Advice building a 88/111V battery from 22.2V 10000mAh LiPO

sketchism

100 W
Joined
Feb 17, 2016
Messages
177
Location
GC, Australia
I'm looking at building a new battery for a 96V setup i'm looking at , and i'm considering building it from something like these ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TAOTUO-10000mAh-22-2V-30C-6S-LiPo-Battery-For-DJI-S800-S900-RC-Helicopter-/131385397081?hash=item1e972e0f59:g:FM8AAOSwpDdVEWlU )

A) has anyone had experience using the 22.2V packs compared to the 18.5? the 10Ah is very appealing to be able to build a 66V from 3 (for my 48V bike), or 88 from 4

B) Would 111v 5 pack setup be too much for a 96V controller? And i'd be safer using 88v (fresh charge 100v?) ?

C) would 66v be too much for a 60V controller?

D) i have two of these 48V 11.6 AH 30A nom discharge dolphin packs, what if i wired them in series to give me 96V (would that still only give me 96V 11.6ah 30A discharge? i would like to be able to pull down 50+A)

E) is there a better option for 10-15 AH of 60-96 Volts at high C
 
Hi Sket

A) 6s is 25.2 volts if you charge the lipo to 4.2v, I charge my 6s to only 4.0-4.1 giving me 24.6 volt. 18.5 volt is a 5s? not sure what you mean by this.

B & C) I was told that you never want to run more battery volt then the caps are rated for. Like if you have caps rated for 100v you should not have a battery fully charged that is over 100v. You should be a few volts below the caps max rating.

D) When packs are in series the max draw stay the same as if you are running just 1 pack but voltage increase, when packs are in parallel you double the max amp draw (what I mean is the C rating on the parallel pack stays the same but the max amp it can supply will double if you use the same pack). For example a 5000mah lipo @ 20c will still be a 20c discharge if you have 2 in parallel, what change is the max amp draw. A single 5000mah @ 20c will give you 5ah x 20c = 100amp when you parallel them you get 10000mah @ 20c 10ahx 20c = 200amp.

C) There are many ways you can config this to meet your requirements, parallel lipo packs to meet desired AH or parallel lipo packs to meet amp draw requirements.
Each one has its benefits and drawbacks, depending on the setup the pack to meet your requirements can get very large.

The pack you have linked are 10ah x 30c = 300amp draw
In series they will be 10ah x 30c = 300amp @ 4.2v per cell x 12 cells = 50.4 volts charge to the max.
In parallel it would be 20ah x 30c 600amp draw current @ 4.2 per cell x 6 cells = 25.20 volts.

Hobbyking has new graphene lipo that has decent C rating and AH.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...S_15C_LiPo_Pack_w_5_5mm_Bullet_Connector.html
 
Thanks for the detailed reply, i have been researching all night (its 4 am here in aus)


this will be my first lipo build but i have some experience with them from RC hovercrafts, although not at this size and i really appreciate the help


and think a good middle ground would be 4 of the graphine 6s 16ah that you kindly linked as they are in stock in Australia
and dealing with 4 packs instead of 8 is very appealing

So for my 96 V bike, 4 of those 6s 16ah 15c packs in series will give me a battery of 24S 88v/100v 16Ah 200Adischarge?
if i want to run it on my 48V then i could run them 12s2p for 44v/50v 32Ah 400A Discharge?

So as long as i install a low voltage buzzer on each pack and walk home if it goes off, don't drain them below 20% or 3-3.2v per cell or pull more than 200A from them, and balance them when i charge that should be all i need to do to not explode?

i currently have this 4 port 6s charger for my RC stuff, is it acceptable?
http://hitecrcd.com/products/chargers/acdc-chargers/x4-ac-plus-4-port-acdc-multi-charger/product


Thanks again
 
Would these 6s 16ah 10C ones be too low dicharge compared to the graphine 15c?

they are much more affordable (half the price) but 10C not 15 (160A but i would only be drawing 60-80 max) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=69143

what are your thoughts on the two, in short, is the 5c difference worth $700?
 
I am in the same boat as you when I started my trike build last year. My knowledge of lipo was small scale pro 4wd racing and flying drones.
But if you think logically and take a step back you can see the bigger picture and how all of it comes together.

I guess first question is do you have a way to tell how much amp your current system max draw is? like a wattage meter or a cycle analyst.
Most basic DD/mid drive kit only needs a 10c lipo setup to keep them happy. I only asked because you stated you need high C rated lipos.

sketchism said:
So for my 96 V bike, 4 of those 6s 16ah 15c packs in series will give me a battery of 24S 88v/100v 16Ah 200Adischarge?
if i want to run it on my 48V then i could run them 12s2p for 44v/50v 32Ah 400A Discharge?

Remember the voltage they display on the website are the rested voltage not the max charged voltage.
24s @ 3.7 rested voltage = 88.8 volt. Rested or stored voltage is where you want to keep them when you are not using them for long periods so they do not get damage.
Once you get the pack and charge them to full capacity will give you 24s @4.2 volt = 100.8 volt full pack.

So as long as i install a low voltage buzzer on each pack and walk home if it goes off, don't drain them below 20% or 3-3.2v per cell or pull more than 200A from them, and balance them when i charge that should be all i need to do to not explode?

You can find alot of information about using lipo for ebike on this forum using the search function but to give you a short answer to get you started. I was told never to charge each cell more then 4.1 you can but you have to burn it off right away and do not let them sit at 4.2 for long period. Something happens inside the lipo that builds up and cause the lipo to decrease capacity the longer you have it sitting at 4.2. Also from 4.1 to 4.2 the benefit is very very small and the down side is you will be waiting longer if you have the charger balance charge all cells to 4.2 instead of 4.1.

Draining is the same, you never want to drain the lipo lower then 3.6 (I only drain mine to 3.7).
The more expensive the pack the better they are @ keeping balance once they drain close to the "cliff".
My turnigy lipo cliff is right around 3.7 to 3.6 any lower and each cells start to get out of balance and it takes longer to get them back in balance when charging to 4.1.

i currently have this 4 port 6s charger for my RC stuff, is it acceptable?
http://hitecrcd.com/products/chargers/acdc-chargers/x4-ac-plus-4-port-acdc-multi-charger/product

I have not direct experience with this charger but I have used 2 imax b6 charger to charge my 22s.
Since then I have upgarded to a larger charger that can dual charge @ 30amps each channel.
The b6 was only pushing 5amps.
I guess any balance charger is fine if you have the patience.
Reading the data on your charger it max out @ 22amps.

sketchism said:
Would these 6s 16ah 10C ones be too low dicharge compared to the graphine 15c?

they are much more affordable (half the price) but 10C not 15 (160A but i would only be drawing 60-80 max) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=69143

what are your thoughts strewn the two, in short is the 5c difference worth $700?

There are quite a few members on this forum that use the multistar line for ebikes to escooter and eboards.
But you have to understand that the 10c rating is overly exaggerated. They are more 1/3 the listed C rating so maybe 3-4C.
But in parallel they would make a fine setup.
You should look up member icecube57 he has a 4t mxus build running on these multistar and he is a heavier set person like I am.

Side note: Today I took my trike for a ride after changing some of the controller settings on my 12fet lyen controller pushing a 6t mxus motor with a combine weight of 320lbs.
I had change the speed setting from 99% to 120% and phase/ batter amps from 40 to 60 amps.
My max amp that I pull on the block in front my house before the modification was 40ish amp to max speed of 29.8mph.
Since I have made the changes to the controller I now push 34.6mph with a max amp of 52.
My battery are hobbyking turnigy 20c 6s 5000mah and 20c 5s 5000mah.
I have 6s x 4 in parallel giving me 6s 20000mah @ 20c and 5s x 4 = 5s 20000mah @ 20c.
I have 2 of the 6s4p and 2 5s4p = 22s in series @ 4.1 volt each cell 90.2 volt total pack, my lyen controller is rated max voltage 96-100.
Using those numbers conservatively and only half the C rating 20ah x 10c = 200amp my pack can easily handle the controller requirements.

I hope I helped more then confused you. :D
 
Hi Simon thanks again for the reply!

So if i don't go above 4.2 per cell 98.4 for the 24s pack (or below 3.7) and only use 80% of the ah any ride i'm all good?

Then i can run say 60a through a 24s 16ah at around 4c and be pushing a max of 5900 through this setup with those Multistar 6S 16000mAh's

This is the kit i am looking at for the new build with what looks like a leaf motor clone? if its rated at 5000w than i should be free and clear with that setup maybe even at 50A yeah?
 
That controller looks like a Sabvoton sinewave.
http://www.sabvoton.com/product/72v-6kw-brushless-motor-controller.html#.VskmSvkrL5U

I am not sure what the make of the motor is and if it is a Leaf clone then maybe this link can help you see what kind of power you can put into that motor.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=66489

4.2 per cell is 100 v
4.1 per cell is 98 v
I would charge to 4.1 and not go lower then 3.7 or 3.6
16000mah multistar @ 4c will give you 16*4 = 64 amps
The controller being a 80amp controller you might need to add another string of 24s in parallel to give it enough amps the controller required or you can always program the controller to pull max 60amps.
I am also in the learning process of ebikes and all the components and how the interact with each other. Maybe someone can chime in and better answer if those multistar lipo in single serial string can supply enough amp for the Sabvoton controller.
 
Perfect thanks :)

Well limited to 60 at that voltage gives me just over 5000w which is what I was aiming for

For around $1800 aud including some low voltage alarms and turning watt meter.


Does that cost/power ratio seem fair to you guys?
I actually tried to buy the 10kw complete hyena kit but can't get hold of them so I'm doing it the fun way.
 
If i was looking for 80-100 A at 98V - 16ah would these Graphine ones do it? or would i still be ok hitting 5C/80A from the Multistar's just on acceleration?

What is the actual C rating i could pull from these compared to the Multistars considering they're twice the price?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__89616__Turnigy_Graphene_Professional_16000mAh_6S_15C_LiPo_Pack_w_5_5mm_Bullet_Connector.html
 
Whatever C rating they say, figure 1/4 of that is a good number for road use on a bike. You want a pack that is not too hot at the end of the ride. Hot pack every ride will die sooner.

As for monitoring voltage, if your packs are all pretty good matched, you can just watch a pack voltage display and know when to stop. Below 3.65v per cell average, resting, slow down, to keep the battery cooler. Not much left by then anyway, a few blocks at most. Ideally be back by 3.65v. Or count watthours, and know by that display when to turn for home.

If you watch your packs closely enough at first, you will determine which pack has the weakest cell in it. Then you put one buzzer on just that pack. That weak cell will always set it off first. But if a pack has a cell reallllly out of whack, trash can it.
 
thanks dogman

i noticed hyena actually runs the same multistars, although in a 22S 2p combo for 36ah and 120A draw, maybe this would be the go, its STILL cheaper than the 15C graphine packs, and twice the AH, although its certainly going to be hefty.


if i used these packs on my other (48V atm) bike with the Goldenmotor BAC-0501 as a 16Ssp (2 6S and one 4s pack) would it be able to handle the 65 volts at 4.1V per cell?
http://goldenmotorcz.en.made-in-china.com/product/xMwJGlvOABUq/China-48V-2000W-BLDC-Motor-Controller.html

and would i have to do any other wiring if i use Multistar packs with different cell amounts instead of 2 or 3 6S packs, or can i just hook them up in series?
 
sketchism said:
if i used these packs on my other (48V atm) bike with the Goldenmotor BAC-0501 as a 16Ssp (2 6S and one 4s pack) would it be able to handle the 65 volts at 4.1V per cell?
http://goldenmotorcz.en.made-in-china.com/product/xMwJGlvOABUq/China-48V-2000W-BLDC-Motor-Controller.html

I do not think it can handle a 16s setup. Reading the forums on golden motor site the max you can run is 57-58 volts leaving a few 2-3 for voltage spikes. A 14s will work (5s + 5s + 4s) or (6s + 4s + 4s) in series.

Not sure what you mean by running 3 x 6s multistar pack on the same controller? It would not work out due to the caps rated for only 60v. If you have 4 of the 6s you can run them 12s2p. Wiring them is determine mainly I think to how you are going to charge them. I use a lipo charger so I always parallel the pack first then series them on the controller. When its time to charger I disconnect the serial connect and parallel charge with a harness I have made.
 
ohh i see! (i also just finished reading the multistar thread thanks for linking that)

So for the bike with the BAC-0501 i could build a light multistar 16Ah pack (4+4+6) and run at 40A to stay around 2.5C and be under the 60V max for that controller but still get a boost on the old 20A-48V battery, and 2300 watts

or double that in parallel for 80A and 32ah and 4600w? but i don't think that 1kw motor would like it (even oil cooled) and i dont need more than 25Km range for my ride
 
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