Lets play build a battery.

timbodaciois

10 mW
Joined
Jul 26, 2018
Messages
27
Hey guys ill be working with a 20kw water cooled motor from golden motor and while i realize i should be mocking a battery from zero motorcycles i was wondering what you guys could come up with. I would like to be able to hold 65mph for 50 miles and of course would need a bms. I can also run dual batteries and switch between them for more range. Any ideas are appreciated.
 
If you literally mean 65mph for 50 miles, and not top speed of 65mph, and average range of 50 miles, you're looking at a fairly hefty battery.

Unless you have the aerodynamic profile of a recumbent, you'll need at least 5kw where the rubber meets the road to sustain 65mph. More like 6 to 6.5kw at the battery.

To do this for an hour and not have to worry about damaging or prematurely wearing the battery, you'd want at least 6.5kwh. A single 18650 cell holds 7-10wh or a hit more if you go premium or 21700s, so you're looking at 600-1000 of those.

Or a large drone battery holds around 400wh, so 15+ of those.

We're talking thousands of dollars here, and 20-40kg depending on the route you too. Is this what you were expecting? No offense, but many come here expecting Tesla performance for Hyundai price. Just wanting to make sure you weren't.
 
6.5kWh would be minimum in my opinion. i would try and cram 8kWh in the frame. it would fit and weigh about 40~45kg and have about 800 cells and would ensure you get the range you wwant even when the pack starts wearing out. you can also not charge fully to increase the lifespan and still get the range you want.
not gonna be cheap. i recon at least 2500 euro's in cells alone. not counting holders, nickel, BMS, phat copper wire and all that good stuff.

if you are willing to spend the cash for the battery you can have a pretty serious bike that can outaccelerate almost any other petrol bike.
 
Yeah a half-decent Wh/km for a motorcycle at highway speeds is about 120 Wh/km or 200 Wh/mile

50 miles range means ~10 kWh, or about US$5000-US$10,000
65 miles range means ~12.5 kWh, which will cost you somewhere between US$6000 and US$12,000.

Entirely possible, and would be a fun bike to cruise around on. Not cheap though.
 
Just realised 200 Wh/mi is probably on the high side. Maybe 150 Wh/mi is about right?

Either way - big battery.
 
depends on a few factors, but 150 is a good baseline to have, so a 8kWh battery would be borderline.
 
i would go with 18650's. cheaper and can be made into the shape of the bike. and you buy them new unlike the EV cells and they are much simpler to build a housing for as you dont need an inch of plastic to keep the cells compressed.
 
If you want to ride it and not spend all your time trouble shooting, go with Leaf modules. If you don't want to ride it and prefer wrenching on it continuously and spend more money and time reworking what you built over and over again, try to build a monster battery out of little can cells.
 
amberwolf said:
As long as you don't mind a thousand-cell pack, anyway. ;)

i can make you a 8500 cell battery so you can slap it under a car if you feel like it. :roll:
(or just buy one from tesla)

mistercrash said:
If you want to ride it and not spend all your time trouble shooting, go with Leaf modules. If you don't want to ride it and prefer wrenching on it continuously and spend more money and time reworking what you built over and over again, try to build a monster battery out of little can cells.

those are a option. but it's still secondhand used cells, you are very limited in the shape of the battery you can make, something that is an issue on a bike. triying to fit those blocks inside the frame and keep the center of gravity low is basically impossible. a 18650 pack can be made to take the exact shape of the bike and go around the motor/controller and other stuff. with the leaf cells (or other pouches) you are locked into a big ass square box and reenforcement bars. the only advantage is the lower part count.

both approaches have their pros and cons. but if you have a bit of time and want to make a better driving and preforming bike then 18650's are the clear winner.
 
:shock: wow great replies guys. I could quote reply alot of you to thank you and refine my needs but ill just try and add more details in this post so you have a better idea of what i am working towards.

Definitely going with 18560's.

65mph for 50 miles is just a ballpark so that it can keep up with freeway speeds.

I Definitely understand the battery costs.

I definitely understand the battery weight.

I would ideally like two packs on the frame so i could run them seperate or together
( without exploding)


I do not understand what amps i would need for the packs or what voltage to run them at.

Lets play with this idea: stringing 6 of these packs together with the ability to run it as tank 1 tank 2 or both (i realize the fire hazard if tank one would be almost drained and if i switched to both tanks engaged because of the voltage and charge difference)

https://lunacycle.com/triangle-52v-panasonic-ga-18650-28ah-pack-giant-range-high-power/

Also are there manufacturers to tailor a charger to my specific needs of the final battery pack voltage/ wattage / quick charging / regular charging?

Thanks again this forum is awesome.
 
If you are riding on a freeway, I would seriously recommend a battery that can output at least 20kw.

This may seem a big jump from the ~6.5kw minimum I recommended earlier, but 6.5kw is the absolutely minimum to cruise in a tucked position. My upright Vectrix takes more like 8-8.5kw on the flat. If thats what you designed for, there would be zero power left for hills or to overtake.

20kw is a lot of power, and if the volts aren't sky high, the amps will be. Above 72v, controllers and the like get more expensive. So I would mark 72v as the absolute, absolute lowest voltage, but 96 or 144v would be more ideal.

I have seen a lot of cell sellers on Aliexpress say they offer battery customisation services, but building my own, I don't know if they are any good or price.
 
All a big guess on what you actually might do and since your not for sure here goes,

My figures should be pretty good in a hypothetical draft! :D

Id tell you to stick with 24s which is 88 volts nominal and 100 volts hot off the charger. Since your looking at a 20kw motor we need to see your max amp draw. At 20kw at 85% efficiency divided by your nominal voltage of 88 gives you an amp draw of 20,000 x 1.15 = 23000 / 88 = 261 amps. That motor says peak can hit 50kw which would be over 650 amps and would most probably be a lot more considering voltage sag....yowsers!

Assuming you go with the 150 Watts per mile for 50 miles that would be 7.5kw pack. 7500 divided by the 88 volts nominal of a 24s pack means you would need about 85 amps. I say we just round up to 90 amps which would mean if you went 30Q ( 3 amps cells!) you would need 30p. 30p rated at 15 amps per cell (about 5c. C rating is how many times the capacity max discharge is. In this example 5 x 3 amp = 15!) would give you a peak of only 450 amps. You could go with a VTC6 cells which claims it’s a 30 amp cell but more like 20 amps. It has a bit more capacity at 3.12 amps and would boost your peak draw to 600 amps. If you did a higher capacity cell like a GA or Tesla cell you could get about 3.5 amps but have a lower c ratings of 2 to 3 c which would drop max amp draw to Around 300 amps. You could go higher voltage to lower the amp draw but you then get into dangerous high DC voltages which could equal death or blown off/black fingers! First time around I’d stick with the lower 24s or less voltages until you know what your up against. This would be your lightest route. So you understand how many cells you would need At 24s (88 volts nominal.24 x 3.7 volts nominal for a lithium battery and 4.2 volts fully charged up 24 x 4.2 = 100.8 volts.) and 30p (30 Cell’s paralleled) that would give you a total of 720 cells!

You could go to a higher output cell such as a 25R, VTC4, or 5 that are 20 amp+ discharge but offer less capacity meaning more cells and a heavier pack. Going with the 90 amp pack you need you would need 36p of the 25R or VTC5 which would peak around 720 amps. You would need 42p of the VTC4 but this pack would peak in the 1200 amp range which would be just short of amazing but heavy.

So to sum it all up including rough weights,
30Q 24s30p 720 Cell’s peak discharge 450 amps weight about 80 lbs about $2700 in just cells
VTC6 24s30p 720 Cell’s peak discharge 600 amps weight about 80 lbs about $3400 in just cells
25R 24s36p 864 Cell’s peak discharge of 720 amps weight about 95 lbs about $2400 in just cells
VTC5 24s36p 864 Cell’s peak discharge of 720 amps weight about 95 lbs about $2900 in just cells
VTC4 24s42p 1008 Cell’s peak discharge over 1200 amps weight about 112 lbs about $2600 in just cells

Sky is the limit and Hopefully this will get you started.

Tom
 
Oh forgot to say there are many ways to get a charger that will work for you either pre built or gang up server power supplies to get to the voltage you need.

Tom
 
:? DAMN TOM MY BRAIN IS GOING TO EXPLODE.
Ok here goes nothing.... I am fine with my packs being 200 volts/300 volts with lower amps. Lets say i am designing a fancy frame for kickstarter / indiegogo because as i believe if its electric it should have a hard sci fi futuristic look to it. Help my brain one more time if you will lol. Lets cut the highway distance to 25 miles with a little more kick from higher voltage to lower battery weight and go with the idea that if someone wanted to ride this bike for short faster trips on the highway they would flip the switch to the high voltage pack and for around towning switch to a smaller 100 volt 2600 watt pack. My main hurdle here is that i am trying to stay away from making the bike look like a refrigerator on two wheels and i am shying away from the typical styling people follow to make electric bikes look just like gas bikes. It just doesnt feel right to me. My add is raging right now so if you could give me a rough estimate for the two packs that would be awesome. Most likely ill just have them made by someone else for the first prototype build to get it up and running. Thanks for your time i appreciate it[2quote=litespeed post_id=1398959 time=1532825226 user_id=16967]
All a big guess on what you actually might do and since your not for sure here goes,

My figures should be pretty good in a hypothetical draft! :D

Id tell you to stick with 24s which is 88 volts nominal and 100 volts hot off the charger. Since your looking at a 20kw motor we need to see your max amp draw. At 20kw at 85% efficiency divided by your nominal voltage of 88 gives you an amp draw of 20,000 x 1.15 = 23000 / 88 = 261 amps. That motor says peak can hit 50kw which would be over 650 amps and would most probably be a lot more considering voltage sag....yowsers!

Assuming you go with the 150 Watts per mile for 50 miles that would be 7.5kw pack. 7500 divided by the 88 volts nominal of a 24s pack means you would need about 85 amps. I say we just round up to 90 amps which would mean if you went 30Q ( 3 amps cells!) you would need 30p. 30p rated at 15 amps per cell (about 5c. C rating is how many times the capacity max discharge is. In this example 5 x 3 amp = 15!) would give you a peak of only 450 amps. You could go with a VTC6 cells which claims it’s a 30 amp cell but more like 20 amps. It has a bit more capacity at 3.12 amps and would boost your peak draw to 600 amps. If you did a higher capacity cell like a GA or Tesla cell you could get about 3.5 amps but have a lower c ratings of 2 to 3 c which would drop max amp draw to Around 300 amps. You could go higher voltage to lower the amp draw but you then get into dangerous high DC voltages which could equal death or blown off/black fingers! First time around I’d stick with the lower 24s or less voltages until you know what your up against. This would be your lightest route. So you understand how many cells you would need At 24s (88 volts nominal.24 x 3.7 volts nominal for a lithium battery and 4.2 volts fully charged up 24 x 4.2 = 100.8 volts.) and 30p (30 Cell’s paralleled) that would give you a total of 720 cells!

You could go to a higher output cell such as a 25R, VTC4, or 5 that are 20 amp+ discharge but offer less capacity meaning more cells and a heavier pack. Going with the 90 amp pack you need you would need 36p of the 25R or VTC5 which would peak around 720 amps. You would need 42p of the VTC4 but this pack would peak in the 1200 amp range which would be just short of amazing but heavy.

So to sum it all up including rough weights,
30Q 24s30p 720 Cell’s peak discharge 450 amps weight about 80 lbs about $2700 in just cells
VTC6 24s30p 720 Cell’s peak discharge 600 amps weight about 80 lbs about $3400 in just cells
25R 24s36p 864 Cell’s peak discharge of 720 amps weight about 95 lbs about $2400 in just cells
VTC5 24s36p 864 Cell’s peak discharge of 720 amps weight about 95 lbs about $2900 in just cells
VTC4 24s42p 1008 Cell’s peak discharge over 1200 amps weight about 112 lbs about $2600 in just cells

Sky is the limit and Hopefully this will get you started.

Tom
[/quote]
 
flippy said:
amberwolf said:
As long as you don't mind a thousand-cell pack, anyway. ;)

i can make you a 8500 cell battery so you can slap it under a car if you feel like it. :roll:
(or just buy one from tesla)

mistercrash said:
If you want to ride it and not spend all your time trouble shooting, go with Leaf modules. If you don't want to ride it and prefer wrenching on it continuously and spend more money and time reworking what you built over and over again, try to build a monster battery out of little can cells.

those are a option. but it's still secondhand used cells, you are very limited in the shape of the battery you can make, something that is an issue on a bike. triying to fit those blocks inside the frame and keep the center of gravity low is basically impossible. a 18650 pack can be made to take the exact shape of the bike and go around the motor/controller and other stuff. with the leaf cells (or other pouches) you are locked into a big ass square box and reenforcement bars. the only advantage is the lower part count.

both approaches have their pros and cons. but if you have a bit of time and want to make a better driving and preforming bike then 18650's are the clear winner.

The problem I found with 18650 cells is not the cans themselves, anyone can get some very decent cans, it's the products available to the DIYer to put them together to make a battery. Especially those holders sold by any merchant out there that are made of low quality plastic that dry up and start cracking within a year of daily use. When the structure of the battery starts to fail, it all goes South quickly. Unless someone has the means to build a small can battery as good as Tesla does, I don't see the point. A good battery is a lot more than just new cans. JMHO
 
Should be easy enough for me to work up all the slots for batteries into a honeycombed cad design and buy a block or sheets of abs and have everything cut out in cnc.
 
If you go that route i would design it with about 0.5mm spacing between the cells so you still have airflow. A pack that size will need some light cooling. A simple fan or 2 on the top to suck air from the bottom would be a almost-free mod to keep the battery somewhat equal in temperature.
 
timbodaciois said:
:? DAMN TOM MY BRAIN IS GOING TO EXPLODE.
Ok here goes nothing.... I am fine with my packs being 200 volts/300 volts with lower amps. Lets say i am designing a fancy frame for kickstarter / indiegogo because as i believe if its electric it should have a hard sci fi futuristic look to it. Help my brain one more time if you will lol. Lets cut the highway distance to 25 miles with a little more kick from higher voltage to lower battery weight and go with the idea that if someone wanted to ride this bike for short faster trips on the highway they would flip the switch to the high voltage pack and for around towning switch to a smaller 100 volt 2600 watt pack. My main hurdle here is that i am trying to stay away from making the bike look like a refrigerator on two wheels and i am shying away from the typical styling people follow to make electric bikes look just like gas bikes. It just doesnt feel right to me. My add is raging right now so if you could give me a rough estimate for the two packs that would be awesome. Most likely ill just have them made by someone else for the first prototype build to get it up and running. Thanks for your time i appreciate it.

The motor your wanting to use only goes up to 120 volts it says........200 to 300 volts I don’t think is doable. I’ll help you figure what ever but I don’t believe these voltages will work. https://www.goldenmotor.com/frame-bldcmotor.htm

Hmmm.....

Tom
 
https://www.goldenmotor.com/hubmotors/hubmotor-imgs/20kwBLDCmotor%20A.jpg

More specific motor details here.

Tom
 
I emailed them about it to see what a safe threshhold would be for overvolting the liquid cooled motor without burning it out. Personally 150 seems fine to me if water cooling is good.
Depending on their answer ill have to work up a lower voltage set of battery packs
 
The damage to motors from overvolting is more likely to be from bearings not being able to cope with the speed, rather than the voltage itself.
 
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