18650 spot welding -how to- ULTIMATE REPOSITORY

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Re: 18650 spot welding -how to- ULTIMATE REPOSITORY

Post by DVDRW » May 22, 2017 7:53 am

We all know that 787 welder does not weld 0.15mm to 0.15mm nickel.
But what about 0.1mm nickel to 0.1mm nickel?
Recent Weld/build:
http://i.imgur.com/xiZBpTx.jpg

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Post by aethyr » May 22, 2017 10:25 am

DVDRW wrote:We all know that 787 welder does not weld 0.15mm to 0.15mm nickel.
But what about 0.1mm nickel to 0.1mm nickel?
Recent Weld/build:
http://i.imgur.com/xiZBpTx.jpg
I've switched to 0.1mm strips and my 788h with homemade pen setup welds fine, nickel-to-nickel.

Why are your + terminal connections to your copper bus so thin?

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Post by DVDRW » May 23, 2017 3:56 am

To protect house, cells and save money.
Thanks for the info.

Actually you can just easily weld test if nickel is pure or not.
Ni plated steel: Sparks flying everywhere when welding
Pure nickel: No sparks, little puff of smoke.

So no time consuming salt water test required.

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Post by kdog » May 28, 2017 7:51 pm

.1mm cu bus welded to .15mm ni.
Easy to do this one bc I had ease of placing an electrode each side. Welds are the strength of the cu which is reasonably weak but adequate.
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Post by riba2233 » Aug 10, 2017 6:32 am

Hi guys,

any recommendations for 10m of pure nickel (tested pure) 0.15mm strip? One in the first post is not being sold anymore.

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Post by tommy1212 » Aug 10, 2017 1:11 pm

Building my first battery and looking for advice. Looking for around 72V so i'm thinking 20S 5P or 6P. I've got the sunkko 709 spot welder. I'd prefer to use NCR20700A which are 3000 mah 30A. This pack will have 150A-180A so I need some hefty connections. I can purchase dewalt packs and get great price and have nickel plated copper tabs already welded then solder copper wire for connections but that's not ideal to me. Next option is .02x8mm pure nickel strips with copper wire soldered for series connections. The ultimate option to me is this copper grid with Nickel tabs already welded. If the copper grids don't fit and multiple need to be connected can I just solder them before hand?
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Post by litespeed » Aug 10, 2017 3:30 pm

riba2233 wrote:Hi guys,

any recommendations for 10m of pure nickel (tested pure) 0.15mm strip? One in the first post is not being sold anymore.
Nkon sells it.

Tom
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Post by riba2233 » Aug 11, 2017 1:21 am

Thank you, but it's currently out of stock.

Any recommendations from aliexpress?

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Post by vex_zg » Aug 11, 2017 1:51 am

riba2233 wrote:Thank you, but it's currently out of stock.

Any recommendations from aliexpress?
1 year ago I bought legit nickel from here

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Thickne ... 0.0.umEoPb

and here

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-sh ... 0.0.umEoPb
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Post by riba2233 » Aug 11, 2017 1:59 am

Great, thank you! 8)

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Post by vex_zg » Aug 11, 2017 2:11 am

riba2233 wrote:Great, thank you! 8)
Last year I ordered from 3 sources on aliexpress claiming 99.9% nickel, all turned out to be legit. That can change at any time if they change supplier or just oblivious as to what they are selling. Sretno.

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Post by tommy1212 » Aug 15, 2017 10:16 pm

Doctorbass wrote:
Mr Lowbank wrote:Hi All
Have been mining the Endless sphere for information to build a new pack for my Bomber #127. Thanks to forum members for all the great information.

I decided against 20s14p as it would be a tight fit, weigh more and I really don't think I need the amps. I'm hoping for Sanyo NCR 18650GA Cells but Tumich is out of the GA"s!!. Will be installing Max-E controller and have crystalyte 5405 and 5404 motors.
I have a JP spot welder on the way along with all the other bits I think I might need. After taking onboard all the info about building batteries I have come up with the following design. I'm interested in any comments.
Cheers Jon

Image
Excellent design!

I agree to say that the current share between cells is perfect.
This is a great design. Do the crossed sections need to be soldered where they cross or would the battery welds keep them in contact? I would presolder the x strips and copper braid X-X-X.

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Post by flippy » Sep 03, 2017 2:41 pm

Image


and that was the end of a sukko 709.

had to run it on full power to weld 0.15 and after about 5000 welds it finally gave up with a huge flame, one popped D16 in the distribution box and one entire house smelling like someone blew up a 1970's stereo by running the amp up to 11.
it was coming, i had to cool the transfomer with 2 fans to keep it cool enough so i could touch it, often it was too hot for that. i only stop welding when i could not hold on the electrodes anymore. otherwise building a 400+ cell pack would take weeks.
now i have to wait for the DIY arduino welder from malectrics because no way i am paying another 250 euro's for such a chinese piece of shit.

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Post by spinningmagnets » Sep 03, 2017 7:26 pm

What is the size of that transformer? If you don't want to upgrade the guts of the Sukko, the transformer coil might be useful as an adjustable soldering rig. Pretty cheap and easy to make, once you have a transformer core.

"DIY MOT-based [home] Resistance Soldering Unit (RSU)"
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =2&t=89289

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Post by flippy » Sep 03, 2017 11:32 pm

its basically even smaller then a microwave core. not really usable. considering the primary core blew up means it will need a full rebuild. no way i am going to put that effort into it.

and i already have a good 180W temp controlled soldering iron.

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Post by wire.rat » Sep 04, 2017 1:30 am

flippy wrote:its basically even smaller then a microwave core. not really usable. considering the primary core blew up means it will need a full rebuild. no way i am going to put that effort into it.

and i already have a good 180W temp controlled soldering iron.
Yeah I've got the same one burn up too. Right now I'm using this spot welder that has a blue case and it's transformer is about twice the size of the 709A. I can measure the size of the core when I get home later.
Image

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Post by flippy » Sep 04, 2017 9:33 am

I saw that welder as well when looking for a replacement. But in the end i would face the same problems with overheating and popping MCB's that i went "frock it" and bought a battery based welder. Much more effixient, no more extentions from the breakerbox for the dedicated D class MCB i had for it.

And it was a lot cheaper. But i would love to see a few pics of the insides of that welder.

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Post by wire.rat » Sep 04, 2017 10:42 am

flippy wrote:I saw that welder as well when looking for a replacement. But in the end i would face the same problems with overheating and popping MCB's that i went "frock it" and bought a battery based welder. Much more effixient, no more extentions from the breakerbox for the dedicated D class MCB i had for it.

And it was a lot cheaper. But i would love to see a few pics of the insides of that welder.
Here you go, I have attached a pair of aftermarket probes to the spot welder.
The transformer is much bigger than the 709A

http://imgur.com/a/N8x5L
Last edited by wire.rat on Sep 04, 2017 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by wire.rat » Sep 04, 2017 10:44 am

flippy wrote:I saw that welder as well when looking for a replacement. But in the end i would face the same problems with overheating and popping MCB's that i went "frock it" and bought a battery based welder. Much more effixient, no more extentions from the breakerbox for the dedicated D class MCB i had for it.

And it was a lot cheaper. But i would love to see a few pics of the insides of that welder.
Yeah I'm looking for a Battery/Capacitor Discharge welder too, one that can weld 0.20mm nickel. right now this spot welder can only do up to 0.15 mm.

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Post by wire.rat » Sep 04, 2017 10:50 am

This was how i used my 709A back in January 2017, when the transformer core was getting too hot to touch.
Image

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Post by geckocycles » Sep 22, 2017 9:03 am

DVDRW wrote:Does any of these 78X or similiar welders do 0.15mm nickel to 0.15mm nickel weld? Mine dont (220V version).
0.15mm nickel to battery is ok. So what silverish material is 18650 terminals made of? Attracts magnet so its not stainless steel. Not copper and nickel either.
My 110v didn't and was told I should of got the 220v so I did. It did no better. It does .1mm//004" Nickle and 30AWG fuse wire.

Got malectrics welders now. Ver3 is nice and Marc is a great guy to work with.

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Post by flippy » Oct 05, 2017 7:13 am

yes i used the welder from him for a 200 cel pack and i like it. the only problem is that my battery is a bit too much i think.

i need to have it at 2~3ms at best because of the insane current my 60Ah lifepo4 pack (60Ah winston cells) can deliver. it's weird to need to have a more shitty battery in order to have more control.

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Post by felix991 » Nov 07, 2017 1:17 am

flippy wrote:Image


and that was the end of a sukko 709.

had to run it on full power to weld 0.15 and after about 5000 welds it finally gave up with a huge flame, one popped D16 in the distribution box and one entire house smelling like someone blew up a 1970's stereo by running the amp up to 11.
it was coming, i had to cool the transfomer with 2 fans to keep it cool enough so i could touch it, often it was too hot for that. i only stop welding when i could not hold on the electrodes anymore. otherwise building a 400+ cell pack would take weeks.
now i have to wait for the DIY arduino welder from malectrics because no way i am paying another 250 euro's for such a chinese piece of shit.
Are you running this on 110 or 220v? Reason I ask is I just ordered and received a 788H and I was hoping it would be more reliable than this. I havnt had a chance to test it yet because I am waiting on the electrician to wire 220V in my garage. I have heard a lot of people running these on 110 and having problems so I was just basically taking a poll.

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Post by flippy » Nov 07, 2017 4:06 am

i am running it on 220. you do need a heavy MCD (al LEAST a C rating) in order to prevent it popping the MCD when turning it on. or use a in line resistor and an bypass switch to control the massive short that the transformer creates when powering on.

i was running it quite hard, full power is needed to weld 0.15 decently (0.3 is impossible). and i only stopped when the electrodes get too hot too hold on. if you make big packs like i do (400 cells) then you need to keep going otherwise you will be welding days on end for a single pack. if you only do smaller packs and take plenty of space between welds and build some serious cooling into the housing (use 2 120mm computer fans) you can get it fairly reliable. it took quite a bit of abuse before it actually died. do get a proper triac on standby because the original fake chinese POS one will blow its arse out in the first week.

but now i am running the above mentioned malectrics as a replacement and that is built much better. as long as you dont kill it with some stupid overpowerd battery like i did by accident (and part by a slight design issue that has been fixed now). that said: his support is awesome. within 3 days i had replacement parts. if the 788 dies then i recommend this one as a replacement.

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Re: 18650 spot welding -how to- ULTIMATE REPOSITORY

Post by Allex » Nov 07, 2017 4:15 pm

Just some interesting videos here:


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