No acceleration

Bigbuddy29

100 µW
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Messages
9
Bike will not move under load. Wheel turn freely with no load. I am stumped. Check hall sensor in hub ,good check sensor in throttle good. Just chugging
 
Check brakes or disconnect brakes.
I need some basic information what bike what battery what motor what controller do you have a link to the bike is a homemade bike or a commercial bike what's the battery voltage is it fully charged
 
Wrong phase / hall combination (combo) can cause that.

Did the system work correctly and then fail?

Or has it never worked yet?
 
If the battery shuts down, its the battery that cannot handle a load, not the motor.

Otherwise, in general, its nearly always a poor contact at a plug, a damaged wire, that sort of thing. Bad contacts on the battery wire can mimic bad battery.
 
The trike is a zoome3. 36 volt 350 watt hub motor . Has new batteries. All it does is chugging, clicking, will not go with a load. Wheel spins without load. I can hold the wheel with my hand and all it does is clicks.
 
amberwolf said:
Wrong phase / hall combination (combo) can cause that.

Did the system work correctly and then fail?

Or has it never worked yet?
Yes bought it new. Worked great 6 months. It’s a trike. Name zoome3. 36 volt 350 watt hub motor. Has new batteries. I can hold the wheel with my hand all it does is clicking noise.
 
Did the problem start suddenly, or has it been going on for a while, getting worse?

Bigbuddy29 said:
It’s a trike. Name zoome3.
This one?

https://www.drivemedical.com/us/en/products/mobility/mobility-scooters/recreational-scooters/zoome-3-wheel-recreational-scooter/p/3555-1

If so, it's still under warranty:
3 Years on Main Frame, 12 Month on Electrical Harness,Controller, Motor/Gearbox, 6 Months on Batteries


It doesnt' say if that's a direct drive (DD) or geared hubmotor. If it's geared, the clutch may be broken; that would cause what you are seeing.


If not, then it could be a poor connection between motor and controller. Try unplugging each connector, one at a time, and plugging it back in, a few times. Don't unplug more than one thing at a time, so nothing can get mixed up.
 
Look also for any damage to wires, the common place for that to happen is where the wire comes out of the hub, but look also for where it might have rubbed on the tires, or anything else.

The symptoms sound like one of the three power wires, or one of the three hall sensor wires to the hub has a bad contact. Its like a three cylinder engine running on two cylinders. Then it stutters, or won't start at all. Sometimes it will start, but can't run with any power.
 
Thanks. Ok checked all connections all good. So I did some more voltage checking. The throttle red wire 5 v white wire ground, blue wire 3.7 volts. So unplugged throttle checked voltage from controller. Have 5 volts at the red wire and 5 v at blue wire. Do I have a bad throttle ?
 
Hey BigBuddy -

Need some more info to help you solve your problem.

1. What is current battery voltage? If less than 42, charge battery completely and report BOTH numbers.

2. You say you have a new battery, and also that the trike is six months old. Has the battery been replaced, if so, how long ago, and also, WHY was it replaced? If not, then that is not a new battery.

3. Now, please do not take offense, but we have a trike, with a 350 watt motor, that sounds like it might be a stripped clutch, with a user named BIG buddy. I need to know how much you weigh.

4. This is EXTREMELY important. It DID work, then came a time when it DID NOT work. Think long and hard and carefully - Did ANYTHING , anything AT ALL, unusual, remarkable, strange or different, happen IN BETWEEN those two times? Did your idiot brother in law perhaps use it and do something stupid? Did it get wet, did it get hot, did an elephant step on it, did it catch on fire?

All except the elephant have definitely been causes of the problem, which would have been solved a lot faster if the information had been presented in the first post.

5. Look carefully at the motor. Report any markings, brand names, letters, or numbers found, that may help identify the unit which can lead to likely problem solving methods. Does the motor drag when you release the throttle or spin freely? That small a motor, DD or Geared can be hard to tell.
Posting a picture might be useful.

6. On the loose connections - What frequently happens is that one or more of the pins in a multipin connector may be loose in the housing, not immediately visually obvious. You must individually check each pin for firmness in the housing. Go front to back, then back to front, STRONG light, maybe magnifying glass, another pair of eyes very helpful. Loose connection or damaged wire is a VERY common cause of similar problems, particularly in cases of crash or impact, see #4.
 
Bigbuddy29 said:
Thanks. Ok checked all connections all good. So I did some more voltage checking. The throttle red wire 5 v white wire ground, blue wire 3.7 volts. So unplugged throttle checked voltage from controller. Have 5 volts at the red wire and 5 v at blue wire. Do I have a bad throttle ?

the blue wire is the signal wire, and that voltage will change as you twist the throttle. It's a high resistance circuit, so a cheaper volt meter can mess with the number you read with it connected to the controller. it probably doesn't matter for you right now. You read something other than 5v or nothing. Both those would have been bad. Your bike's wheel spins with no load, the throttle probably isn't the issue.


Is the clicking noise like that you get when you spin a normal bike's back wheel backwards? If so, it's probably the clutch.
 
If the gears stripped or the clutch broke, it might act like that. If you turn the wheel backwards by hand (no power) you should feel the motor resistance. It should be smooth but have noticeable resistance. You could repeat this test while shorting the 3 fat phase wires to the motor and the resistance should be stronger but still smooth.
 
This is a mobility scooter, not a trike. Lead batteries. Little info on the motor but it does say No Freewheeling Mode. Which does not mean much, but I would guess no clutch.

Not sure what the full charge V is on lead, but disregard the 42 V I mentioned earlier.

Need to know current battery voltage and fully charged number, also why this is currently a NEW battery.

I will also assume there is a possible warranty voiding issue involved.
 
Tested the batteries before charge. 39.84 volts. Charged for 24 hours test 40.34.
I weigh 300 lbs. work great for 6 months. I called tech guy he said batteries are bad, so I replaced all 3. Still not working. Check al connections 3 times. Pushed and pulled each individual wire. I can hold the wheel and twist throttle, I go maybe just a 1/4 turn and it looses all power to the hub. Oh it does not have a gear hub. I am stumped.
 
OK. The rest of the unit is still under warranty. The batteries are right on the line, if date of purchase of unit is 6 months before you informed company of the problem, batteries are still covered.

Tech support told you to replace batteries, that is not it, and the real problem should be covered under warranty. I would strongly request that you be reimbursed the cost of the battery purchase.

Document with e-mail the date you have informed the company, document recommendation to replace battery. You should get fixed.

You are right on the weight limit, should not void warranty.

Triple-check all connections that you changed to replace the battery.

Also, for future reference - the information on the battery change should have been in your very first post. The information about the hub being direct drive and not geared should have been in your very first post. Direct drive means no clutch and knowing that would have kept some very sharp people from wasting their time thinking it was something it could not possibly be, meaning the clutch. Some of those people might have spent that time trying to figure out what ELSE it could be, and maybe came up with the solution. As it was, nobody did because nobody had that extra, wasted time, and THAT is because YOU did not supply vitally important information. I understand you likely just did not know. Now you do.

I want you to go back and re-read my #4 above. ANYTHING strange or unusual right before the problem manifested? (or right after the last time it worked correctly) Noises, smells, funkiness, teenage boy rode it, anything?
 
Finally I found the problem with the scooter. One of the hall sensor’s in the hub is not working. I opened the hub and found a frayed wire and a crusty hall sensor.
Now where is a good place to purchase sensor. The number on it is 41F647.
T.I.A.
 
I could not find anything on that sensor, but most likely the standard SS41 will work. To be sure, measure the hall power voltage (usually around 5v) measure the voltage on any signal wire with the sensor disconnected. Measure what's coming from the controller vs. the hall ground wire. Usually around 5v.
 
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