A few minutes searching ES with posts linked to eBay turns up this information:
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- Power Cables: big red + big black
- Phase Cables: big yellow + big green + big blue
- Power-On Cable: middle red (aka 'Electric Door Lock Cable', 'ignition cable')
- Hall Cables: small red, small black, small yellow, small green, small blue
- Throttle Cables: small red + small blue + small black (aka 'Reverser' Cables)
- Speed Cables: blue(high speed)+ black + +yellow(low speed) (aka 'Shifter' Cable)
- Brake-Hi Cable: yellow (connect to 12V brake light on scooters)
- Brake-Low Cable: Brown or pair Brown & Black (tie Brown to Black (Gnd) to indicate braking)
- Anti-theft Cables:Red(Positive) + Black(power) Red(E-Start) + Blue(Motor Lock Signal) + Green(Motor Lock)
- Self-Study cable: two white cables with black plugs
- E-ABS(Optional): two blue cables matched
- Cruise(Optional): two Gray cables connecting together.
- So - hook up your power cables and tie the Power-On wire to battery (+) same as the fat red power wire. A series switch can be added to this wire to implement a kill switch (good idea) or a keylock (I like to use security system switches for this).
This should power up the controller.
- Test your throttle with the tester by hooking up the red, black, and white wires from the throttle to the tester. The third wire on the tester is the signal wire - typically blue, but NOT the red (+5V) or black (Gnd). Turn on the tester and operate the throttle. The LEDS should change color as indicated in the document referenced above ( Using the Lyen Ebike tester). This should work. On the off chance it doesn't, try the other three colored wires on the throttle in place of the white using the tester until you identify the one carrying the throttle signal. We are looking for an output signal here and there is no more than 5V in play, so these particular trial-and-error tests are harmless...
- With the controller running and the throttle wires identified, just hook them up. Assuming the white throttle wire is the proper one:
That should get things going once you do the 'self learn' stuff. The power indicators are another matter and deal with Vbatt(+) which can do Very Bad Things to your controller if connected improperly - not something you want to randomly connect to experiment. I'll leave that for you to sort out, perhaps with the assist of someone with actual knowledge of that throttle - not just guesses.
- EDIT - Also, in the absence of a 3-position switch, you may wish to jumper the blue and black wires of the 'Speed Cable' to remove any power limitations from the default medium power setting that is in play when nothing is connected. Sort of depends on controller programming, but harmless to try if you are not getting full power. These 3-position switches are really just SPDT on-off-on center-off switches if you want to rig one yourself with available parts (black to the middle wiper, blue and yellow to the end contacts for High and low respectively).