Does anyone in the Silicon Valley area have a battery spot welder I can borrow or rent?

I want to assemble a nice ebike pack using 18650 cells. It will be around 2 kwh.

I'm considering 72v made with 1s 10p modules and doing the series connection with Anderson's or RC bullet connectors.

I want to go big for range and also so that I can charge to 3.8-3.9v for better cycle life and nice easy discharge rates.

If breaking it up in to 1s packs and all of the connectors are going to cause problems, let me know. I want to go modular so it's easier to repair individual cells or fix ballance issues if I have them. It would give me nice heat shrunk triangles that I can stack and less worry of shearing off spot welds.

Thanks to anyone that can help with advice or a welder.

I am about to order my cells and nickel strip so a welding day sometime in December will be ideal.

Since I wouldn't expect you'll find help closeby, you should check a search on the subject that includes homemade and store bought under $200.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=Welder&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sr=posts&sd=d&st=0&t=0&submit=Search

Since Silicon Valley is the home of Tesla, has about 1.5 Million residents and a lot of them are tech geeks, I'm pretty sure that if there is anywhere that the type of help I'm looking for can be found, it's here.

I have stopped using the Andersons,

I use only 4mm , 5.5 mm Bullets and XT 90 with XT 30 rarely.

For space constrained areas I would go with the 5.5 mm Gold Bullets, for charging XT30 or XT90 , and for the connection from the battery pack to the controller I use an XT 90 Spark Resistant connector set.
However
I have read here on E.S. that someone who uses over a 14s battery pack says that up to 14s packs and XT 90 Spark Resistant Connectors will work
but
if using voltages over 60 you should use a different Spark Resistant Connector. I forgot at this moment , 8 mm ?

BTW, not only do we need a person in Silicon Valley that can rent out a lipo round cell welder, ...
We really need someone here to design and make a E-Bike Specific Frame
I am available for person to person input on this. Meaning I do not want to just talk about this, talk is cheap, I want to get involved in making one.

Get a a paper and start writing down what you're interested in having in the bike then draw stick picture. With you on top.
What purpose would your bike have you know all bikes are compromised.

Frame design is something I'm working on.

I have reached out to a frame fitter for advice with the purpose of long range comfort and injury prevention prioritized above pedaling efficiency and aerodynamics (because the motor is the main help with that).

I am looking at geometry to try and make a long wheelbase bike both stable and agile enough for emergency manuvers.

For strength, I'm trying to eliminate the weak spot on my previous bikes. I'm heavy enough that me plus potholes on a 32 spoke 700c 23mm rim equaled a badly flat spotted rear rim. My fronts are fine so beside stronger rims, I want to shift my CG away from the rear tire with a long tail cargo bike design.

For stiffness I have to optimize for a low step over main triangle with a long rear triangle/cargo rack while incorporating motor mounts for my mid-drive and battery mounts.

For comfort, I am using a 26" mountain bike suspension fork at the front and a Thud Buster seat post at the rear (so potholes don't flat spot my ass).

For efficiency, I'm gearing it to match my top speed to the motor maximum RPM with a Sturmey Archer IGH in top gear. I plan to use the 1:1 gear most of the time and low is a get home gear for power train failures or extra steep climbs. This is all with a 20" BMX style rear wheel.

Since I have weird body proportions, none of the design should directly translate to anyone else but I'll try to document the process so people can figure out what will work for them.

Beside the shifting priorities in the frame design, there are a lot of details related to exactly which drive system you use and with so much extra stuff strung over the bike, wire routing and hardware mounting are issues too.

I'm trying to stick with commonly available parts which is why I'm using a 26/20" wheel combo. The E-bike parts probably won't be something I find off the shelf if I have a failure but everything else I should be able to replace or substitute with parts I can find quickly. I should try to design for serviceability too so parts swaps aren't a nightmare.

Those design elements might be helpful to other people trying to make a Cycle Stoker style drivetrain with a Cyclone mid-drive motor like I am. I'm not sure much will translate to more typical mid-drive or hub motor setups but looking at the design process may help other people figure out how to design for what they want.

Oh, on spark arrestor plugs, it seems like just a current limiting resistor which will work to stop the spark but I don't really need it after that.

I'm planning to have two plugs going from the battery to the controller, an XT60 with a current limiting resistor to plug in first and equalize the voltage and an XT90 with no resistor to plug in second and provide a near zero resistance path around the resistor.