can this hub take 52v?
- Thread starter maiz
- Start date
Chalo
100 TW
maiz said:
It will run on 52V, but it is load-RPM matched for 36V. 52V will try to turn it 40% faster, but there won't be enough power to go 40% faster, so it will lug deeper into a lower efficiency range. Because its ability to shed heat is limited, it's not a good idea to use power greatly in excess of its rating. I've run it at 22A, and it seems to work okay at that level.
Maximum torque of that motor is very acceptable, but it's not as much as Ezee. The wheel came off a dockless rental e-bike, and that's what it's optimized for-- low power PAS operation in a non-challenging riding environment.
999zip999
100 TW
The motor doesn't know volts it knows watts. What controller are you using ? It a controller issue. And amps to much are melt. So it can take 1,200 watts maybe or so. Depends on your weight and steepness of Hill and length of Hill.
motomech
10 MW
I run 52 Volts thru a mini geared motor smaller than that one.
It's a standard wind (D10) or a "mid-speed" rating (260RPM @ 36 V), so in a 26" whl. on 52 Volts, the top speed should be about 24 to 25 MPH (2 MPH faster than on 48 Volts). That's about as fast as a single mini can do without starting to melt the phase wires and it will feel plenty fast.
Controller should be between 20 and 25 Amp rating.
It will climb decent, but it's still a mini. If the climbing speed falls below 12 MPH, it's time to jump off and push.
I assume it's used, because that's a ganga deal, the Schwalbe tire new is $30 by itself.
It's a standard wind (D10) or a "mid-speed" rating (260RPM @ 36 V), so in a 26" whl. on 52 Volts, the top speed should be about 24 to 25 MPH (2 MPH faster than on 48 Volts). That's about as fast as a single mini can do without starting to melt the phase wires and it will feel plenty fast.
Controller should be between 20 and 25 Amp rating.
It will climb decent, but it's still a mini. If the climbing speed falls below 12 MPH, it's time to jump off and push.
I assume it's used, because that's a ganga deal, the Schwalbe tire new is $30 by itself.
thank you all for replying. I was planning on an ezee on a 26" from through grin, along with a phaserunner and an em3ev 52v 30q battery. this deal makes me consider swapping the ezee for this bafang to test the waters (this would be my 1st build). I live in the bay area and imagined this being my grocery getter and a way to get me out of my car for small errands even if they are farther out. no serious hills but the occasional shortcut might require it. I want to pedal, so won't be on the throttle heavy, don't need much speed over 22mph, I like side streets vs main streets. I am a big dude and groceries can add up in weight quickly so that was my main concern.
I imagine the temp detector in the ezee is important, and that I would need to ensure wiring compatibility between the phaserunner and this bafang. it's such a tempting deal, but may not meet my needs.
I imagine the temp detector in the ezee is important, and that I would need to ensure wiring compatibility between the phaserunner and this bafang. it's such a tempting deal, but may not meet my needs.
motomech
10 MW
I've had several different mini's and a couple of Ezee's and the first thing is, I wouldn't put a 5 Kg.s hub motor on the frt. Too much weight swinging around on the fork. The Bafang is 3 plus, and that's about as much as I like to use up frt. Also, the Bafang on 52 V's and even a 20 Amp controller, gets to the point where the frt. tire will break loose on occasion. That can be fun, depends.
I never have used a Phaserunner, but I'm not sure if I would use a $300 controller on a $60 motor. If you go that route. why not go cheap on the first build (you WILL do more) and see what you like before spending the big bucks? Put the $$ in the batt., it's goes from bike to bike.
As far as budget controllers go, you can go two directions. A sine-wave/diplay w/ 5 "imitation" torque settings is soft -start, has a nice PAS and lot's of stuff to play with for the Techie inclined. But they are weak, not sure if there is anything new, but most of them are a soft 17 Amps. Not too many choices in the 20 to 25 A range. I run a genaric 17A square-wave on my Q100, but it's only a 2 Kg. motor.
Personally, if I lived where you do, I'd run a little, old skol, hot-rod 25 Amp 6-FET Infineon. Ebike CA is out of stk. and Cellman no longer sells them, maybe have Lyen custom program one(set the LVC for what ever pack Voltage you end up with). He has some cool add-ons too.
http://www.lyen.com/
The PAS is a little crude on these older designs, but 3 speed is good enough w/ a 22 MPH top,speed (BTW, you only need 48 Volts to get that).
It might sound counter intuitive to run a stout controller for climbing hills, but think about it this way. The longer you maintain mnomentum, the farther you can get before falling down to that dreaded "half of the no-load top speed", where the motor starts to make more heat than forward motion. Never "lug" a hub motor.
Speaking of hills, if they are only "blocks" long and you can get a good run on it, this set-up will climb really steep hills. It's the long grinds on a hot day that will cause prob.s. And even then, it's more likely going to be melted wires, connectors or controller before the motor melts nthe windings (but I've done it, @ 68 Volts!).
Not sure if that motor has a temp. (white wire) sensor, probably not. Might be a little hard to know with the 9-pin connector (that's what that motor uses, as most mini's and even middie's do). You don't really need to monitor motor temp. Stop and put your hand on it. If can leave it there, it's fine.
Any how, if I had that motor/whl. needing a build, that's what I would do.
I never have used a Phaserunner, but I'm not sure if I would use a $300 controller on a $60 motor. If you go that route. why not go cheap on the first build (you WILL do more) and see what you like before spending the big bucks? Put the $$ in the batt., it's goes from bike to bike.
As far as budget controllers go, you can go two directions. A sine-wave/diplay w/ 5 "imitation" torque settings is soft -start, has a nice PAS and lot's of stuff to play with for the Techie inclined. But they are weak, not sure if there is anything new, but most of them are a soft 17 Amps. Not too many choices in the 20 to 25 A range. I run a genaric 17A square-wave on my Q100, but it's only a 2 Kg. motor.
Personally, if I lived where you do, I'd run a little, old skol, hot-rod 25 Amp 6-FET Infineon. Ebike CA is out of stk. and Cellman no longer sells them, maybe have Lyen custom program one(set the LVC for what ever pack Voltage you end up with). He has some cool add-ons too.
http://www.lyen.com/
The PAS is a little crude on these older designs, but 3 speed is good enough w/ a 22 MPH top,speed (BTW, you only need 48 Volts to get that).
It might sound counter intuitive to run a stout controller for climbing hills, but think about it this way. The longer you maintain mnomentum, the farther you can get before falling down to that dreaded "half of the no-load top speed", where the motor starts to make more heat than forward motion. Never "lug" a hub motor.
Speaking of hills, if they are only "blocks" long and you can get a good run on it, this set-up will climb really steep hills. It's the long grinds on a hot day that will cause prob.s. And even then, it's more likely going to be melted wires, connectors or controller before the motor melts nthe windings (but I've done it, @ 68 Volts!).
Not sure if that motor has a temp. (white wire) sensor, probably not. Might be a little hard to know with the 9-pin connector (that's what that motor uses, as most mini's and even middie's do). You don't really need to monitor motor temp. Stop and put your hand on it. If can leave it there, it's fine.
Any how, if I had that motor/whl. needing a build, that's what I would do.
