Help troubleshoot ebikeling waterproof motor - no worky

B

batpot

10 mW
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Messages
29
New conversion kit, and I'm getting no response whatsoever from either the throttle or the PAS. :x

Battery is putting out 40.5 volts, and it's a 36v motor. Controller is set to 36v, and it is showing battery is 100%.

I went through the settings, and made sure P10 is set to 2, which enables both throttle and PAS.
Spec sheet here:
https://electricbikereview.com/forum/attachments/1528492757374_enoeco-user-manual-cs-s830-pdf.22814/

I checked the function of the brake cut out switches, and they are normally open loop, so have just left them disconnected, although connected and disengaged made no difference.

Double checked all the connectors and they are well seated.

Tried both throttle and PAS connected to both inputs (3 pin yellow connector), and neither work at either input.

Any other ideas? Have already contacted ebikeling for a return.
 
I'd try P10 set to 1 to see if I could at least get the throttle to work without having to pedal first (eliminate PAS)...
Leave brake connections disconnected.
Try throttle on both yellow connectors, leaving PAS sensor disconnected. Hopefully verifying which is for the throttle when the motor starts.
Any vehicle status symbols showing up? Link to your kit?


Regards,
T.C.
 
I guess the link to the Eneco manual implies that he has the S830 display. This is the Ebikeling S830 manual : https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0144/7143/0208/files/Ebikeling_Lcd_S830_User_Manual.pdf?5815502100822214133 Changing P09 - Zero / Non-zero Start can cause no throttle or PAS described. It depends on P05 setting. Only 2 P05 examples are given . There are more choices than that. Also some PO 5 choices result in more PAS choices with unexpected operational results. Best practices - only change 1 choice at a time , then road test. Follow procedure- 1 power on , 2 quickly hold up and down arrows , P1 should appear , scroll up arrow P1 thru 13, and P16 while stopping to make changes along the way. Then quickly to up arrow to P1 which will be blinking. Wait for blinking to stop. Then turn display off. When you turn the display back on , the changes should have saved. Note - P11 is not described. It is for PAS sensitivity, ie number magnet/sensor pulses before motor starts.
 
^ awesome, thanks for that. They look very similar.

I found that the "walk" feature (down button for ~6 seconds) does work, so this implicates the controller.
Tried both settings of p09 and all 3 settings of p10 to no effect.

Let ebikeling know; hopefully they can just send me a new controller.
 
Waterproof connectors are known for making connection difficult. The small ones for throttle, 2 brake levers , and PAS each have two halves that plug together. Take them apart and inspect that the pins are straight , lining up with holes that they go into. When you push them together, notice that there is a line on the side of the smaller diameter plug. Keep on pushing hard untill the end of the outer sleeve reaches that line. Same goes for all of your connectors. Should be arrows to line up too.
 
E-HP said:
Did you check that you have 5v from the positive pins of the PAS and throttle connectors coming out of the controller?
Click to expand...

Nope, had no idea. but I have a new controller on the way. I'll play with it.

aroundqube said:
Waterproof connectors are known for making connection difficult. The small ones for throttle, 2 brake levers , and PAS each have two halves that plug together. Take them apart and inspect that the pins are straight , lining up with holes that they go into. When you push them together, notice that there is a line on the side of the smaller diameter plug. Keep on pushing hard untill the end of the outer sleeve reaches that line. Same goes for all of your connectors. Should be arrows to line up too.
Click to expand...
Yup, no bent pins, and fully seated to the line.
 
E-HP said:
Did you check that you have 5v from the positive pins of the PAS and throttle connectors coming out of the controller?
Click to expand...

Tested it tonight.
In this image for reference, Pin 1 is furthest left, 3 furthest right:
s-l300.jpg


PAS connector puts out 5 volts from pin 1 to 3, and 1 to 2.

Throttle connector puts out 4.3v 1 to 2, and 0.7v 1 to 3.

What should it be?
 
Known to work on 40V : P1=2 , P2=1 , P3 =36 , P4= 0 , P5= 0-05 , P6 = 26 , P7= 86 , P8= 31 , P9= 0 , P10=2 , P11 = 1 , P12= 1, P13 = number of PAS magnets on PAS disc . Also works on 52V by changing P3 = 48 . Edit , this info is for the Ebikeling LCD S830 display that comes with the waterproof 500 W geared motor kit. There is another option for the display for this kit.
 
New controller putting out 4.75 volts, and throttle works!
Haven't tested the PAS yet.
Learned that the throttle is also limited by the PAS level; 0 = no throttle.

What does it mean when the battery capacity goes down to say 25%, then "regenerates" back to 85 % after stopping for a minute or so?
 
batpot said:
New controller putting out 4.75 volts, and throttle works!
Haven't tested the PAS yet.
Learned that the throttle is also limited by the PAS level; 0 = no throttle.

What does it mean when the battery capacity goes down to say 25%, then "regenerates" back to 85 % after stopping for a minute or so?
Click to expand...

Did you enter the battery voltage into the LCD settings? Was the battery fully charged, and what kind of battery is it?

If the voltage is correct, and battery freshly charged, that behavior suggests the battery was too small, or is old, or generally not the right pack for the motor. What kind of battery is it?
 
batpot said:
Learned that the throttle is also limited by the PAS level;
Click to expand...

For the LCD3 display there are a couple of settings. One keeps the throttle active when PAS is 0. Another let’s you choose whether the throttle has access to full power regardless of PAS level, or varying the maximum throttle power with the PAS level.

Perhaps your new display has similar options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I recently bought an ebikeling waterproof set up with the 36v/48v controller and the 500w/36v Bafang hub motor. It simply would not work at all with a 36v battery (tested at 40v). The display showed one led of power but the motor did not respond at all to the throttle. When I plugged in my 52v Ego battery it worked fine, showed 4 led's of power. However, top speed for whatever reason is 15-20mph even down hill.

I wrote ebikeling to ask them why it doesn't work on 36v and goes so slow on 52v. The long weekend no doubt is delaying their response.
 
If you picked the LCD S830 here are some parameters that would cause that to happen. P3 should be 36 , P8 should be set in kph to the desired limit. 50 should in effect be no speed limit ( at 50 on 52V and 26 " wheel WOT was 30 mph on display ), although I received info from Ebikeling to choose 100 for no limit. Overdo is real time GPS verification .
 
Stu Summer said:
I recently bought an ebikeling waterproof set up with the 36v/48v controller and the 500w/36v Bafang hub motor. It simply would not work at all with a 36v battery (tested at 40v). The display showed one led of power but the motor did not respond at all to the throttle. When I plugged in my 52v Ego battery it worked fine, showed 4 led's of power. However, top speed for whatever reason is 15-20mph even down hill.

I wrote ebikeling to ask them why it doesn't work on 36v and goes so slow on 52v. The long weekend no doubt is delaying their response.
Click to expand...

had the same problem.
see link posted above:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0144/7143/0208/files/Ebikeling_Lcd_S830_User_Manual.pdf?5815502100822214133
setting 2.
 
E-HP said:
batpot said:
Learned that the throttle is also limited by the PAS level;
Click to expand...

For the LCD3 display there are a couple of settings. One keeps the throttle active when PAS is 0. Another let’s you choose whether the throttle has access to full power regardless of PAS level, or varying the maximum throttle power with the PAS level.

Perhaps your new display has similar options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

would love that...
 
docw009 said:
...that behavior suggests the battery was too small, or is old, or generally not the right pack for the motor...
Click to expand...

...or is filled with garbage cells straight out of the factory.
 
HK12K said:
docw009 said:
batpot said:
What does it mean when the battery capacity goes down to say 25%, then "regenerates" back to 85 % after stopping for a minute or so?
Click to expand...

...that behavior suggests the battery was too small, or is old, or generally not the right pack for the motor...
Click to expand...

...or is filled with garbage cells straight out of the factory.
Click to expand...

Quite possible. First build, and I have no idea what to expect.
However, it generally only occurs at very high load, going uphill, with a trailer. Probably close to 300 pounds total.
Another forum indicated that is normal behavior for a high load like that.

So, could be the battery, could be normal under high load, could be my shitty welds on the battery connection to the controller.
I haven't ruled out the welds yet.
 
batpot said:
HK12K said:
docw009 said:
batpot said:
What does it mean when the battery capacity goes down to say 25%, then "regenerates" back to 85 % after stopping for a minute or so?
Click to expand...

...that behavior suggests the battery was too small, or is old, or generally not the right pack for the motor...
Click to expand...

...or is filled with garbage cells straight out of the factory.
Click to expand...

Quite possible. First build, and I have no idea what to expect.
However, it generally only occurs at very high load, going uphill, with a trailer. Probably close to 300 pounds total.
Another forum indicated that is normal behavior for a high load like that.

So, could be the battery, could be normal under high load, could be my shitty welds on the battery connection to the controller.
I haven't ruled out the welds yet.
Click to expand...

Hills and heavy weights will be when the battery is working it's hardest, so even one cell that's not up to snuff can ruin the fun when the bms steps in. From what you're describing it doesn't sound like a wire connection issue unless it happens to be internal to the pack.

I'd ensure the pack is perfectly balanced first. If it's still an issue after that I'd want to thoroughly examine it to determine if there are any bad cells inside and replace them if there are. If no bad cells present themselves the pack is simply undersized and will require more cells in parallel to perform as desired.

My biggest fear and the very possible reality could be that you got burned with a pack full of no name/counterfeit/reject cells from China.
 
HK12K said:
Hills and heavy weights will be when the battery is working it's hardest, so even one cell that's not up to snuff can ruin the fun when the bms steps in. From what you're describing it doesn't sound like a wire connection issue unless it happens to be internal to the pack.

I'd ensure the pack is perfectly balanced first. If it's still an issue after that I'd want to thoroughly examine it to determine if there are any bad cells inside and replace them if there are. If no bad cells present themselves the pack is simply undersized and will require more cells in parallel to perform as desired.

My biggest fear and the very possible reality could be that you got burned with a pack full of no name/counterfeit/reject cells from China.
Click to expand...

thanks.
How do I go about checking the balance? Does that require tearing the pack apart?
 
Do you have access to any balance leads, or just the discharge cables? If you have access to any balance wires you can use them to do some tests, otherwise the pack will need to be unwrapped.
 
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