i have a cheap voltmeter wired in... displays battery voltage or a percentage... usually around 20%
amberwolf wrote: ↑Feb 22, 2018 2:08 pmnot enough storage space on the bike to have all batteries in parallel and the bikes getting heavy enough as is =PThe first thing I'd recommend is running all the packs in parallel, becuase the load will be less on every one of them, and have less voltage sag and less power lost as heat. So you'll get more total range with them all connected at the same time in parallel than you will with them separate.
what value would i be looking for when testing resistance?The second thing is to check that all the cells in the Vruzend pack are actually getting good connections, with equal connection resistance. If some of the paralleled cells in each group (or any one group) are not connected well, those cells will contribute less to the current provided, and sag more, and the whole group will perform poorly.
If the series connections between groups have high resistance, then teh entire pack will perform poorly, with a lot of voltage sag, and as it gets closer to empty that sag means cutouts due to LVC (either of the controller or the BMS, if any), even though there's potentially plenty of capacity left.
The third thing to check is whether or not those cells are actually all good, (or what they say they are). Bad cells cause low capacity or poor performance or both. One cell group that's not fully charging, or is self-discharging, will reduce the whole pack's performance by that amount.I got the bms from vruzend as well.. overall the pack charges up to 41.6 roughly and seems to be balancing well so farIf it's just an unbalanced group, if you have a BMS, leaving it on the charger overnight will fix a small imbalance, but a large one may take days or weeks to fix. If you have a single-cell charger you can manually fix it a lot quicker. If you have no BMS then the SC charger is the only way to fix an imbalance, or an RC charger that has a balance mode.
no, it works for lith ion...you just set it up for what ever battery type u got... today i payed a hair more attention to voltage and would say around 34-35v is about when the batteries start to get sluggish...
Yeah wow, that is crap, 50% loss of range due to cold, its things like this you never see on mainstream media or even all the silly big-fan Tesla 3 youtube reviews, found the spot where they mention that specifically https://youtu.be/D2gmphV8IZQ?t=5m47s
no clue, but heres the link to the hub i bought... id assume a range of something like 30-40amp? but the BMS is a 35amp max so that would cap it even if the controller wanted more...
heres what the site says which i may have overlooked but an interesting thought..
I bought the earlier Samsung/LG batteries from Alarmhookup. I've run them down and filled them up, and my wattmeter always says they're 4AH. So using them as a calibration, your new battery is 16AH x 16/25, or 10 AH? That is way off. However, it's very consistent with your first battery.djbrandonr wrote: ↑Feb 21, 2018 3:55 pmBattery 1 - is a 10s5p 10Ah from diteboard.com about 16mi before the bike starts getting slow
Battery 2 - is a 10s8p comprised of 4 - 10s2p packs all connected in paralell. These are the ebay packs from alarmhookup if youre familiar and although advertised as 4.4Ah per pack, online tests show closer to 4Ah... so 16Ah and this will yield me 25mi about before its slow
Battery 3 - DIY 10s6p 30Qs (from NKON) and supposed to be my highest capacity pack at 18Ah.... sadly i get about 16mi from this pack and not sure why.