decent range.
passpato said:
... for my mate on a tight budget...
Does anyone have any suggestions for a cheap alternative in the Uk?
There is an alternative, but it requires significant learning and invested time: Build your own battery from recycled (cheap to free) laptop battery cells.
 
I built a 36 volt unit out 3, 12 volt motorcycle starting batteries ( flooded lead acid ) 12 kg worth That performed well, but only good for 5 miles in hilly terrain. However this type of battery will be short lived under this kind of use. Walmart cost $120 .

the amps pulled where, 60 at stall, 30-40 on hills, 10-20 on flats. total weight 100 kg.
Speed 17 mph on hills, 25 on flats no wind .

Summery: if you can spring for lithium, do it ! Now i run 12 kg worth of headway batteries, same performance 3 time's the range. Headway's are considered old school these days,
 
Alan B said:
Starting batteries will buckle the plates on deep discharge and be quickly damaged.

UPS AGM type lead batteries are designed for high currents and quick deep discharge and they have good sized bolt on connections. If you have to use lead, those are it.
Yes but Im in the UK and we don't have them here. Thanks anyway
 
999zip999 said:
Batteries are the important part.
All the components are important. We have a very good budget second hand motor. We are buying a 4qd controller but we are cutting back on the power supply. I am over 18 stone and my Heinzmann will pull me anywhere. My mate is 3 or 4 stone lighter than me. If we can find some sla batteries that will deliver the current the bike will keep up with mine and save £200
 
passpato said:
Alan B said:
UPS AGM type lead batteries are designed for high currents and quick deep discharge and they have good sized bolt on connections. If you have to use lead, those are it.
Yes but Im in the UK and we don't have them here. Thanks anyway
Really? That would be incredibly surprising, since even in the UK, UPS systems are used for all sorts of things, and I'm sure replacement batteries must be purchased for them often enough. ;)

The UPS systems used on large servers are the ones you would want to look for the replacement batteries for, as those tend to be 17-20Ah, with large bolt-on posts. I used this type on CrazyBike2 until I could get better types of batteries.


Powerchairs / wheelchairs also use these same batteries. (I've used those, too).
 
For £189 including delivery you could buy a 36V 15Ah cheap ass lithium. Not something I would buy but between that and lead I would buy this.


Voltage: 36 V
Lifecycle: >1000 times 85% capacity after
Capacity: 15 AH
Charging Voltage: <45 V
Charging Current: 0~1.5C
Rated Discharging Amperage:15A
Max Continuous Discharging: 15A
Maximum Discharging Current:30A
Weight:5.50 kg ( 12.3 lbs)
Dimension:220x105x150 mm ( 8.7x4.2x5.9 inch )

Ebay uk search for 36v Lifepo4.
 
Firstly, that Heinzmann is never going to pull 33 amps continuous. At 20 mph, unless uphill or into wind, he'll draw 300-400 w. That's only about 11 amps. So as long as the hills aren't much over a km long he should be fine.

So don't fret too much about using a battery with the spade connectors that are about 5 mm wide. Get something designed for an EV, such as the 12 ah batteries common in the toy electric cars for small kids. Then just make sure you use the larger size spade connectors that allow at least 12 guage or larger wiring to be used. The connector itself will be fine at 30 amps.

Range will be short with sla, and even shorter if you want them to really last. But better than nada. Lead can still be very economic, if the range needed per charge is short. If he needs 20 k range, he's screwed and will just have to cough up money for lifpo4, and at least a 20 ah pack.

A lower amp controller is an option too, 15 amps would make the motor run still, but allow a smaller lifepo4.
 
Spacey said:
For £189 including delivery you could buy a 36V 15Ah cheap ass lithium. Not something I would buy but between that and lead I would buy this.


Voltage: 36 V
Lifecycle: >1000 times 85% capacity after
Capacity: 15 AH
Charging Voltage: <45 V
Charging Current: 0~1.5C
Rated Discharging Amperage:15A
Max Continuous Discharging: 15A
Maximum Discharging Current:30A
Weight:5.50 kg ( 12.3 lbs)
Dimension:220x105x150 mm ( 8.7x4.2x5.9 inch )

Ebay uk search for 36v Lifepo4.

The max continuous discharge current is less than half of his stated current of 33amps and the max possible is also less, that battery would not work for him and would effectively be worse than the lead if you ask me.

the laptop battery idea posted boy another is also a no go as to get the 33amps output required you would be looking at a 60+AH battery.

They way i see it there are 2 options for a cheap but effective battery that will meet the required specification.

1) 3 or 4 x 12v 20AH lead batteries such as this which will cost about £100-£130 but weight will be 18-25kg (45-60lb).

2) 2x these which will come out at about £160 just for the batteries, then you need a power supply and charger and also knowledge of how to properly treat and respect lipo (so not for beginners)

Any other options will be over double the cost at around £400 for a 20AH ping (20AH to acomodate the output required), £300 for a 10AH Headway pack (after delivery as european sellers are sparce and rip you off), or around £300 for a A123 pack.

As you can see the only really feasable cheap option for someone who is cash strapped is the lead, and even that is expensive for us brits. Also the downside is that the weight of the decent lead that is designed for the heavier discharge means that it turns the agile ebike into an unagile tank.
 
Personally I would go with a small A123 pack as it has the power without the need for massive oversized pack if you do not need the range.
 
passpato said:
Alan B said:
Starting batteries will buckle the plates on deep discharge and be quickly damaged.

UPS AGM type lead batteries are designed for high currents and quick deep discharge and they have good sized bolt on connections. If you have to use lead, those are it.
Yes but Im in the UK and we don't have them here. Thanks anyway

You don't have computer uninterruptible power supplies there? Amazing. These are pretty common. I wonder if your looking in the right places. Good luck!
 
The other good place to get EV rated batteries is the power wheelchair suppliers.
 
Even with the important role of the battery you cought get a 20amp. controller for cheap under 40usd and your battery needs change. Those motor are strong and eats ah.
 
dogman said:
Firstly, that Heinzmann is never going to pull 33 amps continuous. At 20 mph, unless uphill or into wind, he'll draw 300-400 w. That's only about 11 amps. So as long as the hills aren't much over a km long he should be fine.

So don't fret too much about using a battery with the spade connectors that are about 5 mm wide. Get something designed for an EV, such as the 12 ah batteries common in the toy electric cars for small kids. Then just make sure you use the larger size spade connectors that allow at least 12 guage or larger wiring to be used. The connector itself will be fine at 30 amps.

Range will be short with sla, and even shorter if you want them to really last. But better than nada. Lead can still be very economic, if the range needed per charge is short. If he needs 20 k range, he's screwed and will just have to cough up money for lifpo4, and at least a 20 ah pack.

A lower amp controller is an option too, 15 amps would make the motor run still, but allow a smaller lifepo4.
Why would range be shorter? 12 amp hours is 12 amp hours lead or lipo. And if I buy a lower amp controller the motor will burn it out. The motor draws the amps from the battery not the controller.The controller in effect switches on and off the power to slow the motor down at lower throttle settings.
I already have this motor on my own bike with 10 a/h Ping battery and a 100 amp max 4qd controller and I get 30 killlometers plus.My main concern is that sla batteries would not cope with 33 amps for the ten minutes before the thermister cuts out the motor and that the connectors will burn as do the genuine Heinzmann connectors when used on rickshaws etc.
 
theRealFury said:
Spacey said:
For £189 including delivery you could buy a 36V 15Ah cheap ass lithium. Not something I would buy but between that and lead I would buy this.


Voltage: 36 V
Lifecycle: >1000 times 85% capacity after
Capacity: 15 AH
Charging Voltage: <45 V
Charging Current: 0~1.5C
Rated Discharging Amperage:15A
Max Continuous Discharging: 15A
Maximum Discharging Current:30A
Weight:5.50 kg ( 12.3 lbs)
Dimension:220x105x150 mm ( 8.7x4.2x5.9 inch )

Ebay uk search for 36v Lifepo4.

The max continuous discharge current is less than half of his stated current of 33amps and the max possible is also less, that battery would not work for him and would effectively be worse than the lead if you ask me.

the laptop battery idea posted boy another is also a no go as to get the 33amps output required you would be looking at a 60+AH battery.

They way i see it there are 2 options for a cheap but effective battery that will meet the required specification.

1) 3 or 4 x 12v 20AH lead batteries such as this which will cost about £100-£130 but weight will be 18-25kg (45-60lb).

2) 2x these which will come out at about £160 just for the batteries, then you need a power supply and charger and also knowledge of how to properly treat and respect lipo (so not for beginners)

Any other options will be over double the cost at around £400 for a 20AH ping (20AH to acomodate the output required), £300 for a 10AH Headway pack (after delivery as european sellers are sparce and rip you off), or around £300 for a A123 pack.

As you can see the only really feasable cheap option for someone who is cash strapped is the lead, and even that is expensive for us brits. Also the downside is that the weight of the decent lead that is designed for the heavier discharge means that it turns the agile ebike into an unagile tank.
I already have a 10 amp hour Ping running my identical motor. The maximum withdraw current is 40 amps amd I get about 30 killometer range but we are looking to use lead because its cheap. My mate is 20 to 30 killos lighter than me so the lead weight would equalise us.
 
passpato said:
Why would range be shorter? 12 amp hours is 12 amp hours lead or lipo.
Unfortunately, that's not really the case, since they are rated by different methods, and work in different ways. Because the Puekert effect with lead chemistries is much more severe than with Lipo or any other common EV chemistry. That means that at the higher current draws (c-rates) we are using, you get at best 70-80% of the rated capacity, and usually more like 50% or less. And that is assuming 100% DOD, which will kill your lead based batteries in far fewer cycles than doing that to most other chemistries. So often you'll only be able to pull perhaps a quarter to a third of the rated capacity from a lead battery, if you want it to last a good number of cycles.

Also note that most lead-based batteries are measured for capacity at a very low current draw--typically 1/20th of their capacity. So a 20Ah SLA is tested for that 20Ah at only 1A! If you draw 20A constant from it, it isn't going to last 1 hour, it is probably only going to last for 20-30 minutes at best. Drawing 40A from it would be less than half of even *that* capacity. :(



And if I buy a lower amp controller the motor will burn it out. The motor draws the amps from the battery not the controller.The controller in effect switches on and off the power to slow the motor down at lower throttle settings.
Not exactly. The last sentence is essentially true, but the motor shouldn't burn out a lower amp controller (assuming the controller has a current-limit in it to prevent drawing more than it is capable of, which is how most of them are made). The motor simply wont' perform as well, because it can't draw as much power as it "wants" to, so it won't accelerate as hard as it would with a higher current supplied to it.

The lower-amp controller will simply switch on for less time when it hits it's current limit, for each pulse, supplyng the motor with less average voltage and thus less current.

Often enough the lower-amp controllers might be of lesser quality than the higher-amp controllers, less able to shed the heat generated, and so might blow up because of that, but not directly because the motor is trying to pull more amps. It would instead be because the motor is pulling max amps the controller can supply for a longer time, to reach the speeds at whcih current drops because of the faster rotation of the motor, and that longer duration generating heat for a longer time, potentially reaching saturation in the controller and overheating it. If it doesn't have a thermal shutdown, it could cook it and kill it that way.




I already have this motor on my own bike with 10 a/h Ping battery and a 100 amp max 4qd controller and I get 30 killlometers plus.
10Ah Ping with a 100A controller? Does it doesn't pull anywhere near that amount of power from the Ping for any length of time? I ask because Pings are usually rated for 1-1.5C continuous, and maybe 2-3C burst, for best life. It is certainly possible for one to last quite some time (years), but the lower the rate you pull power from it, the longer it will last. See Dogman's various threads about his experiences with different types of Pings for some examples. I'd be interested in details of how long yours has lasted, under what kind of continuous current draw conditions, as well as what the peaks are and how long the peaks last, and how often they occur.


My main concern is that sla batteries would not cope with 33 amps for the ten minutes before the thermister cuts out the motor and that the connectors will burn as do the genuine Heinzmann connectors when used on rickshaws etc.
The right size SLA batteries could indeed handle it, but they would be quite large and heavy. Typically the powerchair batteries like the 31Ah U1 types I have here could probably do it, but their range will be greatly reduced by doing that. 33A continous on a 31Ah SLA is pretty likely to result in less than half, possibly only 1/3 of the actual capacity being available, unless you run them to 100% DOD, which isn't recommended if you want them to last a good number of cycles.
 
Mmm. I'd be concerned about your ping if you are running that much controller. Hopefully you ride pretty mellow. One thing that saves you , is that motor is geared low enough to never really pull it's max amps too long, unless it's going up steep hills.

Yes, you can blow a controller by running it on too big a motor. But a 20 amp (700w max) controller should pull that motor with no problems. BTW, isn't that a 400w motor anyway? So a 20 amp controller is a bit oversize. Or are we talking apples and oranges here. Heinzmann brushed motor, similar to that on the EV Global Bikes?
 
Here is the spec for my controller (4qd uni8). Because it is capable of 30 amps continuous 115 amps max it never gets hot at my occasional 33 amps.




Supply voltage 12v or 24v 36v or 48v - depends on model.
Supply current 30mA (At zero speed)
Output voltage 0 to 100% full speed, adjustable.
Output current max (typ Uni-8) 115 amps (100 amps regen)
1 minute rating 85 amps - board, without additional heatsink!
2 minute rating 45 amps - board, without additional heatsink!
continuous 30 amps or more: heatsink dependant
voltage drop at 20a 130mV
Uni 4 figures are approx half Uni 8
Overheat current 25 amps - typical
Overheat temperature 95°C - on heatsink
Overvoltage protection level 47v (12, 24 and 36v versions)
68v (48v version)
Switching frequency 20kHz approximately
Acceleration time 330mSec to 7 Sec (adjustable)
Deceleration time 330mSec to 7 Sec (adjustable)
Input 5k to 25k pot or 0-3.5v (adjustable)
Pot overvoltage Approx 130% of full speed
Size 71mm x 71mm x 35mm plus tags
case 75mm x 75mm x 40mm plus tags
base 80mm x 100mm x 4mm
Weight board version 110 gm
enclosed version 210 gm
 
Lead is a non starter nowadays, as spacey says cheap ping pack is the way to go if you have a relatively low draw controller and as already mentioned 12AH lead never delivers 12Ah, with EV use you would be lucky if you got 8AH under 30-35A loads and that would be with heavy sag. The weight of them is also a killer, there isnt really a shortcut, the price of lead is high now too which has driven up the cost of the batteries to the point where its not worth it. for 48V at 12AH you would need 4 batteries, if you got decent cells here in the UK you would be paying 50 quid each (im not talking the cheap stuff) and only perhaps get 100 cycles from them.

I have used everything in the last 10 years and ran lead acid for quite a few of them, I would never go back to it, the availability of cheap, light powerful Lipo has kept the hobby alive for me, I think I would have drifted in to other things if it had not been for Lipo :p who knows I may have even strapped a gasser to my bike :lol:

Ping pack on fleabay for the win :p
 
ES again fails to grasp the concept of no money. :roll:

But they are right, he's gonna hate lead. But it could be worse, he could have a buddy helping him who runs a 10 ah ping on a 100 amp controller. Fortunately, the motor won't really pull 100 amps. Not to worry, 30 amps can do the trick. :mrgreen:

It all depends on if he's got a pack with 100% perfect cells. I suspect he does, or he'd know it by now. It just wouldn't work with me on the bike, riding up and down lots of steep hills. If the 33 amp spikes are short, like starting out on level ground, the ping may take lots of abuse just fine.
 
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