High Power Battery 2kWh (20S-9P) for Flux Beta Frame

Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
327
Location
Cyprus
Hello guys,

I've built a new battery pack for my flux beta made by 180 Samsung 30Q cells.
I upload some photos in case someone wants to build something similar.
It took me about 6-7 hours to build the pack with brakes and about 2-3 hours to prepare the cable management
in the frame in order to be able to install the big battery pack. At the end I've added lot of padding (it's not visible at the photos).
I am not professional so please don't judge me for any mistakes you see.

PIC1.jpg

PIC2.jpg

PIC3.jpg

PIC4.jpg

PIC5.jpg

PIC6.jpg

PIC7.jpg

PIC8.jpg

PIC9.jpg

PIC10.jpg

PIC11.jpg

PIC12.jpg

PIC13.jpg
 
icherouveim said:
Rix said:
Nicely done, 15S 9P?

Thanks!
No there are two floors 15S 9P + 5S 9P
so the whole pack is 20S 9P
you can see them at the photos.

Saw that, didn't realize the packs were daisy chained together in series. EVEN BETTER :twisted: :twisted:

I guess I should have pulled my head out of my a$$ and read the title of the thread. :oops:
 
Matador said:
nice. must be quite expensive build

probably not too bad given the high-end cells. ~$5 a cell, bit extra for strips etc, 180 cells... might get away just under 1k. Cheapest HK packs were $30 for 4s 5ah... bare in mind they're more expensive now, but that'd be ~$750. Cant get those packs now, so that'd be closer to 1k too.
 
Matador said:
nice. must be quite expensive build
Good morning,

Actually it wasn't very expensive.
I've bought 200 cells from nkon.nl and I've got a good price. I've used 180 of them this is was the maximum I could fit into this small frame.

Samsung 18­650-30Q 200 €576.86 no VAT
Plus shipping cost
 
Lash said:
This looks really good. well done.

Interesting that you kept the BMS wrapped in with the battery. Makes for a neater build i guess.
My only concern would be if you ever have to balance it manually you will have to unwrap it all.

I'll certainly be making notes if i build up a beta :)

Hello Lash,

I've watched your build many times, good job!
You are right about the BMS but this is was the only way to go for this project because the space is limited.
 
Good morning,

Today is a very windy day even about this I've decided to go for a bigger test drive.
I've done 40km with almost full speed at the most of the time, OVS 2 and 26% battery left.
So if I want to use the full capacity of the pack I will do approximately 50-55km with aggressive driving style.
Not bad for boost mode 115 battery amps 235 phase amps (I have a small motor HS3540).

PIC14.jpg

PIC15.jpg
 
That battery is a piece of art. Good job dude.
Btw have you considered using a more efficient motor? I used to have a 3540 and noticed a big difference using the same battery when I upgraded setup.
 
rojitor said:
That battery is a piece of art. Good job dude.
Btw have you considered using a more efficient motor? I used to have a 3540 and noticed a big difference using the same battery when I upgraded setup.

Thank you!

You are absolutely right about the motor, I think it will be my next upgrade.
Which motor do you suggest?
They say the best all around is Mxus V3.
 
Is that the Midi-E controller?

The battery pack looks great! It's exactly what I would want for a Beta build.

Correct me if I am wrong but 115 Battery Amps would be a little over 4C discharge right?

30Q cells advertise 15A continuous discharge from a single 3000mAhr cell (5C), so sounds achievable.

Does the frame get hot at all while riding?
 
RobboCop said:
Is that the Midi-E controller?

The battery pack looks great! It's exactly what I would want for a Beta build.

Correct me if I am wrong but 115 Battery Amps would be a little over 4C discharge right?

30Q cells advertise 15A continuous discharge from a single 3000mAhr cell (5C), so sounds achievable.

Does the frame get hot at all while riding?

Hello,

Yes this is an adaptto midi-e.

115A is the peak power, the continuous power is somewhere between 45-70A.

This battery pack is capable of 135A continuous so it is more than enough for this setup and to have long life at the same time.

At the first test drive I've used the most of the energy up to 26%, the temperature of the side covers was about 25-30 degrees of Celsius.

The bike is soo fast with this battery, when I go for example 60-65km/h I push the throttle and I feel lot of acceleration.

For the last two years I had 14s battery pack and I can say that 20s pack at 115A makes a huge difference.

if you decide to build a similar pack try to copy everything over wise it won't fit into the frame.
 
Your final build looks awesome!!!! Get me some closer pics with your Beta and the Med Sea in the background and I will post it on PEA Facebook. Also, I just want to see some close up pictures.
 
Nice work, that's jamming alot of electrons into the beta! You could have even gotten away with sanyo GA cells at a pinch considering you'd rarely hit 3C and that'd be 2.3kwhr 8)
 
Rix said:
Your final build looks awesome!!!! Get me some closer pics with your Beta and the Med Sea in the background and I will post it on PEA Facebook. Also, I just want to see some close up pictures.

Thanks Rix,

I will send you when I have some
 
Hyena said:
Nice work, that's jamming alot of electrons into the beta! You could have even gotten away with sanyo GA cells at a pinch considering you'd rarely hit 3C and that'd be 2.3kwhr 8)

Thank you Hyena,

I've learned from you guys and every day I learn something new, so a BIG thanks to all of the team!
it's good to share everything.

I was thinking about sanyo GA cells also but I think 30Q cells are better for my setup because I want to be able
to use the maximum power of the midi-e controller that is 115A battery amps.
 
Careful with that cross pattern layout for the main pack.
You have 5 strip connections for 120A of current(or more, don't know how high your peaks are on your midi) this means some strips will see 25A
You could go with a more traditional nickel placement making 6 connections instead, would save you nickel, work and give you less heat and more balanced cells. =)
Actually I would just use your wide nickel for the main pack as well, that would be perfect!
See my battery thread for more info.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=84412


Next time do it like so if you don't have any wide nickel:
IMG_2169.JPG
 
Allex said:
Careful with that cross pattern layout for the main pack.
You have 5 strip connections for 120A of current(or more, don't know how high your peaks are on your midi) this means some strips will see 25A
You could go with a more traditional nickel placement making 6 connections instead, would save you nickel, work and give you less heat and more balanced cells. =)
Actually I would just use your wide nickel for the main pack as well, that would be perfect!
See my battery thread for more info.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=84412


Next time do it like so if you don't have any wide nickel:
IMG_2169.JPG

Thanks for the PIC alex!

I will check your threat, I haven't seen it before.

My peak power is 115A maximum for 4-5 sec and the continuous power between 35 - 70A
the nickel strip is 10X0.15 mm

will it get hot ?
 
Yep first thing I noticed. Whilst it seems flash, the crisscross pattern is an inefficient use of nickel and results in a poor number of series connects. If you are drawing 120amps, this is of considerable concern as in I would undo and beef up those traces.
10x.2mm ni at 30a gets very hot- i can touch it but not hold it. Reaches this temp after about 20 seconds. Roughly similar to your situation of 10x .15mm @20a
So you have 45 ~60+deg heaters wrapped up in insulation.... Yes it will get hot.
I'd be adding more nickel to those series connects. I'd be comfortable with 10 series connects of that gauge nickel at that power draw so putting a layer on top would suffice.
It'll be worth the effort
 
kdog said:
Yep first thing I noticed. Whilst it seems flash, the crisscross pattern is an inefficient use of nickel and results in a poor number of series connects. If you are drawing 120amps, this is of considerable concern as in I would undo and beef up those traces.
10x.2mm ni at 30a gets very hot- i can touch it but not hold it. Reaches this temp after about 20 seconds. Roughly similar to your situation of 10x .15mm @20a
So you have 45 ~60+deg heaters wrapped up in insulation.... Yes it will get hot.
I'd be adding more nickel to those series connects. I'd be comfortable with 10 series connects of that gauge nickel at that power draw so putting a layer on top would suffice.
It'll be worth the effort

This is really strange because even when I empty the pack the side covers are almost cold.
probably is because I draw 115A only for 4 sec end then my continuous power is only 35 to 70A maximum so the pack stays cool.
Thanks for the advice, next time I will add more layers :)
 
Hello,

I come back after more than 14 months to report how the battery is doing.
I use my ebike daily and I have done 6000km. Normally I charge each cell up to 4.15V
and only 5-6 times I have charged them up to 4.20V. When I commute to work I use
maximum 20%-30% of the energy and only when I go outside of the city I empty the battery
almost every time.
I slow charge the battery overnight 0.4A per/cell.

The battery pack now sags more and the acceleration is not the same like it was when it was new,
but it is acceptable.

Today I've done a capacity test, I drove outside of the city at the boost mode and only 2-3% left.
After 14 months of use and 6000km the average Voltage is lower and the resistance is higher.
I still get 1500Wh at the boost mode 115 battery amps. I think the results are not bad.
What is your opinion ?

I attach pics from adaptto's statistics screens.
The Total Stats screens says 331 cycles & 124 full, I don't know if it's 331 in total or 331 + 124



StatsWattMeter.jpg

TotalStats.jpg
 
Back
Top