foundingpower programmable bms

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agniusm   10 MW

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by agniusm » Dec 10 2013 5:53pm

OK, im not concluding, just saying had similar results. It would not hurt if you could post wiring diagram and your wiring photo. Bet it something silly.
P.S. I have checked out the datasheet. Looks like there are few ways to wire 16S battery. have you set up your software accordingly, the chip option? (08:08 or 12:04, 11:05 etc)
Dont know the way new bms works but some people were forgeting to push send button to upload changes to bms.

dutchlincoln   100 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 11 2013 10:43am

i use the ver1 software, but i don't see a upload button?
I wired it 8:8 as it was the most advisable way according to Eason.

i'll draw a wiring schematic according the way i measure the pins, so any possible errors should fall through the wiring drawing. (hope i make myself clear :lol: )

i will take a second look at the software again.
What does bother me, that my "software-setting laptop" (i have a separate 10" asus for it) has 800x1024, and its too small to see everything, and no scroll possibility, so i installed it on my own laptop.

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 11 2013 3:11pm

I went onto the BMS again. (not measured or made a drawing yet, just analyzing).
When i start the program, my virtual com is found. (usb to serial, i use it for several other things, like programming my kelly controllers, so it works for sure.)
When i click open port, the port is opened, but it gives directly an error that port opening failed.
When i push check, all values of the BMS come in, and it sees 22 or so cells (didn't count, sorry) and one cell in red giving 233mv. (thats new...)
When i go to tools tab, and select 8:8 cells per chip, press stop check, and then do update, it gives update succesful.
When i start check, and go to the main tab again, it sees 16 cells indeed. (some with wrong values though)
Then, for the proof, i close the program, start it again, and same show from start: 22 cells, 12:12, etcetera.

So, it looks like it will monitor, but won't program the BMS?
I figure that data should be read from the BMS?
Ialso changed some other data like max. current, UV voltage, etc. All when i submit (after stopping "check") gives a error with a chinese explanation. (not sure what it is, my mandarin has been dusty for a while :lol: )

Anyone that can chime in and give me a little push into the right direction?

Thanks!

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by agniusm » Dec 11 2013 4:07pm

So the problem is with setting up BMS. That COM error sounds like the reason. if it does not save settings to the BMS must be it. Have you tried contacting Eason regarding perhaps newer version of the software?
I would try and sort out communication error first

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 11 2013 4:19pm

hi, No, Eason hasn't responded for a couple of days now, i think he is on a business trip again, which is why i tried the forum :)

I'm not sure how to solve this com error, as everything else through com goes allright.

Anyone that can tell me what kind of hardware they use to read/write the bms?

I don't have a fixed computer with a hardware com anymore, so im not able to try such...

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by romelec » Dec 11 2013 4:49pm

Check or reinstall the USB driver, some USB to serial converters/chips are a pain in the a.. to use, especially the PL2303 which have cloned versions.

Maybe you have previously installed a driver for another converter but that doesn't work for this one.

I had such issues before, now I always use the same USB->RS232 converter for all my work.
Sometimes two identical converters bought at the same place need different drivers...

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 11 2013 11:56pm

True,

And to avoid such, i have a laptop thats solely used for such purposes, and i put it in a sleeve, together with this converter, and use it for all my programming....


I can try to re-install the driver on my regular laptop, and try programming it again with this converter.
I have 2 different converters indeed, and the other one is the one you described so well... :mrgreen:

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by Arlo1 » Dec 12 2013 1:03am

Has anyone asked about upping the current to the controller? Can a guy just change the current sensor to something higher value? I need something ~400 amps DC
My Leaf motor controller build. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 27#p963227
My YSR build http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRo8r5g4NBg
RC and most types of Lithium batteries you MUST know your individual cell voltages charging and discharging.
Don't keep them were you cant afford smoke or fire!
Never above 4.2v never below 2.7v EVER!!!
Support me on Patreon. https://www.patreon.com/user/posts?u=6842045
http://www.undergroundelectrics.ca/

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by agniusm » Dec 12 2013 2:40am

I think he uses Allegro hall effect current sensor which is up to 200A. I read somewher that Allego 0-1000a sensors are discontinued furthere more unknown if they would be compatible for diy intrusion.

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by romelec » Dec 12 2013 5:03am

There is an Allegro sensor on the PCB for the charge measurment and an unknown brand that goes around the battery cable.
This one can be replaced by any model that have a 5v supply and and 2.5v output at 0A. LEM makes very good sensors up to 20000A, for example this one for your need.

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by Arlo1 » Dec 12 2013 6:24pm

Thanks. I use these which work about the same way. I just used 10volt regulated input and a 2:1 voltage divider to give it a 2.5v signal at 0 amps.
My Leaf motor controller build. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 27#p963227
My YSR build http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRo8r5g4NBg
RC and most types of Lithium batteries you MUST know your individual cell voltages charging and discharging.
Don't keep them were you cant afford smoke or fire!
Never above 4.2v never below 2.7v EVER!!!
Support me on Patreon. https://www.patreon.com/user/posts?u=6842045
http://www.undergroundelectrics.ca/

dutchlincoln   100 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 14 2013 1:32pm

Can anyone tell me if it is also possible to put the current hall in the positive battery lead, instead of the negative?
It naturally has to be wired the other direction, thats clear...
Its a bit neater to wire in the positive, the way my setup is assembled.

dutchlincoln   100 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 15 2013 11:59pm

Hi,
Installed and finalised BMS yesterday.
Below a picture of my settings for my 16S Winston 90Ah Setup.
Anyone got some info, advice, comments?

Thanks!

Image
Last edited by dutchlincoln on Dec 16 2013 3:10pm, edited 1 time in total.

romelec   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by romelec » Dec 16 2013 6:01am

dutchlincoln wrote:Can anyone tell me if it is also possible to put the current hall in the positive battery lead, instead of the negative?
Yes, I have also put it in the positive wire.
(I don't see the image due to my company's firewall)

dutchlincoln   100 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 16 2013 12:28pm

Today i had my first drive with the BMS.
I have to set the current and match it to a reference value, so its probably not exact yet.

What bothers me, is this:

I have fully charged the pack, charging current was 9 amps, so this could be quite correct.
When full, i reset the pack value, so all was 90Ah.

When i put on my contact, and turned my headlight on, it states approx. 0.2A, so a little on the low side.
When i give some gas, current flies up. When i brke with regen braking, it gives negetive current, so sensor is correct connected.

Today however, i started with 90Ah capacity, and when i arrived at work, i had a battery of 90Ah, and current state of charge was 103Ah!!
When i drove back home, my state of charge is 118Ah!
So, when i use power, it adds up the value????

Anyone can tell me what i've done wrong? (no time to check now, i have to leave again).

ps. Today i noticed the Oled display going crazy on me.
Yesterday in my heated barn it all worked fine.
Today when i arrived at work, i took a peek on the display when it wouldn't go on...
I trid contact on and off several times, but no response.
When i tried 15 min. after, it went on, but the last few millimeters on the display were flickering and giving weird caracters.
When i tried again around noon, it wouldn't start, and after 4 times trying, it worked fine.
Today i arrived at home, no display again. When i tried it for the second time, it gave the weird caracters again.
In the evening i went away, and when i (just) returned and put the charger on it, the top 5 millimeters flickered and gave weird caracters again.
Anybody got an idea what that can be?

It seems i have a bit bad luck with the BMS... Maybe manufactured on monday morning? :lol:

Eason! Where are you!!??? I need you pls!

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agniusm   10 MW

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by agniusm » Dec 16 2013 6:30pm

reversed current sensor direction? It looks like when you discharge, bms sees it as regen and vice versa?

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FoundingPower   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by FoundingPower » Dec 16 2013 9:42pm

dutchlincoln wrote:Today i had my first drive with the BMS.
I have to set the current and match it to a reference value, so its probably not exact yet.

What bothers me, is this:

I have fully charged the pack, charging current was 9 amps, so this could be quite correct.
When full, i reset the pack value, so all was 90Ah.

When i put on my contact, and turned my headlight on, it states approx. 0.2A, so a little on the low side.
When i give some gas, current flies up. When i brke with regen braking, it gives negetive current, so sensor is correct connected.

Today however, i started with 90Ah capacity, and when i arrived at work, i had a battery of 90Ah, and current state of charge was 103Ah!!
When i drove back home, my state of charge is 118Ah!
So, when i use power, it adds up the value????

Anyone can tell me what i've done wrong? (no time to check now, i have to leave again).

ps. Today i noticed the Oled display going crazy on me.
Yesterday in my heated barn it all worked fine.
Today when i arrived at work, i took a peek on the display when it wouldn't go on...
I trid contact on and off several times, but no response.
When i tried 15 min. after, it went on, but the last few millimeters on the display were flickering and giving weird caracters.
When i tried again around noon, it wouldn't start, and after 4 times trying, it worked fine.
Today i arrived at home, no display again. When i tried it for the second time, it gave the weird caracters again.
In the evening i went away, and when i (just) returned and put the charger on it, the top 5 millimeters flickered and gave weird caracters again.
Anybody got an idea what that can be?

It seems i have a bit bad luck with the BMS... Maybe manufactured on monday morning? :lol:

Eason! Where are you!!??? I need you pls!
Sorry for my leaving for a few days.You are right,I am having a bussniss trip and just back to office.
On my bussness trip,I can just read email.If possible,send me e-mail and I can reply you in time.
.I read the BBS carefully,at first,there are wrong voltage with the first chip,but it seems all right after you setup the right software.

1.your battery is 90AH,after you drove back home,it shows 118Ah.
It is probably the problem with the external hall sensor.
Can you see the arrow on the external hall sensor?
This is the direction of discharging.
If the sensor is connected in the negative direction,when discharging,BMS thinks it is charging,so SOC will add up.
Please check the external hall sensor.The direction of arrow is the direction of discharging.

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FoundingPower   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by FoundingPower » Dec 16 2013 10:00pm

dutchlincoln wrote:Today i had my first drive with the BMS.
I have to set the current and match it to a reference value, so its probably not exact yet.

What bothers me, is this:

I have fully charged the pack, charging current was 9 amps, so this could be quite correct.
When full, i reset the pack value, so all was 90Ah.

When i put on my contact, and turned my headlight on, it states approx. 0.2A, so a little on the low side.
When i give some gas, current flies up. When i brke with regen braking, it gives negetive current, so sensor is correct connected.

Today however, i started with 90Ah capacity, and when i arrived at work, i had a battery of 90Ah, and current state of charge was 103Ah!!
When i drove back home, my state of charge is 118Ah!
So, when i use power, it adds up the value????

Anyone can tell me what i've done wrong? (no time to check now, i have to leave again).

ps. Today i noticed the Oled display going crazy on me.
Yesterday in my heated barn it all worked fine.
Today when i arrived at work, i took a peek on the display when it wouldn't go on...
I trid contact on and off several times, but no response.
When i tried 15 min. after, it went on, but the last few millimeters on the display were flickering and giving weird caracters.
When i tried again around noon, it wouldn't start, and after 4 times trying, it worked fine.
Today i arrived at home, no display again. When i tried it for the second time, it gave the weird caracters again.
In the evening i went away, and when i (just) returned and put the charger on it, the top 5 millimeters flickered and gave weird caracters again.
Anybody got an idea what that can be?

It seems i have a bit bad luck with the BMS... Maybe manufactured on monday morning? :lol:

Eason! Where are you!!??? I need you pls!
Regarding OLED,I want to ask few questions
1.Does BMS work well?
2.tell me local temperature
3.most parts of OLED is good,but few millimeters were flichering,right.

Would you please checking the wires of OLED first?any loose.

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FoundingPower   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by FoundingPower » Dec 16 2013 10:13pm

FoundingPower wrote:
dutchlincoln wrote:Today i had my first drive with the BMS.
I have to set the current and match it to a reference value, so its probably not exact yet.

What bothers me, is this:

I have fully charged the pack, charging current was 9 amps, so this could be quite correct.
When full, i reset the pack value, so all was 90Ah.

When i put on my contact, and turned my headlight on, it states approx. 0.2A, so a little on the low side.
When i give some gas, current flies up. When i brke with regen braking, it gives negetive current, so sensor is correct connected.

Today however, i started with 90Ah capacity, and when i arrived at work, i had a battery of 90Ah, and current state of charge was 103Ah!!
When i drove back home, my state of charge is 118Ah!
So, when i use power, it adds up the value????

Anyone can tell me what i've done wrong? (no time to check now, i have to leave again).

ps. Today i noticed the Oled display going crazy on me.
Yesterday in my heated barn it all worked fine.
Today when i arrived at work, i took a peek on the display when it wouldn't go on...
I trid contact on and off several times, but no response.
When i tried 15 min. after, it went on, but the last few millimeters on the display were flickering and giving weird caracters.
When i tried again around noon, it wouldn't start, and after 4 times trying, it worked fine.
Today i arrived at home, no display again. When i tried it for the second time, it gave the weird caracters again.
In the evening i went away, and when i (just) returned and put the charger on it, the top 5 millimeters flickered and gave weird caracters again.
Anybody got an idea what that can be?

It seems i have a bit bad luck with the BMS... Maybe manufactured on monday morning? :lol:

Eason! Where are you!!??? I need you pls!
Sorry for my leaving for a few days.You are right,I am having a bussniss trip and just back to office.
On my bussness trip,I can just read email.If possible,send me e-mail and I can reply you in time.
.I read the BBS carefully,at first,there are wrong voltage with the first chip,but it seems all right after you setup the right software.

1.your battery is 90AH,after you drove back home,it shows 118Ah.
It is probably the problem with the external hall sensor.
Can you see the arrow on the external hall sensor?
This is the direction of discharging.
If the sensor is connected in the negative direction,when discharging,BMS thinks it is charging,so SOC will add up.
Please check the external hall sensor.The direction of arrow is the direction of discharging.
For 16s cells,chip 1:8 chip2:8

p5-1 and 2 together to negative of pack.
P5-3,4,5,6,7,8,9 to positive of cell 1-7
Pin 10 and 15 to positive of cell 8

P6-1 and 2 to negative of cell 9
P6-3,4,5,6,7,8,9 to positive of cell 9-15
P6-10 and 15 to positive of cell 16.

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FoundingPower   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by FoundingPower » Dec 16 2013 10:24pm

romelec wrote:There is an Allegro sensor on the PCB for the charge measurment and an unknown brand that goes around the battery cable.
This one can be replaced by any model that have a 5v supply and and 2.5v output at 0A. LEM makes very good sensors up to 20000A, for example this one for your need.
Hello,BMS is on the way.
You could soon get it.
:D

dutchlincoln   100 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 18 2013 4:12pm

Okay,
I had the external current sensor the wrong way. In the drawing it is specified, but this seems to be the wrong direction.
I took the time to reference the sensor, and put it the other way round on the cable. Now, when pulling current it gives negative energy, and when regenerating, it gives positive current. Just like it should be. What surprises me, is that the current of the headlight (35watts) is too little to display a current. (is this due the 10mv noise setting?)

Also referenced the internal CS sensor. The dividing calculation doesn't seem to work there, i probably do something wrong...

I put a battery and a headlight in series with the internal current sensor, and put my Fluke in series, in order to determine the exact current.
When dividing, the current given was nowhere....
I referenced it by flowing a known current, and adjusting the bias setting, just as long the display gave the correct/same value as my fluke.

regarding the display: It is very sensitive to distortion.....
When i press my horn, the display hops to the next page!!
This could explain the erratic behavior, BUT: The display wouldn't startup, and gave erratic readings, even when the scooter wasn't powered up yet... (maybe the controller was processing, after all it was activated..)
I can't explain that.
Its in my barn again, and i relocated the display to the steer, and for now, it works as it should. Tomorrow: testdrive :)

romelec   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by romelec » Dec 19 2013 3:53am

dutchlincoln wrote:What surprises me, is that the current of the headlight (35watts) is too little to display a current. (is this due the 10mv noise setting?)
Same issue but with about 80w load...
With colder temperatures the sensor offset has changed, it was 0A this summer and now 2A. The real one is about 1A

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by romelec » Dec 19 2013 5:44am

I have a small question about the cell wires connexion.
There is 2 connectors and they should be connected/disconnected in a specific order, which I understand.

I will put a connector between the battery pack and BMS (that will be in an enclosure), is it safe to have only one, with all the wires (dis)connected at the same time ?
I will use it a few times per year beacuse sometimes I won't use it for a few months so I don't want any current consumption in the battery (even a few µA).

dutchlincoln   100 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by dutchlincoln » Dec 19 2013 10:58am

i don't think it will be such a great deal....

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mucek   10 W

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Re: foundingpower programmable bms

Post by mucek » Jan 01 2014 7:38am

Just a quick button tip :)

As there's no convenient place for original button, I added a micro (6x6 mm) button just bellow the screen.
LCD's pin 1 is used for fixing the button (+ some hot glue bellow it) as well as for one of the contacts.
May come handy to someone :)

Regards,
Gregor
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Electronic equipment doesn't work on a electricity base, but on a smoke ... When the smoke comes out, it stops working! Simple, right?!

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