Ebike battery question

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Rlwings

1 mW
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I'm Just looking to determine the exact configuration of this battery pack for an ebike.

This pack consists of two separate packs wired together. I have attached several photos of the pack, battery cells, and the BMS.

Can anyone figure it out? - I need to know the (P) parallel and (S) series numbers as well as the total voltage and Ah's.

Thank you very much for any information you can provide. :)

Greatly appreciated,
Randy

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It's 13S / 10P

13 cells in series is called 48V, the capacity in amp-hours is determined by the capacity of each cell times 10 cells. Common cheap cells sometimes have 2200-mAh, so 10 of those would be 22-Amp-hours
 
spinningmagnets said:
It's 13S / 10P

13 cells in series is called 48V, the capacity in amp-hours is determined by the capacity of each cell times 10 cells. Common cheap cells sometimes have 2200-mAh, so 10 of those would be 22-Amp-hours
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for your reply and time! ... I just found the original seller and he says that it's a 48V 30Ah pack... Is it possible that it's an 11P pack and not a 10P? ... The cells are Samsung INR18650 29E - 2900mah. (See photo) in last post.

What do you think? - I'm trying to input the correct numbers into my new Grin 'Cycle Satiator' charger. - Thanks!
 
Rlwings said:
spinningmagnets said:
It's 13S / 10P

13 cells in series is called 48V, the capacity in amp-hours is determined by the capacity of each cell times 10 cells. Common cheap cells sometimes have 2200-mAh, so 10 of those would be 22-Amp-hours
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for your reply and time! ... I just found the original seller and he says that it's a 48V 30Ah pack... Is it possible that it's an 11P pack and not a 10P? ... The cells are Samsung INR18650 29E - 2900mah. (See photo) in last post.

What do you think? - I'm trying to input the correct numbers into my new Grin 'Cycle Satiator' charger. - Thanks!
Click to expand...

I think you can just count to 130 or 143 and have your answer.
 
E-HP said:
Rlwings said:
spinningmagnets said:
It's 13S / 10P

13 cells in series is called 48V, the capacity in amp-hours is determined by the capacity of each cell times 10 cells. Common cheap cells sometimes have 2200-mAh, so 10 of those would be 22-Amp-hours
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for your reply and time! ... I just found the original seller and he says that it's a 48V 30Ah pack... Is it possible that it's an 11P pack and not a 10P? ... The cells are Samsung INR18650 29E - 2900mah. (See photo) in last post.

What do you think? - I'm trying to input the correct numbers into my new Grin 'Cycle Satiator' charger. - Thanks!
Click to expand...

I think you can just count to 130 or 143 and have your answer.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I'm kinda a noob at this... So if I multiply 130 times 2900 I get 30.7Ahr - Is this correct or am I multiplying the wrong numbers?
 
spinningmagnets said:
There are ten cells per paralleled group, so 10 X 2900mAh = 29-Ah
Click to expand...

Wow, ok, thanks! So you are sure that it is a 29Ah pack? ... So are they allowed to market it as a 30Ah pack if it is really only a 29Ah pack?
 
E-HP said:
Rlwings said:
Is it possible that it's an 11P pack and not a 10P?
Click to expand...


13S 10P: 13x10 = 130 cells
13S 11P: 13x11 = 143 cells
Click to expand...

Thanks for the math. It's just I don't know how to look at my photos properly. I was told that it is a 30Ah pack. But now, if I understand correctly, it's supposedly a 29Ah pack... Confused.
 
Hello. I'm Just looking to determine the exact configuration of this battery pack for an ebike.

This pack consists of two separate packs wired together. I have attached several photos of the pack, battery cells, and the BMS.

Can anyone figure it out? - I need to know the (P) parallel and (S) series numbers as well as the total voltage and Ah's.

Thank you very much for any information you can provide. :)

Greatly appreciated,
Randy

20200816_145557.jpg20200816_145557.jpg20200816_143428.jpg20200816_145436.jpg20200816_145615.jpg20200816_145623.jpg
 
the bms is 13s, looks like 13s10p? of samsung 29E. be nice to have a pic of the other side of big battery to see serial connections

48v/28.5ah

https://www.18650batterystore.com/Samsung-18650-Battery-p/samsung-29e.htm
 
goatman said:
the bms is 13s, looks like 13s10p? of samsung 29E. be nice to have a pic of the other side of big battery to see serial connections

48v/28.5ah

https://www.18650batterystore.com/Samsung-18650-Battery-p/samsung-29e.htm
Click to expand...
Hey goatman, thank you so much for that information! - Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the other side of the larger pack to show you. Since I have no idea what I'm doing I didn't know I needed to show both sides. And I have since closed the pack back up.

The seller claims that it's a 48V30Ah pack, so I guess your 48V28.5Ah is the truth on the inside... If you are sure this correct (without seeing the 'other side') I will go ahead and input your numbers into my brand new 'Cycle Sataitor' battery charger.... Do you think I am safe?

Thanks so much for any detail you can provide. Really appreciate it as I just want to do the right thing. :)
 
safe, i dont know, i didnt build it. its not like your pulling big amps. should be fine
 
Hillhater said:
I second the 13s, 10p suggestion.
Check the voltage on the main terminals, it should be 40-54v , depending on the state of charge
Suggest max charge voltage of 53 to 54 volts.
Click to expand...

Thanks Hillhater! The more confirmation I can get the better. :)

The pack reads 54.6V on the charger and on the ebike voltmeter... Beyond that I have no idea what I'm doing, lol... Kinda new at this... Just looking for the correct numbers to input here:

https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/charge-simulator.html?ver=48&bat=cust_c16_s13_p10_l30&pct=100&amps=4

My goal is to charge to 70-80% - Your suggestion of 53-54 volts is closer to 90%, but I want to make this pack last as long as possible since I don't need the daily capacity of 90%.

Thanks for any further input or questions.

Randy
 
goatman said:
safe, i dont know, i didnt build it. its not like your pulling big amps. should be fine
Click to expand...

Thanks goatman! - Yeah, by 'safe' I meant can we be sure it's a 48V28.5Ah pack without seeing the other side of the pack as you mentioned?
 
Rlwings said:
I was told that it is a 30Ah pack.
Click to expand...
Who told you?

Rlwings said:
But now, if I understand correctly, it's supposedly a 29Ah pack... Confused.
Click to expand...
Didn't you state earlier they were 2900mAh cells? Spinningmagnets explained the math for calculating the Ah of your 10P pack, so yours is 10 x 2900mAh = 29000mAh, or 29Ah
 
99t4 said:
Rlwings said:
I was told that it is a 30Ah pack.
Click to expand...
Who told you?

Rlwings said:
But now, if I understand correctly, it's supposedly a 29Ah pack... Confused.
Click to expand...
Didn't you state earlier they were 2900mAh cells? Spinningmagnets explained the math for calculating the Ah of your 10P pack, so yours is 10 x 2900mAh = 29000mAh, or 29Ah
Click to expand...

Sorry, I should have said It was the seller who claimed it is a 30Ah pack... But I finally figured out that Samsung 29E batteries are actually 2850mAh... So the pack if finally determined to be a 48V\28.5Ah

I think the seller should reimburse me for the missing 1.5Ah, lol
 
The "max capacity" of a cell is measured at a very low amp-draw, usually 1/2 an amp until it reaches low voltage cutoff LVC. If you draw 10A on cruise and 30A as a temporary peak, you will get less amp-hours out of the pack.

Let's say we are going to call this a 28-Ah pack, just for the sake of argument. If there are ten cells in parallel, a 10-amp draw from the motor will only pull one-amp from each cell. Also, the cells will run cool, which helps maximum range and also pack life in years.

If this was a tiny 3P pack, 10A draw would be 3.3A per cell, so you'd get less Ah per cell, and they'd run warmer.

An efficient mid drive that is operated properly should get a mile and a half per Amp-hour, so a big 28-Ah pack might get as much as 42 miles...

Welcome to Chinese advertising...
 
spinningmagnets said:
The "max capacity" of a cell is measured at a very low amp-draw, usually 1/2 an amp until it reaches low voltage cutoff LVC. If you draw 10A on cruise and 30A as a temporary peak, you will get less amp-hours out of the pack.

Let's say we are going to call this a 28-Ah pack, just for the sake of argument. If there are ten cells in parallel, a 10-amp draw from the motor will only pull one-amp from each cell. Also, the cells will run cool, which helps maximum range and also pack life in years.

If this was a tiny 3P pack, 10A draw would be 3.3A per cell, so you'd get less Ah per cell, and they'd run warmer.

An efficient mid drive that is operated properly should get a mile and a half per Amp-hour, so a big 28-Ah pack might get as much as 42 miles...

Welcome to Chinese advertising...
Click to expand...
Very interesting! Thank you for the battery education. I am always open to learning :) ... My ebike has a 350w continuous motor and the bike weighs 55kg, and I weigh 180lbs. It also uses a very efficient controller with a dynamic acceleration curve. (Acceleration and top speed is controlled based on the remaining voltage). The manufacturer claims 80-100Km range under 'perfect' conditions. Using the 30Ah pack option. (28.5Ah). Seems a little optimistic, but I guess that is to be expected from marketing. :)
 
After a couple cycles to break-in the battery, charge it up to full and take it on a known route until it dies. You can even circle the block that your home is on for the last half, so you dont have to walk far.

Ride in the street, and then you can track the miles by copying that route in a car with its odometer.

As an example, ride ten miles out, turn around, ride ten miles back, then circle the block until it stops.

Labels dont matter, all that matters is your ebike with your battery, ridden by you.
 
spinningmagnets said:
After a couple cycles to break-in the battery, charge it up to full and take it on a known route until it dies. You can even circle the block that your home is on for the last half, so you dont have to walk far.

Ride in the street, and then you can track the miles by copying that route in a car with its odometer.

As an example, ride ten miles out, turn around, ride ten miles back, then circle the block until it stops.

Labels dont matter, all that matters is your ebike with your battery, ridden by you.
Click to expand...

Thanks, yes I will try that. My bike digitally counts the Km, and shows voltage.
 
Rlwings said:
I think the seller should reimburse me for the missing 1.5Ah, lol
Click to expand...
Couldn't hurt to try. At least, you could leave that info in a review comment on their site, maybe it will educate a future prospective buyer.
 
99t4 said:
Rlwings said:
I think the seller should reimburse me for the missing 1.5Ah, lol
Click to expand...
Couldn't hurt to try. At least, you could leave that info in a review comment on their site, maybe it will educate a future prospective buyer.
Click to expand...

Agreed thanks! - I'm not sure if it is common practice (legal) to overstate the capacity when the count is so close. 28.5 vs 30... Most normal people would never notice the difference anyway, Lol :)
 
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