The individual cells are 15AH, which are rated conservatively by GM at 7.8C. They are welded together in 3P 45AH groups, which are welded into 6S and 12S modules. That is a substantial disadvantage because it makes it very difficult to reconfigure the packs. It looks like the plates on the end might be used to compress the modules?
The module dimensions are 11" high and 9.5" wide. The Volt packs have 7 modules with 12 groups (~48v ) that are 9.2" long and 2 modules with 6 groups (~24v) that are 4.6" long.
There is a thread on the DiyEv car forum with quite a bit of info (prices paid range from $2000 + $150 shipping to $1,3xx picked up locally):
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/sh ... 93101.html
Including some information on separating cell groups and individual cells:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/sh ... tcount=108
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/sh ... tcount=118To do the individual cells, get a 26" x 1.75/2.25 bicycle tube. Cut off 1" slices like rubberbands. Put these on all cell welds to insulate.
Get Channellock PN 748, which are long reach cutters:
Start at one end, and SNIP/SNIP/SNIP/SNIP ... Pull cells out bottom.Pop-rivet cells together with .032/.064 thick .375 wide and 1.75" long copper strips on the outside for support. This will pass at least as much current as the 3 small OEM welds.
However... If you are not careful, you could cut the tabs too short. AND you cannot do 3P 1S this way.
Yabert's tests of Volt packs on the DiyEv car forum suggest a high C rate, 15+ C!:Well, with the right tools, you can take out the cells "as welded" in 3P 1S. It is actually easier than taking out the individual cells and safer. Weight per cell is 1153.0g / 3 with the copper tab left on. There is room to separate the plates for air cooling.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/sh ... 09698.html