Batec speed controller?

[E-HP]

Pictured below, here is another Batec Electric Series #1 model which happens to also have been downgraded to the Australian standard 10km/h maximum speed limit!!!
This this particular model was originally advertised as traveling a maximum 20km/h European speed limit prior to then being shipped to Australia!!! Despite this, do you see any other alternative way of resetting the maximum speed limit (within the picture) back to the original European speed settings even though this this particular model doesn’t have the 3x copper knobs available to turn clockwise, or would I still need to provide even more pictures to hopefully analyse, fingers crossed!?
Thanks!
Steve

looking at some diagrams from online manuals https://www.49bespoke.com/images/suppor ... NGLISH.pdf

It looks like the speed controller is located on the other side of your photo, the small box in your pic with what looks like a red logo on the side.

[Teebie]

Fingers crossed, here’s what could hopefully be the Batec Electric Series #1 speed module controller/circuitboard (located within the small compartment box) that can still be altered without any copper knobs to turn...

[Teebie]

Luckily, I also have the Batec "RapidEdition" Series #1 (KawasakiGreen) available which is still capable of speeds up to 30km/h, but I may have to now consider upgrading this base model version with the following 20" wheel conversion kit capable of speeds up to 65km/h...

[amberwolf]

The three places that speed controls would be setup would be in either the display/controller's setup screens (if it has any; they may be passworded or "secret menu") or the controller's internal programming (typically accessible only with the manufacturer software), or in the intermediate electronics between the throttle/PAS device(s) and the controller's actual throttle input.

Since the settings / programming are probably not accessible to you, my recommendation would be to trace the wiring out from the throttle/etc all the way to the motor controller board, and draw it out on paper if it's not a direct connection. This will help you find any parts between them that might be used to do speed limiting. If there arent' any, then it's likely you'd have to replace the controller/display unit to get a faster speed.

The motor itself is probably perfectly capable of doing what you want, if it would have done so with the non-australian-limit in place.

[slow&furious]

Hi!
I came here looking for way to totally unlock Batec Electric 1 speed limitation but i see that I have more information then posted here.
So, in batec electric 1 you need to take of the plastic cover - red

Inked1608285193864_LI.jpg (3.18 MiB) Viewed 251 times

Then you can see 4 switches in the center - those are speed limiters.

1608285193838.jpg (3.81 MiB) Viewed 251 times

Up to 6km/h - 1up, 2,3,4 down
Up to 10km/h - 2up, 1,3,4 down
Up to 18km/h - 3 up, 1,2,4 down
Up to 20km/h - 4 up, 1,2,3 down

I hope that someone will find a way to take of the 20km/h speed limit - its still to slow form me, or I will change this driver into another, from electric bike, without limitations.
Greetings from cold Poland!
Drive safe

[SlowCo]

Up to 6km/h - 1up, 2,3,4 down
Up to 10km/h - 2up, 1,3,4 down
Up to 18km/h - 3 up, 1,2,4 down
Up to 20km/h - 4 up, 1,2,3 down

Great username

Are there no other combinations that affect the speed like:

1 and 2 up, 3 and 4 down
3 and 4 up, 1 and 2 down
1 and 3 up, 2 and 4 down
2 and 4 up, 1 and 3 down
all up
all down

[slow&furious]

Up to 6km/h - 1up, 2,3,4 down
Up to 10km/h - 2up, 1,3,4 down
Up to 18km/h - 3 up, 1,2,4 down
Up to 20km/h - 4 up, 1,2,3 down

Great username

Are there no other combinations that affect the speed like:

1 and 2 up, 3 and 4 down
3 and 4 up, 1 and 2 down
1 and 3 up, 2 and 4 down
2 and 4 up, 1 and 3 down
all up
all down

Unfortunately no, i tried different combinations without success.
Username inspired by Batec Electric #1

[SlowCo]

Pictured below, here is another Batec Electric Series #1 model which happens to also have been downgraded to the Australian standard 10km/h maximum speed limit!!!
This this particular model was originally advertised as traveling a maximum 20km/h European speed limit prior to then being shipped to Australia!!! Despite this, do you see any other alternative way of resetting the maximum speed limit (within the picture) back to the original European speed settings even though this this particular model doesn’t have the 3x copper knobs available to turn clockwise, or would I still need to provide even more pictures to hopefully analyse, fingers crossed!?
Thanks!
Steve

@Teebie: look at the solution above from slow&furious to get the maximum speed of 20km/h by setting the switch under the black shrink wrap to 4 up and 1 to 3 down.
That maximum speed could be programmed in with a maximum rpm of the motor in combination with the size of the wheel and tire.

My first thought would be to contact Batec and kindly ask them if its possible to program the controller to get rid of the restriction for "off road use"...
They might be helpful (but probably not )

[slow&furious]

[/quote]
My first thought would be to contact Batec and kindly ask them if its possible to program the controller to get rid of the restriction for "off road use"...
They might be helpful (but probably not )
[/quote]

It's not a good business for them to release such information because they are selling Rapid for extra money, and this one is going 30km/h

[Teebie]

Onceagain, it seems the Batec 2015 speed limiter doesn’t have any codes to switch, or knobs to turn...

[Teebie]

Pictured below, the speed limiter on the "RapidEdition" 2015 also seems to have the exact the same colourarrangements going into the exact same plugs!!!

[Teebie]

Maybe, in the early day’s the company originally had so many complaints from clients worldwide wanting to change the speed back to the original settings that they then gave their customers the opportunity to revert the situation (with the flick of some switches, or the turn of some knobs) on their own...

[amberwolf]

It's pretty unlikely that they would do it for their customers, especially since they sell faster models, and have negative motivation for losing money by selling customer-adjustable lower-speed models that are otherwise functionally the same as the higher-speed models. Aside from their accountants, they probably also have lawyers that would object to this, as well.

It is much more likely that they originally used controllers programmed by the controller manufacturer (which is almost certainly not Batec) for each different model. So they'd have to keep around a bunch of different models of controller, and ensure they don't get mixed up during build of the various Batec units.

Or they used programmable controllers, that then had to be individually setup for each model, with the risk of bricking the controller if anything goes wrong during the process, every time this is done.

Then they decided to use switches (taht probably simply ground or let float a few signal lines to the controller's MCU, in the same manner as a common 3-speed controller) to make it simple for the Batec factory workers to "instantly" setup each unit, choosing from a list of preset speeds, and to easily convert any unit to any other speed version if the need arose.

At some point the 3-pot design came up, probably to make each of the three speeds completley adjustable, to make it easier to satisfy changes in local laws for wherever they sell these. There is probably a chart that shows what "o'clock" position to put each one at for what speed, and then a simple offground spinup of hte motor to verify it's set right, with any fine adjustments able to be done then. A bit more complicated than the switches, but more versatile, and probably a lot easier and less error prone for the average factory worker to setup than hooking up a programming cable and using probably-glitchy software with poorly-designed menus and whatnot.


Just speculation...but based on evolution I've seen of actual products that I do know some details about.

[Teebie]

So, does this unfortunately only mean I’d have to still acquire 1x 2015 Speed controller (RapidEdition) which hasn’t been reprogrammed for the OZmarket to gain anymorespeed???

[amberwolf]

That depends on the results of the wiring/signal tests I suggested before; if you find anything between throttle and controller MCU then you can trace that out and post it here, and we can see if anything might be safely alterable. If the display/etc unit is between throttle and controller, you should do a voltage test at various throttle amounts (wheel off ground) and each of the "speed" settings, to see if the throttle signal is being modified by the display/etc unit before it gets to the controller. If it is, then that's what would need to be modified or replaced.


If you do have to get the "rapid" version controller, you may have to also get the other matching electronics for anything that is different between that and what you have.

[Teebie]

Pictured above, it seems the throttle wires travel directly straight into the speedlimiter board C5 pins (white/red/black) before then getting lost travelling to the speed controller box (then motor, etc.), or could the throttle wires (white/red/black) still possibly be the same colour arrangement within in the following speed controller/boxpicture???

[Teebie]

Despite this, hopefully someone else out there with an older 2015 ElectricSeries #1 can successfully pickup where I left off (since I unfortunately don’t have any equipment, or know how to go anyfurther), or even post their successful Series #1 &/or #2 upgrade to the eBike conversion kits, which I might have to now seriously consider...

[amberwolf]

If you don't have a multimeter, I'd highly recommend getting one. Even just the cheapest multimeter (DMM) available at your local "harbor freight" equivalent store is pretty useful for testing and troubleshooting ebikes. Around here they can be had for less than $5 - $10 USD, typically. They're not great at that price, but they'll generally do what you need to with this sort of thing; I have several of that type that i use for anything that doesnt' really need precision (if I screw up somehow and damage it, they're actually cheaper than just a fuse for my really good DMM). $50 USD gets a pretty decent multimeter, and $100USD gets a nice one...but you will probalby never need anything that fancy.


As examples, this one
https://www.harborfreight.com/11-functi ... 61593.html
is $23 USD and has some features that make it more useful than this one (but not features you *need* for basic testing):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-functio ... 63759.html
which is only $4 USD (and is just like half a dozen of them I have around here, that do all the basic stuff for testing ebike things, but sometimes take a bit more creative setup to use for certain things).
This one
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-101-Multim ... B00HE6MIJY
doesnt' have much more in features (less, really) than the first one above, but it's a much better meter if you needed accuracy, durability/reliability, etc.
This one has some more stuff, but costs more than twice as much
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-107-Curren ... =hi&sr=1-9

Some cheap under $5 Amazon meters (that I know nothing about):
https://www.amazon.com/Ranging-Digital- ... B08CN7J9M5
https://www.amazon.com/Kaczmarek-Multim ... B08R9V5CYY


My "best" DMM I use for general electronics stuff is the couple-decades older version (77-IIIA) of this
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-77-IV-Digi ... B000U8WQ4U
but it's definitely overkill for simple ebike troubleshooting. However, it and a two much older Flukes, 8020A (handheld) and 8000A (bench) IIRC, (from the late 1970s?) still work despite being dropped, banged around, accidentally launched across a room (and a yard) by tripping over test leads, etc., many times over the decades. Can't say that about any of the HF meters I've had. (of which I have a few that are saved for parts to fix others if I ever need to).

[Teebie]

Pictured below, I’ve since discovered (without still having yet tested the multimeter with the throttle!!!) the Batec "Electric" Series #1 (2015) SpeedLimiterboard (21540010/A) C6/C7 pins (located on the right) are flipped upside down in comparison with the Batec "RapidEdition" Series #1 (2015) C6/C7 pins (located on the left)!!!

[Teebie]

Hopefully, could this just possibly involve swapping all the Batec "Electric" Series #1 (2015) C6/C7 pins to resemble the exact same colour order (from left to right) of the existing Batec "RapidEdition" Series #1 (2015) C6/C7 pins???

Batec "Electric" Series #1 2015 (from left to right):
C6 pins - Brown, Green, White, Blue, Black, Red
C7 pins - Yellow, Green, White, Blue, Black, Red
Batec "RapidEdition" Series #1 2015 (from left to right):
C6 pins - Red, Black, Blue, White, Green, Brown
C7 pins - Red, Black, Blue, White, Green, Yellow

[amberwolf]

Won't change anything, because they're still mating wiht the same wires on the ohter connector, which you presumably would also be changing the order of.

If you look at the back of that board, you'll almost certaijnly see that the traces from one connector go directly to the same pin on the other.

The only reason the wire order appears to be different (it's not) is that the connectors are installed upside down (probably a manufacturing mistake) on the one board vs the other.

[Jordan94]

Hey guys,

I have a Batec electric 2 and am in the process of attempting to remove the speed limiter via the blue potentiometer labelled H however I am having great difficulty.

The potentiometer seems to rotate infinitely in either direction with no end stop position and no effect on the top speed either way.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

[amberwolf]

Is the system set to use the highest speed mode? If not, the H one won't affect it--each one affects just the mode it is labelled for, as far as I can tell from previous info.

Also, if the pot never stops and you dont' even feel a slight "bump" when turning it in either direction, it is possible that it is broken. There is a worm gear on the brass screw that turns a (plastic) geared pot inside, and if it's turned too far it could strip the gear teeth on the pot itself, preventing any further adjustment. So if it has ever been turned too far at any point, say in the slow direction of adjustment, it might not be possible to adjust it in the fast direction anymore.

Inside-multiturn-trimpot-with-worm-drive.jpg (52.63 KiB) Viewed 46 times

You can test to see if it is just this pot or if it is a systemwide problem by setting the system to use the middle speed mode, then slowly and gently adjusting the M pot, to see if that changes the limit for that mode. If it does not, then there may be a different firmware in your unit from the one that this adjustment did work on, that ignores those pots (except possibly when in some sort of factory calibration/setup mode that you won't have access to).

If the adjustment does work on the L and M modes but not H, you might ahve to replace the H mode pot to fix that.