I had a few minutes to kill, so I scanned some ES Googles:

from NeilP

I would say...use XPD rather than Lyen /keywin software..then you can turn block time down to 0.1 seconds

Greater phase current gives more acceleration....I think......try various settings and see...up to about 2.5 to 3 times the battery current. So try phase current up to 90A with your battery current set at 30 amps...I have my 18 FET lyen 4110 set at...80 or 90 amps battery, can't remember what the phase is set at. I do see peaks of 130 amps battery even with over-current detection set to 0 seconds

from madin88

roughly you can say:

High phase amps = good acceleration from zero to mid speed

High battery amps = good acceleration from mid to top speed

You don't have to set up phase to 2,5 x battery amps. Just do it how you like.

For higher efficiency, lower phase amps is better. You can also save some energy if you pedal from a dead stop to a few km/h and then very slowly open up the throttle

from gwhy!

There is really no right or wrong answer for the amount of phase current limit...a ball park figure is 2.0 - 2.5 x battery current, The trick is to get the right balance and the best way ( well my way, and it may not be the best )to do this is to start with around 1.2 x battery current then go out for a ride ( with a watt meter fitted ) and see if the current limit set in the controller is being reached, if the max current is below the set current limit then up the phase current to 1.4 x battery current and so on until the max battery current limit is being reached this will then be your optimum phase current level. The motors and gearing I use this is normally around 1.4x battery current, but...on a hub motor I would expect this to be a higher level more like 1.8x battery current. You can go a little higher and this, and it will improve the low speed torque but this will very much depend on other factors. I have yet to find any benefit going over around 2.2x battery current on any of the motors/setups that I have played with... but that's not to say that will not benefit all setups...

...if you go too high with the phase current you could pop your controller if the motor is really chugging and the throttle speed is being dragged down to much, a standard 12fet controller should be ok for around a safe max of around a total of 150A phase current ( can be ok up to around 200A, this depends of the type of fets in the controller and the setup ( motor and gearing ) if I was you, I would play it really safe and do no more than 100A phase current. So if your Battery current is 50A, set phase current to no more than 150A ( 3x battery current ) or be extra safe and use 50A battery and a phase of 100A ( 2x battery current ). As NeilP said set the block time down to 0 this will ( should ) limit the current as fast as possible if a over current situation occurs. The optimum settings will just be the less stressful ( but working 100% correct ) settings for the controller...

from John in CR

The way I do it is to first determine the proper ratio for that motor controller combination. Set the battery limit at modest power and set the phase limit the same, 1:1 ratio. No field weakening or overspeed settings. Spin it up no load, and also give it a road try up to max speed, so you can hear and feel what the motor is like when starved of phase current on takeoff and at the top end. Often it won't even spin up to full no-load speed. In small increments increase phase current until it doesn't sound or feel starved of current, but you're not looking for hard launch yet. Once it seems to be functioning and sounding correct at that modest power level note the phase:battery limit ratio.

Now start turning both up at the same time and maintaining that ratio until you get to the desired power and thrust on takeoff that you want. The end result will be higher power than you had the other way, but the motor and controller will be less stressed, ie less heat, especially under load at lower rpm. FWIW, Zombiess used a similar approach to come up with a 1.8:1 optimum ratio for his 4t Cromotor...

...It sounds like your battery is the limitation, because the controller can go higher. The relatively soft acceleration is the lower Kt, torque per amp, of a high Kv motor, which needs proportionately higher current. The already warm controller is in large part due to that controller brand struggling with the lower inductance of high Kv motors.

The penalty of using high phase/battery current limit ratios is excess motor heat. More torque means more heat. When you tune so high that launch torque can easily flip the bike or throttle response is too jerky, then what seems cool and powerful comes back around and bites you in the ass in the form of heat, especially at partial throttle under higher loads like off road up hills.

Instead of extra waste heat at low speeds your new settings gives you more real power and acceleration through the mid-range where making some extra heat isn't such a danger to your motor.

ghwy!

set battery current to something safe i.e 40-50A , set over-current detection to 0.0s ( this is very important ) set phase to approximately 1.5x battery current. You need a watt meter, or amp meter or calibrated ca on the bike. On a slightly uphill ( maybe a 2-4% grade) piece of road accelerate hard ( from stop ) up to top speed or until it stop accelerating but throttle is at WOT( this may take a while so you need a longish stretch of road ) then check watt meters max current pull, if the max current pulled is less than your set battery current then you need to increase the phase current, maybe by 10A or if the set battery current is reached then reduce phase current by 10A. You keep increasing or decreasing the phase current until the max current pulled from the battery is what you have set it to. Once you have found a battery/phase ratio where the max battery current is always reached then this will be the ratio you would use when increasing the battery and phase current together.

If the phase current is too low, then you will never reach full speed or max battery current. My controllers use a ratio of around x1.7 for the motors, gearing , my riding style and total weight of my bikes

Another method I have used is set at a much lower battery limit maybe 20A and a phase limit of 30A with the wheel off the ground go WOT and then start applying the brake to slow the driven wheel down ( loading the motor ) when the wheel is appox half the max speed, watch the battery current on the watt meter this should go to your set max battery current and should stay there as the driven wheel gets slower and slower until the controller cuts out ( locked rotor fault protect ) and the same applies increase or decrease phase current until you see the set max battery current limit hit, always just before the controller cuts out. Each test only needs to take around 5 secs so its a much quicker method of finding the optimum phase setting for the motor.

Once you have found your optimum phase ratio you can always turn the battery current down and keep the phase limit at the optimum.