I have all the components for my ebike I just have to assemble. First off what gauge wire do you use? I plan on wiring a watt meter, lights and other accessories. It seems that 10awg will be more than enough.
10 awg wire is heavy, a little too thick to use w/ 4 mm bullet connectors and not needed. For building my pack, I use 14 Awg, which matches the 4 mm bullet Y connectors (Ebay) I use to parallel the bricks and the leads on the Watt meter. Sometimes I use 12 awg for the final run from the pack to the controller, but I doubt it's needed for 12S to 14S.
Speaking of the Watt meter, I have one, but I only use it for testing the controller's output. Since it needs to be placed in series in a spot where it's visible, that usually means extra run of large gauge wires that are not stealthy. And it also needs to have a switch or the LED screen will drain the batt., a PITA. The only info I deem necessary concerns Volts, a meter as a "fuel" gauge and maybe a low Voltage alarm. A LCD Voltmeter (no drain)only needs thin gauge wires that are easy to hide. Everything else is just entertainment.
Also what storage voltage do you set your batteries to? Reading over the forum I believe you have your batteries set at 3.90 v but storage voltage is usually 3.70-3.80.
3.70V to 3.80V/cell takes too long to top charge when you are waiting to ride. 3.90 V is fine for MultiStar and if I'm only going on a short ride, I go at that Voltage. Longer rides, I go to 4.10V, which doesn't take long.
When you are riding how low do you let your voltage go around 3.60? Also I have hobby king battery medics and personally they seem useless. After discharging for a day they have not performed at all they’ve only unbalanced. I just wanted to test them out and attempted to balance the cells to 3.75 when most of the cells were at 3.76 to get all cells perfectly in balance. After checking the BM the next day the cells are at 3.74 3.75 and 3.76. The BM is still balancing away what battery medics do you use?
I warned you about which Battery Medics in an above post. Here is another post I just made;
Unfortunately, the Original Battery Medic has been cloned and the clones are junk. The Black ones are especially bad as they over-heat and the screen goes black. HK should not be selling those as they are a rip off.
There are two Blue ones that work OK, but one is better than the other.
The best ones have the higher-discharge light-bulb arary for a faster discharge, like this one;
https://www.amazon.com/Targethobby-Disc ... discharger
The light bulbs are not necessary to use, but this BM allows setting the Values by .01 V, ie; 3.91V, 3.92V, 3.93V, etc.
The other Blue ones only allow setting the values by .05V, ie; 3.90V, 3.95V, 4.00V, etc."
Also the original link;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/150W-3- ... 17404.html
I don't know what you re doing with the Battery Medics, but they are dead simple and work every time for me. The only prob. I have ever had w/ them is the over-heating prob. w/ the black ones that I out-lined above.
Also do you just use a voltage meter on your charger or do you use a watt meter so you can see the amps too.
Yes, I use both. The Watts start to fall off when nearing top charge and after a while, you will know when to adj. the top charge value by the Current reading. You can use that 10 awg wire you don't need to make long leads that reach the pack on the bike. Trim the core to fit the 4 mm bullets.