Ready to spot weld. Please check my work!

RichW_SC

10 mW
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Columbia, SC USA
This is my first battery build and I'm a little nervous. I *think* it's all setup correctly.

14s4p 30Q using .2 nickel plates with premade weld dimples. These will function as parallel and series connection (except the first and last ones where I'll just use a single strip of nickel) My welder handles these without any problem.

Just want to make sure I have all the (+) and (-) set up correctly. If I need more series connection I could solder some copper across like in the 2nd picture or just weld some more nickel. This will be for a generic 1000w rear hub bike.

Any input is appreciated...

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch
 
Rich,

Looks good to me. Like the custom nickel strips. How much amperage are you planning on pulling out of this pack?

Personally I just use round 10g copper wire for current share, yours looks better though.

Tom
 
litespeed said:
Rich,

Looks good to me. Like the custom nickel strips. How much amperage are you planning on pulling out of this pack?

Thanks, good to hear.

The controller is 30a and I'm going to be doing a lot of pedaling.

I got those nickel strips on a whim... I tested them and they are pure nickel (and everything else I've gotten from this seller). I did have to modify the standard cell holders by dremeling/filing out some of the plastic so they will lay nice and flat.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/186...665.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.66084c4dRiIXFF
 
That is one nice looking pack.

Did you try making a test weld and tearing it off?
On the site, it says it's 0.2mm thick.

This is what my welds look like on a 0.2mm Nickel strip:
https://imgur.com/a/MJek8C3
 
eee291 said:
That is one nice looking pack.

Did you try making a test weld and tearing it off?
On the site, it says it's 0.2mm thick.

This is what my welds look like on a 0.2mm Nickel strip:
https://imgur.com/a/MJek8C3

Yes, I've tested it with my welder and I get pretty much the same results as you shared. Still gonna do some experimenting with the timing. I'm guessing a little too much weld time is better than not enough.
 
For the end collectors, you could cut one of the nickel sheets in half lengthwise and solder a heavy copper (10ga) wire across it. I like to avoid soldering heavy wire directly to the cells. You could bend the sheet so the wire sits above the plane of the cell tops if that fits your enclosure better.

Otherwise looks good.
 
An update on my first battery build.

Before I welded it I soldered some copper bridges across the nickel (left a bunch of blobs because I wasn't sure where the BMS wires would come in) and added a 12g copper wire at each (+) and (-). Did all the spot welding tonight. Connected the BMS and soldered up the mains. All voltages where they should be and all the smoke stayed inside (so far).

After planning this all out I got to a point where I wasn't sure what end result I wanted for wire management so I'm just winging it and getting it built. It's been fun.

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch

And an action shot of my spot welder:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXTxTsqXgbg
 
Careful of that near short on the positive end. Might just be the angle of the photo but it looks very close. If I feel uncertain about the way wiring sits, i imagine how its going to be/look after being ridden down dirt roads and bashed around for 10000+ cycles.
I'd change that before you go any further. Yeah looking more closely at that-its dodgy.. Fix it now while it's still open :wink: :flame:
 
kdog said:
Careful of that near short on the positive end. Might just be the angle of the photo but it looks very close. If I feel uncertain about the way wiring sits, i imagine how its going to be/look after being ridden down dirt roads and bashed around for 10000+ cycles.
I'd change that before you go any further. Yeah looking more closely at that-its dodgy.. Fix it now while it's still open :wink: :flame:

Yes, thanks I will fix that.
 
999zip999 said:
Yes why is that black wire there ? Shouldn't be on the other end ? I keep rubbing my eyes and looking at it and I'm dumbfounded.

That’s actually the (+) charge wire. I didn’t have a red one. ;)
 
Aaaannnnd it works!

I just taped the battery/controller to my rear rack to test it out. I've got a hailong2 case on the way. Lots of places to mount it.

The 1000w DD motor is crazy fast... I still have mtb gearing so I can't even pedal at full throttle. Also I don't yet have a functional rear brake!!! :lol: This thing is gonna be a lot of fun.

One thing I really need is a decent display with PAS control (with the up/down remote button). All I have now is an on/off button. Full speed everytime with PAS. I want to do PAS at about level 3 and have the throttle for when I need it.

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch
 
You can use an oven to melt the solder for the copper buss bars at 380 or 400 f . A toaster oven and use a clean coat hanger to press down.
 
999zip999 said:
You can use an oven to melt the solder for the copper buss bars at 380 or 400 f . A toaster oven and use a clean coat hanger to press down.

That's cool. Mine made a huge mess but it reminded me of sweating copper plumbing... The solder just would wick underneath it then I would quickly hold it down with 2 screwdrivers. It seemed to bond really well. Sortof trial and error.
 
Is this a backpack battery ? Ha Ha you have been bite !!! Now get soon koolstop brake pads. And I got to fit a 52t front 2grear 10 sp style front gear and a wider bottom bracket like 126mm or so to clear the frame. Plus a a 7sp 11t rear spocket. you have a cut off switch with brake cutoff levers ???
Don't test your battery to the bottom . Just ride for a time first. Enjoy. Your bite .
 
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